Tim240z

hit the nail on the head!!!

I'm still unsure..... According to all the info I've found on the web (third party stuff...IE: unsure of reliability) is that the Q45 diff is R200VLSD, but according to a member here who works for Nissan USA, it is an R230....So I still don't know. http://www.zilvia.net/installs/lsd/lsdswap.asp So it appears that whoever has a 300ZXTT diff has an R230 for sure....

Well......it appears as though I'm in the vast minority here.....and that's cool....

....I was gonna swear at you again....but...I forgot why....

Hey Mike...F_ _K off!!!

http://www.prothane.com/pages/applications.html

Nope....

Points are well taken, Dan. I did not build this car with any illusions that it would be a daily driver. Also, just because it isn't a "Daily Driver", doesn't mean I don't drive it..... I built this car more as an education than anything else. I had very little bodywork/paint experience before this car. For this reason, I went completely overboard on the body mods. I only paid $300 for the car originally, so if I screwed it up...oh well. I don't think I screwed it up. Granted, the project did snowball....and the "while I'm at it Syndrome" was rampant, but I was well aware of this while I was building the car, so I wasn't surprised at anything when it was done. I never ever intended it to be a daily driver, but again an education tool. I think my knowledge and experience when it comes to bodywork is to the point where no project will ever scare me off....thus my new 1940 Chevy project. The drivetrain in the Z is stock (Z28) and tame also. I would have no problems driving this car anywhere (from a reliability standpoint), and can light up the tires through 3rd gear with ease...... It comes down to buiding what you want, and wanting what you build. I love driving the Z, but without AC, heater, stereo etc (by design), I would rather drive the unmolested 94 Z28 everyday, and it makes me appreciate the 'Goose even more on the weekends. I feel it far from being the "ultimate" Z, but rather a nice one. I also knew that after spending two years doing bodywork (all myself!!!), I would feel timid to drive it. Maybe if I had just sent it to a bodyshop and paid to have it done by a Pro, then I wouldn't be so cautious, but........ Well...that's my story and I'm sticking to it! Tim

Centerline Fluted Star 16 x 8 Tim

With the paint and body soo perfect, I hate to drive her a lot. It is also not a very practical daily driver with the racing seats, roll cage, 5 point harnesses, 300lb coil springs etc...... Tim

She's a garage queen

Yes....the earlier Zs had the reverse light as part of the main tail light, whereas the later ones had the reverse light seperated and located inboard of the main tail light.... Tim

It's been up for sale a couple of times before. I still don't understand how it can be a 1971 with those tail lights......

I don't know the part number, but it is the 'plain jane' one for the 280z (I wanted to delete the signal lights on my 240). I also made a couple of mods to it. Tim

Here is another decent resource: http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/12/b2/67/0900823d8012b267.jsp

Yup definitely giving me the 'willys' too! I'd love to take that little thing for a test drive....

That one is for an LT1 engine.....I'm just using the intake from an LT1, the bottom end is old school (71 truck)

Go to Waytekwire.com and order a catalogue.

If your gauges are electric (as opposed to mechanical), then there will be 3 terminals on the back.... 1 for ground (-ve) 1 for 12V (+ve) 1 for the wire from the sender unit If you are putting in a volt gauge, I would wire that one seperately (with slightly heavier gauge wire)...the others I would run a 14 gauge wire to a terminal block, then tap all the other positive gauge wires from that with 20-22 gauge wire.

They use very little power, so any ignition positive will do. Be carefull not to apply 12V power to the sender terminal on the gauge. Tim

Awwww Bill, don't give up. Just take the bearing caps off (mains and big ends) and plastigauge them to check the clearances. It may be as easy as just getting another set of bearings. Or at most, just pull the crank, have reground to new oversize bearings, recheck clearances and put back together.....

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/allinone.pdf