Tim240z

Yes...but only one thing at a time.....

For information purposes: Wheel Terminology: How to measure PCDs: How to measure backspacing: Offset:

Amen Brutha!!

Thanks Kevin!! (and Davy!). I guess since I get Edelbrock stuff at wholesale, the decision is easy!! I will keep the compression down to about 9.0-9.5:1 max for increased torque and reliability and lower temps......

1" = 25.4mm

I know, I know...not another "what heads should I buy" question, but here goes anyways: This will go into my 40 Chevy: I have a 71 4 bolt '010' block from my truck. I believe that the engine is unmolested. I want to build a mild high torque, lower range RPM engine, with good reliability and fuel economy. The engine will likely not ever see over 4k RPM, at least not for long. This will be a cruiser with a 200 4R. On the other hand I don't want it to be a complete dog either. I am running Vortec heads on the truck now and love them, but I can't use the Vortecs with the LT1 intake (which I am converting to run a rear mount distributor). I will be using the injectors and running MegaSquirt (which I have already built and bench tested) to run the injectors. I was leaning towards the generic and ubiquitous Edelbrock performer heads, but maybe there is a better choice. Obviously, considering the above requirements, I don't want heads with huge ports, and they will need to be compatable with the LT1 intake ports (which the Vortecs, and some others **see below** are not). Thanks..... Tim From the LT1intake.com site:

Yeah...17" rims would be more than adequate, and likely less than 1/2 the cost. Tim

What is curious to me is that they are leaving out all the accessories, like stereo etc to save $$, but then they have the thing rolling on huge wheels....which are just unnecessary and look silly on such a small car.....

http://www.thewebnewsroom.com/news/features/police-car-hemi.shtml

Dude!! Chill out...you only posted a few hours ago......we aren't all waiting with baited breath for you to ask a question so that we can answer it. Problem is, most people paint their cars themselves (like me), or have contacts that they personally use, or go the cheap route (1 day apint and body, or Earl Sheib). Do some leg work and visit some shops and look at the work they do. Get some customer references etc.etc.. Tim

I've taken measurements on both cars and it appears that the Jag XJ front and rear suspension will fit nicely! I am going to pick them up next weekend at the JY (sale day) and see how it all works. On paper (literally) it looks like it will be perfect. Both front and rear suspension units on the Jag are self contained units that bolt in, so it should be fairly easy (famous last words!!).... Now if the construction guys would hurry up and finish my house addition, I can move the old Chevy back to my driveway!!! Tim

Right on, John!! Good advise to be sure. I have a small 1 pounder in each vehicle and a 5 pounder in the garage, and another 5 pounder in the kitchen, and we all (even my 4 year old) know how to use them. Ya know, insurance can cover the damage, but the inconvenience just is not worth it. One day when I'm all growed up, I would like a halon system in the garage!!! Tim

Hey Mat....somehow it is not surprising that your family gathering involved copious quanitites of alcohol!! I guess your Pops is officially one of the 4th of July stats.... Hope he heals up ok.... Tim

Looks like a 2 Z family! Good luck with the conversion! Looks familiar....my z was that same avocado green inside....

The starter will engage when shorting the 2 terminals to the main power terminal. That's what is making me lean towards the ignition switch. It has a master plug going to it, so it will be very easy to disconnect the switch and jumper the terminals in the plug as a test..... Tim

While I agree that its worth looking at, I find it wierd that the starter makes absolutely no noise when not hooked to the booster....I would have thought that it would at a minimum click, or tick or something.....I'm leaning to the ignition switch a bit more, but I will have to wait for my neighbor to get home (he works wierd hours--fireman)

Everything has been cleaned 'til spotless! I'm starting to think that it is either a corroded solenoid on the starter, or a lot of resistance in the ignition switch...

Simple google search: http://www.multimeterwarehouse.com/usingamultimeter.htm http://www.doctronics.co.uk/meter.htm http://techrepublic.com.com/5100-6255-1053275.html http://zone.ni.com/devzone/conceptd.nsf/webmain/D902E80AE80E87EA86256E0D007D4852 and on and on and on and on......

Guys...take it offline....you have hijacked the dudes thread!

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/315767/1

The adapter is just a way to adapt the slave to another non-oem hydraulic line. I made my own and am running the OEM slave. I actually just spent the day re-doing my driver's side header and exhaust. I bought some 3" round to oval tubing from Dr. Gas so now I have much better ground clearance! Tim

The battery is brand new, as of yesterday. I pulled the battery out of my truck, and tried that one, same thing! Tim

I've tried it both ways, negative of the charger to the block and to the post. The battery is putting out 12.68 volts, but i don't know if it is able to load or not. Tim

My neighbour has a 66 Chevy truck with a 283V8. I just gave it a complete tune up...plugs, points, condensor, coil, filters, timing etc etc...but an ongoing problem has been starting it: When turning the key to the "start" position, nothing happens...absolutely nothing...no clicking, whining or anything from the starter (which is fairly new). The battery is also brand new. But...if I hook up the quick charger to it, it fires right up and purrs like a kitten (thanks to my wonderful tuning ) I checked all the connections and cleaned (sand paper &/or wire brush), sprayed all the connections with electrical cleaner....all the usual stuff...... I just don't understand...if it was the ignition switch, it wouldn't fire at all, even with the booster, right? When it is running the alternator is charging at ~14 volts (at about 1500RPM). What could it be? Tim

Did they load test it?