RB26powered74zcar

You can not cut the glass on a Z car, except for the front windshield!!

I just barely got up and running with my new Tec3r. I'm using the default start up enrich at this point, and it takes throttle to start right now. It is getting better though, as I do some VE table tuning...

I think he meant to say, make dam sure not to use a Supra for the 2JZ..... put it in a Z !!

Oh what a feeling Sounds knarly!

Man that RB Z car $hit$ and gitt$...... Nice job !!

Bryan, are you by any chance going to flow test the RB26dett head You bought off me (before/after any mods)? I'd like to see flow numbers from a trusted source...

Seller just confirmed to me these rods are made by same producer as Eagle. I have nothing against Seller or Eagle, I'm just passing this info on....

He shows a pic of a Carillo but says rods your buying arn't shown.... hmmm. I think I'd rather buy what I can see... Price is cheap. Might be a deal....

Thats a serious vid? I thought it was one of those clowning around vids.... What the heck s going on there.... please enlighten me....

I think you are thinking of the Tomei pump. Tomei has a external adjuster for spring rate change. My Jun pump looked like all the others, except Tomei, with the oil pressure adjuster, non accessible, once the oil pan is installed....

They are the same... btw, can I buy the brake booster off of your 2+2 parts car please

11.6 qtr mile is pretty good...

Looks like the blank indents are there though, ready to drill and tap... (?)

There is a BIG difference from what I've seen posted in pictures on line. OEM manifold: Gready knock off:

I like this one too. http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k44451974

Wow, thats one helava sentence.... Please try some punctuation, you may get a response that way.

Awesome job Dave !!! Thank You for taking the time, and putting the effort in the nice diagrams. Major props to You my friend !!

Sorry to hear that.

Best Holiday wishes to all my Z car brethren out there. Stay safe. To Those having to spend this time over seas protecting us here at home, THANK YOU and stay safe.

Before... L6 After... rb26

Thats the kind I'm saving my penny's up to buy. I need a cover that fits like a skin. I had a brand new pair like the black/gray ones, but they were to thick to work in my tight space, so I ebayed them. I really like the ATP covers, and believe they will out last/ perform the soft type covers.

^^ Excellent!!

Wowza Gabe... thats one pristine looking engine! Your right about having the hook up, that valve cover is awesome!!

Funny you bring that up.... I just purchased one of those off ebay (since I had already sold mine) so I could do the same thing you just did... Your right, it makes the motor look so much cleaner.... BTW, I see where you marked on the plenum for vacuum sources, I'd not put them up on the top like you have marked.... might as well make it look nice. I'd put them facing the water tank, or even underneath on the bottom. I've seen plenum's where the plumb in for a vacuum source up top side and it looks like pooh to me... (just my opinion) What did you mount it to? Are you going to use a CAS this time around? Things sure are looking good Stony... bet you can't wait, huh??

That is exactly whats giving me hell right now with my Q45 TB. I can't for the life of me get it to idle correctly. If I adjust the idle to where it will stay running while cold, when it warms up, it won't idle. If I adjust the idle while warm, it dies when cold. I just now noticed that water pipe thermostat circuit used for idle adjustment while cold/hot. Problem is, I deleted the OEM water lines that I could have used to feed the warm up circuit on the TB. Has anybody went ahead and removed that warm up circuit lever from the TB ? It will come right off with the removal of its retaining bracket. Then, there would be nothing to alter the idle on the TB except the idle screw. I think whats happening now on my set up is, I don't have hot water flowing thru the TB to activate the fast idle thermostat circuit, but I think even though, the engine bay heat, with heat soak is heating up that thermostat enough to raise and lower the idle anyways. Thats why I can't keep a steady idle lever position. Its getting enough heat soak to operate the lever plunger, even though no hot water is connected. I need to remove all of the water controlled idle components, so it will at least not have that variable to deal with.... Anyone delt with this before??