hughdogz

I believe the impetus behind this post is because in the PDX area, there has been a recent rash of injector failures on Z31's and Z32's. If a new ethanol formulation (in conventional pump gas) truly tears apart the inside of the rubber FI hoses, then the hoses must be replaced to a ethanol-tolerant type as well as having to replace or repair the injectors. I'm interested to know the answer too. Replacing all the hoses now would definately be cheaper (and easier) than having to replace the injectors again and again.

Good point John. I think you're right...I'll keep a lookout for a 1.5 way. Thanks! -Hugh

I've sold my virginity on ebay twice now. The second time it was half price.

Daeron, you wouldn't believe what has been going on in the PDX craigslist lately: A guy tried selling an infant baby on CL and was quickly arrested Two people burglarized someone's house and made a spoof CL posting that everything in the guy's house was free to take (to "cover" their tracks!, lol)

I've been busy but I don't seem to be getting very far. All I can think about is getting ready for the cruise to SoCal for MSA 2008! There has only been a few dry days in the past month or so for me to street tune. I still have a long way to go in troubleshooting / configuration / tuning before I'll be happy with going on a long road trip. I bet it would make it down there as-is, but it wouldn't be sipping the gas... Tires are on order, hopefully I'll have the wheels mounted this week Installing the LC1 didn't go too bad, except they forgot to include a 2.5mm patch cable, so I can't hook up to the LMA-3 yet. D'oh! I connected a type-k quick response thermocouple to the LMA-3, but I haven't mounted it in the exhaust yet. I still have to figure out if I want to ditch my Autometer EGT gage and go with an Innovate XD-1 (expensive), or could I mount two probes when I install a spacer & the new turbo...hmm. Silicone vacuum lines near the hot turbine / exhaust manifold have been covered in Taylor 1200 degree F sheathing Bought a Garmin GPS navigation unit that will give me accurate highway speeds. I also have a 16GB SD flash memory card so I can play a few MP3's along the way Well, here are some pics so you know what I'm talking about... LC1 installed: Here is a switch (with LED indicator) I assembled used for triggering a free air calibration of the Bosch LSU 4.2 wideband O2 sensor: Here are my sensor connectors that I have disconnected. Normally, they are hidden behind all the intercooler piping. (Clockwise from bottom left: Intake air temp sensor, throttle position sensor, crank angle sensor, coolant temp (dash gage), idle air controller. Here's that high temp Taylor sheathing I had to use since the silicone might melt if the turbo gets red-hot: See what I mean? I'm also still having trouble with noise in the crank angle sensor above 4500 RPM. I already tried shielding the wires, drilling a new chopper wheel for the hall-effect optical sensor, but no improvement. Maybe I'll have to try better shielding than aluminum foil and a jumper wire! There's a ton more wiring now behind the glove box, since I added the LC1 without an XD-1. I'll take more pics later when I get my hands on a patch cable to finish the job! :rolleyesg:icon50: -hughdogz

So this will fit my ZXT R200 longnose with CV axles? [Edit: I guess there's only one way to find out for sure...]

Ahhh...yeah, that's what happened to me too (the first time). So I got another Wolf V500 unit. I found a new method to get it out of the cardboard box: Important steps: Bake the box (as recieved) in an oven at 550 degrees F for approximately 24-48 hours. Have a bucket of ~28 degrees F ice water nearby (use generous amounts of salt to decrease the melting point) After removing from the oven, IMMEDIATELY quench the box and contents below the surface of the water. Use bricks as necessary to keep it below the surface. (You may witness large amounts of steam and "crackling noises" coming from inside the box, this is normal) Let the box soak in the salt water for 2-3 days (The cardboard should fall right off after the 3rd day) Apply generous amounts of di-electric grease to the connector pins ensuring you get plenty of contact resistance, if the salt didn't coat the pins adequately If this doesn't work, contact your authorized Wolf dealer and ask for a free replacement. Good Luck! -hughdogz

http://stealthmodeperformance.com/oil.shtml Yeah! Bo hit the jackpot! Arigato!

Whoo Hoo!! Thanks Austin, this gives us a lot of options. Cheers! -hughdogz

Thanks MJ! I'll have to check that out myself. I haven't done too much research in this area yet. I'm assuming that the stock oil restrictor is housed in the Tee for the oil pressure sending unit. Since the stock oil line uses a compression fitting, it is probably not NPT treads, so a 1/8" (or 1/4") NPT to -3 or -4 AN fitting may not work with the stock tee. To use an AN oil line, I think it would be easiset to get a different tee fitting that can accomodate 1/8" (or 1/4") NPT's. Am I totally off base? Ehh...I probably just have to search archives to find out for sure. Thanks again, -Hugh [Edit: I meant to say flare nut fitting, not compression fitting. I need to use the correct terminology, right? Sorry about that...]

Hi Austin, I'm going to have to go the AN route soon myself. So the reason being for the oil restrictor is so that you don't "rob" the engine of oil, diverting too much of it to the turbo? I'll check if ATP sells these oil restrictors...Thanks! -hughdogz

Okay, I'm guessing the differential. If this isn't it, I'm done guessing.

Elvis costume? [Edit: Hmmm...flywheel?]

I remember back in my myspace days, that guy was my buddie Stevosupremo. He has two sic Z's...

Are you referring to Gasoline prices or your products? (j/k Dave).

^^^ Man, I'm falling behind the times. I have no idea what the heck AWHFY BF???? means.

Holy ****! That site you made is AWESOME Chris. I'm going to have to do some serious reading tonight...Thanks!

It's not in the middle since an 8" rim is 8" from inside to inside, where the tire mounts. But overall width is 9" when you include the thicknesses of the mounting lip (outside to outside). (8"+1")/2 = 4.5 inches, this is the centerline of the wheel (going from the outside). It it was zero offset, then the backspace would be 4.5 inches. Since they are -12 offset, the mounting face is inward 12mm (~1/2") from the centerline. That is how it is 4" backspacing. I hope this helped...

*Bump* Okay, come on guys...I know there are a lot members who know much more about IC design than me that could contribute to the discussion. I would like to know if any of my comments were wrong. Anyone? *crickets chirping*

yay!! happy birthday Big-Phil!! 1972 was a great year since we were both born then, lol.

Okay, I think I know why I was so confused. When you create a thread in one of the "conventional" forums, even the the advanced edit capabilites are limited. But, when you edit your project page thread, you have more options since you are kind of the admin to your project thread. i.e. delete post is an option That's probably why I see the delete post option in the advanced options sometimes but not others. Over a year has gone by of me being a member and I still haven't figured out all the in's and out's yet. *you guys crack me up*

Prox, don't tell me you haven't seen Monzter's exhaust manifold yet? I saw that (a year ago?) and realized this guy is MEGA serious!!

Whoo hoo! Good sleuthing...congrats Lukaniuk!

Another great post, but I don't get it, lol. Is this result opposite to what was in Maximum Boost? Their plots showed maximum flowrate occured at the far end of the inlet end tank, where your lower velocities are. With your plots, high velocity should be high flowrate since mass flow rate = (density * velocity * area) assuming 20 psi across the entire end tank. For a larger intercooler core pros, you have higher thermal capacity. This has the benefits of resistance to heat soak since it would take more heat to change the average temperature. Plus it has a larger frontal area for more cooling area to be available. Generally speaking of course...as you've just shown it also depends on the IC efficiency. I'm sure you already know a heat exchanger efficiency is a measure of the ability to change incoming air to ambient (and how little the pressure will drop). The only thing I can come up with for cons are perhaps packaging and blocking cooling air to the radiator. I'm curious if there is generally a bigger pressure drop. Definitely more volume to pressurize, but I don't know if this will be noticeable in increased "turbo lag". Even with a bigger IC, mass flow rate is the same in or out. If you can modify the end tank to straighten, distribute and direct the flow evenly, it seems you're increasing the flow and thus efficiency of the IC and getting the larger frontal area too! If you get a couple more psi drop you can crank up the boost to compensate, as long as you're not already maxing out the compressor efficiency.

*snaps fingers* damn I missed it! (whatever happened) LOL!