hughdogz

That's what I've been thinking too, Nigel. If I go with a one-way check-valve MBC (or PWM solenoid) I won't have the above options. Using a boost controller with the wastegate means there is no way to get vacuum to pull the actuator shut to have the boost come on harder. Mechanical versus electrical (analog versus digital)

Are you guys using Nissan OEM "graphfoil" gaskets or Fail-Pro type ones?

^^^ That's why they ship a special two-inch hack-saw with the kit! Did you not receive one of those too?! (j/k guys) Pretty much anything may need to be customized that isn't OEM. Hope for the best, prepare for the worst...that's what I say Mod the mods...that what it boils down to sometimes

Haha!! I got denied buying beer or entering a pub quite a few times before I turned 21. Then on my 21st b-day, I didn't even try to buy beer or enter a pub. It wasn't a challenge after that.

Ahh...that's going to be tight!!

It think this project is coming out totally awesome myself. So I take it you're going with an internally waste-gated setup?

Can't you just move the cat rearward the two inches? The cat doesn't have any mounting tabs (hangers). Perhaps they designed it this way...bolt the cat to the header, then bolt the pipe to the cat, etc...

Yay!! Happy 21st Birthday Skib!! I'll buy you a beer next time we're at the racetrack (after we're done racing, of course)

^^^ Cool! Thanks Guys, keep the conversation going...this is interesting stuff.

I stop tuning when the tweak makes it run worse! After which I revert back to the previous tune.

I got mine from here: http://www.motorsport-tech.com/ They are the only outfit I could find where they GUARANTEE they won't break!

I think you're right. The far left looks like it bolts after the cat. The second to the left looks like it goes under the axle. Third one over the rear crossmember. Some early ZX's have the exhaust cross over to the passenger side, so the last one may (or may not) be needed after the muffler.

I hope you purchased the 0-1800F one. I tried the 1600F one and after sustained periods over 1600F, it is stuck there

Didn't get much further tonight, but at least I'm pretty sure the oil feed and drain lines will fit. Not sure if I'm going to go through with the oil cooler yet, but I wanted to test fit the sandwich plate and fittings... Back to oil filter service tomorrow to pick up some more AN fittings for the head cooling lines. I also need to get various fasteners at Parkrose hardware soon. At this rate, I'll never have it ready for Canby this weekend I'll see how much further I can get tonight.

All this is great information!! Many thanks Tony et al. Now I just have to purchase (or fabricate) a wastegate actuator bracket. I'm probably going to go with a Forge Motorsport actuator where you can swap out the preload spring.

Ron, that was one of my most favorite car rides EVER!! I've never been very scared as a passenger, but when you took me down Ten Eyk road that one time, I about pee'ed my pants!! Nice linear acceleration, and insane grip.

I thought of this, but then you'd get all the pressure drop from the IC tubing and intercooler (perhaps a couple psi below compressor pressure). Plus, when the throttle body is closed between shifts, you're not getting the "surge pressure" before my recirculation valve opens (not that that should be an issue). That's what I was thinking, and will probably go this route. I appreciate the feedback Guys!

Hi Guys, My compressor didn't come with a wastegate actuator signal port. Should I just tap one (the wall is kind of thin)? Do I need to weld a bung? Do I need two ports like the stock one that "y" together? Thanks! -hughdogz

I'm no expert, but my friend Bryan had Oregon driveline weld rzeppa joints to the pathfinder axles to install the R32 Nismo LSD. The guy said that two tripods won't work I still want to try getting some tripod bearings out of an AMC Eagle 4x4. I found one in Washington but they want ~$100.

ARP Studs... -hughdogz

Hi PhilbertZ, From Guy 80LT1's S130 T/C rod build thread: Link to Dime Quarterly article about drilling the poly (thanks zcarnut): http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_tcrod.html -hughdogz

Uh-oh, that is a recipie for disaster! You don't want two poly-bushings for T/C rods! You have to keep at least one OEM, or else there is a trick of drilling holes the the poly one. Reason being is that most of the flex is now taken out of the bushing and transferred to the rod. Fatigue will ensue in a short time. Otherwise, Awesome Job!! Hope this helps, -hughdogz