hughdogz

Happy B-Day Frank!! :mparty: (Gelukkig verjaardag openhartig)

Hehe!! The girl's hand is greasier than yours Phleb!

S130 > S30 That means S130's weigh more? (j/k)

Hi Markham, I'd upgrade to LW 3.0 for sure, just for the template manager alone. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support.php

What's a lurker, and what does this have to do with light bulbs?

There's a little box in the engine bay (I think on the passenger side) that says boost sensor. It has a small pigtail for the wiring and taps into a vacuum line. It should read zero without the engine running and show full vacuum at idle. The stock unit isn't all that great anyway. You'd be better off with an aftermarket mechanical vac / boost gage like Skib mentioned.

I'm not sure...I just work with old Datsuns!! I think Z32's use a CAS mounted on the cam, but I wouldn't exactly call them modern anymore...we're up to Z34's now. But, the more I think about it, not only is the extra gear a potential issue, but for one engine cycle, you can measure 720 degrees of crank timing while only having 360 degrees of cam timing available. All else equal, there is 2x the resolution for a crank mounted sensor. Sometimes you need both. Unless you're building a super-duper motor for racing, the distributor CAS will do for street use and is already there...otherwise you'll have to deal with mounting a CAS which is probably not that difficult. Again, the hard part is configuring the ECU to your application. There are just as many "nuts and bolts" electronically as there are physically. I hope you have good tech support or else be able to use someone else's configuration if they are so kind to share it...I couldn't have configured the Wolf myself (without Ron and KTM's help).

That color reminds me of Mike Hintz's 280ZX "Butternut" (aka Parkay)

...not as successful as their first attempt... Roto-hammer in the arse

Please allow me to clarify myself. In a four-stroke motor, for all the cylinders to fire the crank has to undergo two revolutions, while the camshaft (and distributor rotor) goes around just one time. Since the CAS in the distributor (and camshaft) rotates only once, while the crankshaft rotates twice I believe it is a cam angle sensor. If you want to classify a sensor based upon how it is physically connected rather than what it is measuring, you could call a speedometer a crank angle sensor!! The crank-shaft connects to the flywheel, flywheel connected to the clutch => transmission => speedo cog => speedo cable => speedo.

No, just the cam angle. It measures the crank angle indirectly, but the resolution is "lower" since it is geared 1:2 to the crank angle. Also, since there is some inherent "slop" or backlash in the gear, a crank mounted sensor is superior in high-RPMs. I've heard you can get too much "bounce" with the CAS in the distributor. That sounds like a really awesome system you have there.

Hi Markham, I just went through the same thing. Luckily, some of my old datalogs still have the user-defined fuel calculation charts embedded in them. The way I set them up is: Horizontal axis: 0-7000 RPM using 29 steps Vertical axis: 0-43.5 psi using 16 steps This should match the Wolf if using 250 RPM increments, otherwise you can adjust the horizontal axis steps accordingly. Hope this helps, -hughdogz [Edit: If you still have one of your LW2 maps, open it up. Then, go to your template manager. Click on the "file" templates and save it as a generic template. Now, when you start a new chart / session you can use the saved (generic) template from LW2. This will save you from having to create a new template in LW3.]

Was it a stock S30? That's moving!!

Disclaimer: I've only tuned using a Wolf3D V500, so my EMS experience is limited. I think they are compatible. Not sure if it is an "upgrade" or not. There are slits in the "chopper wheel" and there is an optical sensor that can read them. The CAS can only tell the ems what position the Crank / Cam angle is. It is up to the EMS to drive the coils. It is up to the user to configure it how they want (wasted spark, sequential, etc). You also need to know if the EMS has some build-in igniters of if they only send a logic signal. If they only send logic, then you need igniters integral to the coil(s) or somehow run separate igniters. You can probably configure it to run using the stock coil / distributor / igniter if you want. Yes. Not to be harsh, but these are very basic questions that you should know (research) before tackling an EMS install. The "C" in CAS can mean either crank or cam. In the '82-'83 L28ET the CAS is connected to the distributor shaft, and the distributor shaft is geared 1:2 with the crank shaft, it will indicate the cam angle. However, the '81 L28ET has a crank angle sensor. Not sure, but that "bang-bang" system is hard on your turbos. I know 510Six has set up a nitrous spool-up system for launching, but I don't think it is like the Rally cars have anti-lag where it is also used between shifts. Hope this helps and read, read, read!! (you're in for a lot of reading, I know first hand, it's not easy the first time installing an EMS ) There is a lot of information in our engine components forum's sub-forums

I have a book that came from dealerships when they were first introducing the ZX. It mentions extensive wind tunnel testing and explains the Cd (drag coefficient) went from 0.467 for the S30 down to ~0.385. Clf (lift coefficient) went from 0.41 to 0.11 and Cmv (yaw coefficient, how well it handles side-winds) went from 0.10 to 0.04.

Thanks for clearing that up Pete S. I realized that might be the case after I posted. Now I feel like an idiot The S130's Cusco bars don't have any joints at the mounting flange:

Welcome to the ZX Fam-damily No T-tops for the '79's but they are less weight than the previous year's 280z. Lightest weight of the S130's.

I'm probably confused here, but if you weld the strut tower brace to the strut towers, how are you going to remove the cam cover for stuff like adjusting the lash? If you need to remove the engine, you'll have to drop the front crossmember and drop the engine from below. I think it would be difficult at best since you're welding thin gauge steel to WAY thicker gage steel.

The buzzing noise you hear is because I didn't bother taking off the cardboard off the radiator and the fan is hitting it.

No one has mentioned Amsoil filters yet, they claim to be better than K&N: http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/eaa.aspx

Huh. That's a trip Jeffer...with my Greddy Profec B Spec-II it is open, but my GM-style is closed. More reason to go with the Profec I'm controlling the GM-style one with the Wolf. I know I can flip the polarity via the interface, but I don't think that will change the solonoid position.

^^^ that's a badass 280ZX G-Nose that Justin is making. I checked out Bleach's ride at the Canby show, and the quality of the item is awesome (in my opinion). I think lens covers will make it look even better! There is no gap with the hood either.

I haven't actually started my car yet, but I upgraded to a T3/T04E and I'm going to use the "Ultimate Internal Wastegate" from ATP turbos: