hughdogz

Okay, I'm going out on a limb here, since I could get thwaked for not knowing exactly what I'm talking about, but here goes... See the red anodized spacer between the ball joint and the bottom of the strut tube? When you lowered your car by 1-1.5" you changed the roll center. The control arm is now angled closer to horizontal than stock, since the spring is shorter. I believe that where the angles of the control arms intersect is the roll center, which is now lower. What the RCA's do is bring the roll center back up, closer to the stock position. They are sometimes referred to as "bump steer spacers" that will negate the tendency for the wheel to turn weird if you encounter a bump. I bet if you searched, John Coffey or jmortensen would go into intricate detail about it... Hope this helps, and I'm not too far off base.

That makes complete sense John. Since pressure = Force / Area, a larger opening (area) would need a larger force from the actuator to hold the puck shut at the same pressure. Thank you for the correction. [Edit: another good tidbit of info I got from John was sizing the proper wastegate actuator. If the wastegate is sized for say 7psi (stock) it can work well at twice that operating boost pressure (~14 psi). More than that and you may be asking too much of it...I want to get an adj one soon where you can swap out the springs]

Haha!! You guys are cracking me up! All these polishing threads tonight... Yeah, you just wetsand it and then polish it. Or you can use a wire wheel as mentioned in the other thread. It was a PITA with the turbo valve cover, since it is wrinkle painted from the factory. I actually used a paint scraper to get it off, but that was years ago. It would be far easier to have it bead blasted first. I remember reading in a thread that when wheel manufacturers polish their Aluminum rims, they have to get the metal really hot by the friction of the buffing wheel. That requires a lot of HP. I would be great to have a giant floor standing buffing wheel. Or you could spend hours and hours polishing by hand like I did.

^^ I agree 1) The safety pop valve probably can't evacuate that much flow to keep the boost low enough 2) If you're using the factory EFI, then that is metered air escaping so you'll be running way rich in boost Is the turbine housing just missing the internal wastegate housing, or does it have a 3" V-band flange?

Hi Boardkid, I measured the wastegate opening in my (early) Ford-style 5-bolt turbine housing and it is a smidgen over 13/16" diameter. The ATP puck I have is a smidgen under 1 5/16" diameter. So, the overlap is about 1/4" around. I also cleaned up the area where the formed reducer piece meets the flanges: Thanks to BRAAP for suggesting this! I don't know if I have boost creep yet or not...my car is still on jackstands.

I remember that Courtesy Nissan used to sell these but they are NLA... Thanks, -hughdogz

You didn't add oil to the strut cartridge tube to enhance the heat transfer? {Edit: Good writeup Man!! Also, some roll center adjusters might help too. I like the TTT ones myself...}

If I remember right, that was before he went with his divorced wastegate setup. Yeah, let us know how this turns out...

My Haynes manual says: Cylinder Head Bolts..............55 ft-lb or 7.5 m-kg I just got my ARP studs today, and that is 60 ft*lb using their assembly lube. It is interesting, according to their website, ~80% of the torque is used by simply overcoming the friction of the threads...

Ahh...Yes those look a lot different than what I tried to make. I was going by one of these: http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m38.l1313&_nkw=swirl+throttle+body&_sacat=See-All-Categories

Thanks for the input guys! Hi Cygnus, on my next go-around I'm going to try to make the inlet come in parallel to the runners (like an RB25). Also, I'd like to revisit Helix's guide / diverter idea, extending them almost to the runner entrances. I could also try closing up the plenum some more, so the flow is forced to have a straight shot to runner six... Here is the turbine blade model (not sure if they are right). I threw in five "swirl-ators". I just went by some crappy pics of swirl effect throttle bodies off Ebay. I'm not sure they were much help, what do you think? Sure! That shouldn't be too difficult to do. Pics and general measurements would work great.

I live less than a mile from you! (30th and Barbur) I can't remember his name right now, but there is a guy that Kurzals and I use that has a shop right off Cameron (near Beaverton-Hillsdale highway) that does super-good work too. Mostly V-8 stuff though, but he has a flow bench, all that stuff... If you want head work done, I'd recommend Paul Ruschman in Sandy, OR. Ron Tyler is really knowledgeable in engine management stuff too. If you're doing simple stuff, like pressing out this or that, drilling and tapping, then any Napa can do it. Come to our next Northwestz meeting! -hughdogz

This might be taking a step back, but it was intersting anyway...

Or you can buy their O2 bung extender, but I agree the copper sheet is probably the way to go. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16148&cat=250&page=1 If the sensor is outside the operating temperature range, an error reading will result instead of giving the incorrect AFR.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___batman-BatSmart-Car-Dark-Night-Joker-Heath-Ledger_W0QQitemZ250388791361QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item250388791361&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A317|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1308

Those instructions for for a SBC kind of engine though...not like a Nissan one with a keyway? [Edit: I was wrong about there not being keyways on the SBC snouts...but the instructions really don't say anything about their Nissan dampers]

Shouldn't that be under? You still want it to be a tight fit. I remember having the same issues and Tony D suggested about three to eight tenths of a thousandth interference: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123520&highlight=damper (see post 28) I'm planning on re-trying my damper install (hopefully by this weekend) now that I have my hood, IC and radiator out of the way. Good luck and let us know if you had to get it honed or not.

Here is rev 4: I think I should make the taper less and adjust the inlet angle more towards the "back wall". Also, I'll try using a straight section instead of a curved one. I really need my 64-bit workstation. Doing this on a 32-bit laptop with 3GB RAM really limits what you can do...

^^ Must be Civil Engineering, since Computer Science is CS, but maybe there is a CE. Keep in mind that ~80% of the ME's are not technical, we do a lot of project management, or sales / marketing. For me, I started off getting a maintenance Engineer internship at the Willy Wonka Candy factory (believe it or not). I did testing of the steam traps, dust collection, I even got to crawl into a sewer on a daily basis. I got to see how they make Nerds, gobstoppers, etc. I got to learn a lot about plant management and packaging too. I also learned a lot by hanging out in the machine shop. The best part was driving the electric fork-trucks around, lol. In case you didn't know, there aren't such things as Oompa-Loopas. They're mostly Mexicans that make the stuff. After I graduated in from UIUC in the midwest, I wanted to return to Portland, even though there were no jobs. I worked for my Dad doing a thermo / heat and mass transfer of a solar distillation device. Next, I got a job as a Design Engineer, doing contract work in CAD. I designed a lot of inspection fixtures for Precision Castparts, whose main customers were for IGT engines like Rolls-Royce, Pratt and Whitney, GE, etc. I would model 2D prints of the turbines into 3D models, then design fixtures with Go / No go gages, X-ray inspection carts, throat gages, etc. Then I'd have to make the detail prints (sometimes well over 100 detail drawings per assembly with inspection sheets for the machine shop CMM guys to make) I'd also design chills and chill-chills for airframe castings, etc. I even got to work on some air intake grill for the F22 or something like that. Also did a lot of CAD for patten shops. I also did a contract with ESCO to reverse engineer in to CAD a giant link of a track for an earth mover...the thing was 2 feet tall, three foot wide and like 5 ft long!! I got laid off from the Design Engineer job (because the owner was a crook), and worked in a plastic injection molding factory where I learned a lot about core & cavity dies, and the whole process. Then I had an opportunity to work at a software company that makes CAD packages as a Quality Engineer. I've worked with modeling, Simulation (dynamic stuff like velocities, accelerations, forces, friction etc. like ADAMS). Now I'm currently doing stress analysis simulation, and getting into CFD, heat / mass transfer, multi-physics and mechanical event simulation. It's pretty cool, but I agree with the others. Being stuck in an office does have it's disadvantages (except for the fact I get to bring my dog in to work with me everyday and wear shorts, t-shirt and flip-flops if I want). Everything is so global now, often times you have to wake up early to work with the folks in Europe, and sometimes stay late working with Asia. Hope this helps...

I'm fairly convinced now that the flow diverters will have to extent to the "swirl zone": Next, I'll try a design that is more compact, like an RB26 or 2jz

Good point. I appreciate the input Nizm0Zed. That is what I'm going to try to do with the next version. I turns out that I didn't have the runner spacing correct, so I had to fix that. Also, I didn't have the right element selected for the boundary layer, for the first runs it takes a lot longer to run with the right one. Ugh...I need a Cray!! The FEA computations are taking too long. ========== [Edit: A little better, but now it looks like I'm generating swirl after the flow hits the "back corner" of the intake]

Hey guys, I'm still working on a design for a custom intake using those group buy flanges. I'm still learning how to use CFD simulation, so it is still a learning experience for me. I want to minimize having to do custom bends, but it looks like I'll have to do something to avoid vorticies, even at such a small velocity. For my first attempt, I just guessed on the boundary conditions, 200 mm/s fixed velocity at the outlets, and the inlet is "free". After reading MONZTER's thread, he was getting ~4000 mm/s and I want half the HP (flow) as him, so Im re-runing it again at 2000 mm/s. Here is the CAD model, to do a CFD I have to model the inside (which is kind of wierd but that's the way it works). The simulation has 30 time steps, to ramp up the flow and give the solver an easy time at converging. Here is zero velocity at time step 0: Velocity contours at full speed: Here you can see the big vortices / swirl that I need to get rid of (the big one and the one near the first runner): I re-ran the model at 2000 mm/s and it is about the same. 2 & 3 are the only ones getting a good shot of the flow.: ]

http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/5771873/description.html