hughdogz

The coil wiring harness looks Awesome too!!

I believe that is the idle adjustment screw. Back it out to see if it raises the idle to ~850 RPM.

I'd say #'s 1&3 pistons are Ghandi. It looks like the pistons melted and chunks broke off... How do the valves and valve seats look? Are the 1&3 and the combustion chambers messed up?

Makes me squirm when I see not only a cellphone, but a little yapper dog on their lap or steering wheel! How do they even turn the wheel? I'm not sure if I recall correctly, but I think one time I saw cell phone + yapper dog + smoking a cigarette.

I was thinking the exact same thing. I was thinking of getting some small diameter wire rope from home depot, and hook "eyes". Maybe even get some crims to make loops at the ends of the wire ropes. We could definitely consider using a guitar string that is ~0.009" diameter, but those aren't that long and may not "swing" as long as longer wires... I'm going to hang mine in the garage (not my living room). I only need to make one mark for zero, and one mark for ~10 degrees and I can probably use a thumbtack. We can probably "normalize" any difference in size / weight of the plate by subtracting the empty plate time from the time recorded with an object. I've never seen one of these made or in operation either...but in theory it should work great. I really want to try this design and I think it is the best so far. Plus, Tony D's or Cygnusx's ideas don't involve "a laser"

1.2 meellion yen 入札はこちら

Unless you're Maverick and need to brake check "the enemy" why play around like that?

I'm not sure if my verbal description was enough, so I tried making a model first. Since we usually have 8 foot ceilings, I think 7 ft would be a good number. I'm also trying a Dynamic Simulation to see if I can actually get some decent results / numbers to see if it will work. I know, those hanging "eyes" are overkill, but I had them handy. I was thinking in order to calibrate it, or to calculate a know PMOI, I could simply get a five-gallon bucket and fill it with sand. Knowing the dimensions and mass, I can calculate the PMOI. Then I can record the time it takes to come to a standstill. Then record the time 1/4 full of sand, and probably be able to interpolate the PMOI for the flywheels / clutches. I think Tony D might be referring to the springs shown here in a typical clutch friction disk: {Edit: Doh! Tony, beat me to it. LOL!} {Edit_2: Now that I think about it, if we made the base big enough, we could measure the PMOI of rims too! }

There are two basic types of wheels: 1) Hub centric (the hub centers the wheel) 2) Lug centric (the lugs center the wheel) I know for sure that '70-'83 Z's are lug centric. Is it possible your wheels are hub-centric?

^^ that sounds more like "real-life" loading. That's thinking with your dip-stick Cygnus!! (of course hehe!) I came up with a refinement to a PMOI inspection fixture design, to better measure the time it takes to return to a standstill. Mount a laser underneath the tribulum disk at zero degrees (horizontally). With it at a standstill, mark the wall where the laser is pointing at zero degrees. If it stays within a certain range (distance) of the mark as it winds down, stop the time. Of course, the laser measurement would be more accurate the further away from the wall you have the 'trib! Measure the angle of twist by mounting another laser (vertically) at either the floor or ceiling at ten degrees... Now I'm thinking of making one, to measure the difference between a stock 240mm flywheel versus a SPEC. And the stock clutch versus a Centerforce DF. I have quite a few to experiment with. I'd need a baseline using a circular disk (Iron, steel or Aluminum) to get good number to start with. It would be great to get another piece (of equal mass) that is a ring-shape. The PMOI can be determined for each by known theory. We can find the PMOI's of the flywheels / clutches by interpolating (or extrapolating) the times of the known one(s). If it works, we could share the results by shipping or sharing the plans for the simple fixture...just a thought

Hi Guys, I wasn't kidding when I mentioned a non-destructive way of measuring the polar moment of inertia using a "tribulum". It is like a pendulum, but instead of just a mass on a string, it is three strings. Imagine you have a circular piece of plywood. Then mount three eyes 120 degrees apart near the outside. Then take three pieces of wire to hang the plate to a ceiling, keeping the wires vertical. Then place the flywheel / clutch exactly in the center. Now you have a tribulum. Twist the tribulum say ten degrees. The amount of time it would take to return to a standstill would indicate the polar moment of inertia (integral of R^2 dM) For a circular plate / uniform disk, it would be (mass * radius^2)/2. There may be a better way to do it, and I might be able to come up with the energy equation to actually get a number in kg*mm^2 or pound_mass*in^2 from the angle of twist and time.

Awesome!!

It would be great if someone could set up a "tribulum" so that we can actually measure the PMOI for all the flywheels and clutches out there!

It has been awhile since I took a fluid dynamics course in College (~1996) but this is what I can remember... All else being equal, the mass flow rate through a pipe is m_dot = rho * V * A (rho = density, V = velocity, A = cross-sectional area). Due to the conservation of mass, it doesn't matter what diameter pipe you have, they will both flow the same CFM (mass in = mass out). But as you mentioned, the dynamic pressure drop will probably be greater for a smaller pipe, depending on the Reynolds number (whether it is turbulent flow or laminar, friction causing the turbulence). To illustrate this point, say that you have a reducer going from 3" to 2". The mass flow rate will be the same, but since the cross-sectional area decreased, the velocity has to increase. Since the velocity has increased, the dynamic pressure has increased, while static pressure decreased (total pressure being the same = Bernoulli's principle). When in boost, I'm pretty sure that the flow will be turbulent, to make sure, you can calculate the Reynolds number using V*D/nu (V = velocity, D = pipe diameter, nu = kinematic viscosity). You can check if the flow is in the turbulent region or not, using the moody diagram. On average, transition to turbulence will occur at a Re > ~2300. It will depend on the diameter of pipe, velocity, pipe roughness, etc. Moody diagram explained by Wiki: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moody_chart More Moody info: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/moody-diagram-d_618.html Moody friction factor calculator: http://www.lmnoeng.com/moody.htm Pressure (head) loss depends on fittings / bends, you can add the "K-factors" for the bends / elbows. This will determine the equivalent length of the head (pressure) loss for fittings and elbows, as Sho-z already mentioned. They go into a detailed example here: http://www.cheresources.com/eqlength.shtml To calculate the head loss due to friction through a straight section of pipe, you can use the Darcy equation using the friction factor from the Moody diagram: You can also take calculate (seperatly) the static and dynamic pressure changes as well, using Bernoulli's equation. Like you said, it is a tradeoff, and will ultimately depend on your HP (flow) goals to choose the proper diameter tubing. Hope this helped... For recording the boost pressure (MAP) I just take it at the intake manifold plenum. For the boost controller, I think it is best to take it nearest the compressor outlet, if not at the compressor outlet itself.

Or a SPEC Aluminum: Are you going with 225mm size for less inertia? I stayed with the 240mm size for more friction surface.

Here's what I've been up to lately. I decided to wrap my exhaust with Thermo-Tech "Cool-it" header wrap. They also sell 2000 degree F high temp paint to seal the deal. I also want to wrap and coat the Borla muffler, once I find some ties long enough. Here I welded the mild steel V-band flange to the stainless steel muffler using mild steel MIG wire. Then I welded SS to SS for the muffler to the tip using mild steel mig wire: (please excuse the mess, I'm still single ) The copper looking wrap is their new "TCT Technology" stuff that has copper particles in it...it is supposed to be ~30% more efficient than their normal stuff. However, it is 50% more expensive! So I went with their old stuff to finish the job. Exhaust in a box! I got bored, so I thought I'd pretty up the thermostat housings, coolant inlet / heater fitting, and front cover while I have the engine apart. I still need to get a -6AN bung to weld into the upper thermostat housing to run the head coolant lines... (I'm not quite finished with this yet, it is a real PITA to do by hand.) And finally, I ordered a 240mm SPEC aluminum flywheel from Tim at S&T motorsport!! He is really great to talk to and also gave me some free advice on installing the KAAZ LSD way back when:

Got the Turbo head back from the Machine Shop!! Actually, it was a long time ago. I've been fighting a flu all weekend, so I thought I'd update since I'm not able to do much else Pics (of course) Did my own valve unshrouding, ported and radius'ed the runners, widened the bowls, and removed guide "lumps". Then I drilled and tapped above #5&6 for better coolant removal. All done at home achieving ~1cc tolerance between combustion chambers!! BRAAP installed new seats with 4/5 angle valve job, installed shortened valve guides, set up the valve train with new lash pads, new seals, etc. He CC'ed the chambers twice to set the valve seat height to achieve a final 1/4 cc tolerance between combustion chambers (not bad for my first try...thanks again to Paul at Rusch Motorsports He taught me how to do it! With the head porting, exhaust manifold porting, ultimate internal wastegate, 3" mandrel downpipe, 3" exhaust, T3/T04E turbo, etc. my ZXT should flow pretty well.

Cool! A hybrid-hybrid turbo.

Sounds like you're making good progress If it were me, I'd try extending the stock coolant lines that route into the throttle body and idle air controller for the turbo coolant lines (the ones that wrap in front of the head). I removed the PS pump to make it easier to run my intercooler tubing. You can "loop" the hydraulic lines at the rack. But, it makes the steering kind of heavy. I want to get a manual rack and crossmember someday... Rust huh? Well, the S130 have flares already built in. You could run S30 ZG flares on the S130. If you need more room, you could roll the inside. I've even seen "pulling" the outside, but it doesn't quite do it for me. You might as well run flares like you've mentioned, but I think it will look goofy unless you have wider wheels to fill the width accordingly. I've seen pics of Z31 flares on a S130 and it looks sweet! Hope this helps, -hughdogz [Edit: You need to follow the forum rules regarding descriptive thread titles. What you are asking doesn't fit into a "Guys and Girls" category. Plus there are only about three girls on this site ]

My palm is still on my face! (yeah, I can type with one hand ) About six years ago, I was adjusting my valves so I had to remove the cam cover. I left the bolts in the holes when I removed the cover. Well, one of them fell down the front cover!! I looked down the opening and couldn't see it, and thought it must have fallen all the way down into the oil pan. I was getting the car ready for a ~2000 mile road trip to MSA and didn't want to pull the oil pan. I thought if I'm lucky, it fell down and it will be okay. Sure enough, I drove it for the next six years like that!! Well, this year, I dropped the timing chain tensioner spring "down the chute" (Doh!) Then, I tried to recover it through the oil drain hole. BUT the magnet fell off the wand!! Argh!! now I have THREE foreign objects in my engine. So I pulled the front cover off, and the valve cover bolt, timing chain tensioner spring, and tensioner washer all fell out - they never made it into the oil pan!! I still have to pull the engine / oil pan to get that damn magnet though...

Exactly!! I got mine from the local Baxters. They were ~$145 and they said they price matched Summit for me. P/N 202-4206

Happy Birthday Big-Phil!! You have 7 months, 20 days on me. '72 was a leap year, but we both missed February 29th... It is still your birthday over here on the left coast

I remember when that came out! Wasn't R2D2 a trash can or something? I'll have to check it out. Thanks! -hughdogz

Hi TBS, any update on this endeavor?

I have a KAAZ LSD for a 240SX swapped into my ZXT R200. It wasn't too hard to do. Search for my writeup KAAZ LSD in a ZXT or something like that.] Later, -hughdogz