hughdogz

More progress pics... Here is my painted oil pan. What a saga! I cleaned the slude out of the inside of it using a little bit of Gunk engine brite. I'm not sure if it was from the solvent, but the paint on the inside started flaking off when it dried. For sure it would clog the screen in the oil pickup tube. I cleaned off all I could, and a week later it started flaking more!! I had to get it hot-tanked, then I painted it with two coats of etching primer, then 3-4 coats of 500 degree gloss black engine enamel (no way I was going to paint the inside again). Here you can see I finished polishing the front timing cover. I must have spent ~20 hours on it. Since the turbo I'm installing needs a spacer, the stock oil drain line isn't long enough. So I had Oil Filter Service here in P-town braze on a -10 AN bung: Then I had to repair some bubbling paint on the brake booster from brake fluid leaking out of the master cylinder. Then I had to remove rust on the driver's side frame rail since the brake fluid leaked all over that paint too!

Check out this one with an F1 V-10!! Is it real?

Have you checked to make sure the turbo's oil feed line is not blocked? The drain line could get blocked too, but it is ~3/4" so that seems less likely. Try blowing some compressed air through it to see if it can flow freely. I've seen it recently, where they suspected the turbo was bad, but it was really a completely blocked (used) oil feed line which caused the shaft to completely shear in half. Hope this helps..

That's because your boost gage reads in gage pressure, and the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor measures absolute pressure. The absolute pressure scale starts at a total vacuum (zero psi), and the gage scale starts at negative atmospheric pressure (-14.696 psi). In other words, gage pressure plus atmospheric pressure equals absolute pressure. As Nigel stated, 1 atmosphere = 101.3125 kPa = 14.696 psi absolute = 0 psi gage. To convert kPa to psi gage, divide the kPa reading by 101.3 (this will give the % of atmospheric pressure). Then multiply that percentage by 14.7 (this will give the absolute pressure in psi). Finally, subtract that number from 14.7 and make it negative (this will give the gage pressure). To convert psi gage to kPa absolute, add 14.7 (this will give absolute pressure psi). Divide that number by 14.7 (giving percentage of atmospheric). Multiply that number by 101.3 to get absolute pressure kPa. My boost / vacuum gage reads vacuum in millimeters mercury (Hg), but the boost is in psi. You can also measure pressure by inches Hg, etc. Hope this helped clear things up a bit...

Good thing I only got as far as buying the bung I appreciate all the info Guys!!

If I run the coolant hoses into the UPPER thermostat housing, will that work? I figure it is equivalent to running directly into the radiator inlet. From the looks of RossMan's diagram, he's planning on running into the lower thermostat housing? Thanks! -Hugh

I noticed that too. Luckily, it only seems to happen after I've already had the initial five second prime...if I go key-off then key-on within a short amount of time, this seems to trigger the behavior IIRC. I doubt the Wolf knows whether or not the target fuel pressure is already reached.

I hope it's not Gimp. That would be cruel...bwhahahahaha!!!

I've taken a poll, and we have a consensus. 9/10 of us inmates agree, this thread carries no material value. Therefore, I recommend that this thread be expunged from the HBZ permanent record!!

Yeah, what's up with that?! :toetap05:

Hmm...I know of someone that can make Arita-speed airdams here in the States...with some ZG flares, ZXR wing and some deep, wide rims...I think the S130's can look pretty hot too!

Haha! Good one. Paul, when did you grow a beard and start wearing a tie?! I like the "Wolfman Jack" look.

Doh! Posted in the wrong thread. I'm a noob.

Huh? That is the BEST car commercial EVER!! ~~~~~Black GOLD~~~~~~~ Bam-chicka-wham-wham...

Huh? Aren't all Japanese / Asian cars "rice burners"? Maybe you mean "ricers"...even Domestic cars can be "riced out"

Yeah, I would say hunt one down. Now that I think about it, if you don't have a metal cover, every time the rotor passes a spark to the six contacts in distributor cap, there is an arc. That arc will give off electro-magnetic waves. This could interfere with the electronics for the optical sensor if there is not something (the cover) to shield it. *Disclaimer* I could be totally wrong though. You could always try it without one, and see if it works or not.

I would say use it. It may act as a "Faraday cage" that will protect the CAS electronics from EMI noise.

I made a little progress this weekend. I've mostly spent days cleaning grease off my oil pan, engine mounts, engine bay, etc. after pulling the motor out. The paint on the inside of the oil pan started flaking off like crazy when it dried. Not sure if it was caused by the solvents I used...is this common? Anyway, I'll have to repaint it, since it would most likely clog the oil pickup screen. Here is my block painted. I had to clean it with engine degreaser, then B-12 Chemtool and finally rubbing alcohol. I think it turned out pretty nice. First I sprayed it with two coats Thermo-Tec "cool-it" 1200-1800 degreee paint. It looks like chrome, I almost wanted to keep it this way! Then I sprayed it with 1.5 cans of Dupli-Color paint to match the body paint (2000 Acura Electron Blue Pearl). It may not look like much progress, but Man did it take a lot of time and loss of braincells. Now back to fighting the "rust wars" / bubbling paint in the engine bay!

I'm surprised there aren't any sparks from that Supra's exhaust scraping the ground? Maybe there's so much rubber left on the track, no sparky

Hi Travb2007, I probably sounded like an a$$hole in my first post. I apologize for that (especially since you are a new member). For your first question: You have some options 1) Go with the internal wastegate (then you'll also need a wastegate actuator, that isn't shown in your pic) 2) Go with a blockoff plate that only has a 3" vband flange. This will block off the wastegate hole, and you'll have to custom mount an external wastegate to your exhaust manifold. 3) Go with a "blockoff plate" that has holes for both the exhaust and wastegate ports. You'll still need an external wastegate, but you can run it as a "divorced" wastegate setup like jgkurz designed and built. Second question: I see that turbo has flanges "built in" and you cannot simply clamp a coupler to it (I think this is what you had in mind). For the "stock" install, there had to be the "other half" flanges as part of the IC tubing. You are going to either have to find those pieces, and cut off the flange with a bit of tubing to clamp on to or else make some custom flanges that have a short piece of tubing to clamp onto. Or, you can weld flanges directly to your IC tubing, but you'll lose some "play" that you have using silicone couplers. Hope this helped...

Umm...yeah, if you buy that internal wastegate housing from your ebay link, and install it on your turbo, you'll have an internally wastegated turbo. The intake port is right there on the left hand side of the compressor (the inducer) Maybe I don't remember right, but isn't it a metal plate?

The front facia is made by a company in New Zealand called AeroTech. I'm guessing that the rear spoiler and ZG flares are S30 ones, modified to fit an S130.

Hey l28et280z, I wasn't in it for the money (I didn't realize you had said anything about that in your initial post). Just trying to help out my brethren. Are you looking for a connector cable too? I already cut off the stock round end connector and wired up a Delphi weatherpack connector. Plus I need it for a 260z turbo swap that I will do someday.

I didn't. This is the second show I've missed since 2003 The 280ZX turnout didn't look as big as last year (from your pics). I didn't get moving like I should have this winter. It has been another long haul with all the mods this year, and my ZX is still on jackstands!! Plus, with the uncertainty of the economy, and the stock market taking a dump, I'd rather spend the (scarce) ~$1000 on new performance parts. Yasin, you forgot to post pics of the narrow-bodies too. Next year...NEXT YEAR...hehe.