hughdogz

Luckily, we don't have snow in PDX yet... I know what you're saying though, it is damn cold now. I'm thinking of firing up the 'ol furnace today. You know it is cold in the house, when you need a beer cozy to keep your hand from getting too cold, instead of worrying about keeping the beer cold, hehe!

I bet Dr. Rich is ecstatic! Nice work BRAAP and RTz! Did you guys to the "happy dance" for Rich, or did he do that part?

Were they put back on the studs / bolt (temporarily) after you remove them? I try to put them back on a few turns at so I don't lose track of them...

Hell yeah, looks like a great job Madkaw! I should have went with a single-in, dual-out muffler, but I didn't know Borla made them at the time. Nice HP improvement too. How does she sound now? A bit more throaty, I bet

Hydroplaning gets really bad at times here in soggy Oregon. Especially on the local freeways. There can be ruts in the road that get filled with inches of rain. It helps a bit if you drive off-center of the ruts. Stupid people who drive with studded tires for ~6 months in a row cause it, not heavy vehicles These have been really good wet weather tires for me: http://toyotires.com/tire/pattern/proxes-tpt

That's called parallax error How about using a mirror on a stick? Anything mounted on a stick is a winner

My two drivers, 260Z and Toybo truck:

Sweet. There is also Ratsun.net where they are mostly 510 / truck guys, but there are a few of us S30 / S130 people on there. We started up our weekly PDX Ratsun meets in Beaverton again. It's really cool, come check it out. Skib (Rob) and Z_Rac3r (Megan) are about your age too.

Right on. Hey, I had an idea of using an air conditioning evaporator integrated with an air-air intercooler. Neat idea, and someone mentioned some kind of Typhoon type-vehicle had one but they only produced a few of them. Also, it would be nice to do a CFD of the design beforehand, since it looks as though the Laminova manifold in that link would create a significant pressure drop, more than say 1 psi for a good air-air IC. By the way, what sketch program did you use to make the diagram? It's pretty neat.

Coolant can get pretty warm (~160 => 200 degrees F) so to use that Laminova, wouldn't that warm ambient air when not in boost? Also, you need a good amount of surface area for heat transfer. I don't think four tubes are going to do it. Also, aluminum has twice the heat transfer coefficent of say brass. Ideally, an intercooler can cool the intake charge down to ambient air temperature, but with a Laminova, you can only cool it down to engine coolant temperature. I don't think it would be efficent enough, perhaps even deficient. Maybe I'm wrong, it wouldn't be the first time [Edit: Okay, now that I read those links, it may be do-able. But you're still going to mount an aftercooler somewhere, and not use engine coolant, right?]

I found it really helps if you take good notes of the problems the prof writes on the board (assuming schools still use chalk and blackboards). Often times, the tests on the exam are those exact problems with just some different numbers. The thing I didn't like about Chemistry is they say there is a rule, but with all these exceptions. With Physics, there are no exceptions to the rules!

abc, Damn, that is like night and day. Come down to Beaches at PIR this Wednesday, I have to check our your ZX. We have a NorthwestZ.org meeting 1st Wednesdays of the month at the Golden Touch Resturaunt on Barbur blvd in SW Portland. All these z owners coming out of the woodworks in PDX. Awesome!

I like my Rays / Volk lug nuts. They're made of Duralumin, and only weigh ~20-30 grams each. They use a special key, but to the untrained eye, it doesn't seem like they have one. One lug is seven-sided with a slot for the key. There are a bunch of tuner lug nuts here: http://www.upgrademotoring.com/wheels/lugnuts.htm

Hi John, Have you considered switching from R-12 to R134a? I believe all that is involved is to change to a different style filler fitting (I've seen by buddy Bryan do it for a Bimmer) You can then buy 134a off the shelf at almost any auto parts store (for not much $$ by comparison). Just a thought...

I'm half Okinawan, born there....Dad? Haha, it was 1972 though...

If you have an older z, I think upgrading the alternator would help a lot too. With window wipers, defrost and headlights on, it draws a lot of amps. My accessories worked faster, dash lights brighter, etc. Good tires are the key!

Tony's my hero! He hit the nail on the head so many times, I think he deserves a nail gun, hehe.

Hi Madkaw, I did a 3" on my ZXT http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124360&page=2 I used six(?) v-band clamps so you can easily take it apart. Those were ~$35 each. I welded 38 pieces together, counting all the brackets Then I ground down all the welds and wrapped the pieces in Thermo-Tech and coated with their 2000F paint. You can see where it goes up and over the rear crossmember, then the 45 next to the muffler nearly touches the CV boot at full droop. Under compression the boot is out of the way. I got my dual 4" SS tip for ~$80 from my friend that owns a muffler shop. Hope this helps, -hughdogz

Bwhahaha!! That's pretty funny. I get it now (thanks Ron)!

Okay, perhaps I'm not spending enough time on the forum

I sure don't Because that is a Cosmonaut suit and raising your hand like a Nazi?!

Sweet! Phelbotomize the SPAM!

I think this will turn out badass!

No reverse lamps?

Hi Zedman, 1) Have you verified ignition timing of cylinder #1 at TDC with the ignition lock ON? 2) Have your tried re-sequencing the ignition? (clocking the distributor electronically) Instead of going 1-5-3-6-2-4. try 6-2-4-1-5-3, etc. Cheers, -hughdogz