260DET

Sills AKA rocker panels.

How do these sticky synthetics perform with the syncros? The RB20DET box I have has too slick syncros, particularly third, when using ordinary type oils. I'd like to slow them down a bit, give them a chance to do what they are supposed to do.

For the VG30DET, thinking an underdrive crankshaft pulley set to reduce alternator and PS pump RPM would be good, seeing it will be revved to 7000. But what about the harmonics? Or is this not an issue with a V6?

Wondering what manual gearbox oil would be a reddish mauve/purple colour and sticky, unlike any other oil I've seen. 99% sure its not Redline or Castrol Syntrans, they are more a pure red and not sticky. My thoughts were Royal Purple but I have never knowingly seen that oil. A sticky gearbox/diff oil could be good in extreme conditions such as racing but then again its stickiness may effectively increase its viscosity, so chewing more power. What do you reckon?

M4 MoTec, thats what my FJ20DET has. Drives better than a factory ECU and goes like a cut snake.

Tried Duplicolour? I think they still do small spray cans of touchup paint.

Yeh, the VQ was designed to comply with emission requirements and other non performance criteria. The VG was designed at a time when performance was everything. Know what my priorities are

Yes, and its been discussed forever. A search will reveal all, see particularly the body chassis etc sub forum.

Thanks all for the tips, sounds like its just an unavoidable bastard of a job so I'd better get used to it One thing that I have found is by turning up the current, a lot more than usually would be used on thin metal, the weld tends to blast its way along. Got to be quick though.

You have a Q45 rear end in a S30? Don't know what a Q45 is but guessing it has the usual Nissan multilink setup. The problem could well be caused by soft springs but it may also be related to how the multilink sub-assembly was installed. Tilting it forward, down at the front, will increase squat by effectively altering the suspension geometry.

Looking for some effective simple low tech ways to prepare a body for seam welding. Particularly where the seam is sealed with that putty stuff. Also, is there any particular solvent that should be used finally before welding? At present using a rotory wire brush in a drill seems as good a way as any to clean away the paint and stuff. What about using paint remover first? So far I'm having mixed results with the MIG doing rust repairs, for no apparent reason. Sometimes it crackes along and does a nice weld, sometimes it splutters ending up with a very ugly blobby weld.

The 280ZX has a semi trailing arm rear suspension, the cradle attaches to the body at three points in a triangular fashion. The S13 uses Nissan's multilink rear suspension, its cradle attaches at four points. Being in the process of fitting a S14 cradle to a ZX I can assure you that none of the mounting points line up, the S13 cradle is similar but not the same as the S14's. I'm not sure how this all effects the mounting of an engine though.

Yeh grade 8 for suspension and most other structural applications. Nissan use grade 4 sometimes for non structural purposes but they break easily so something better is sensible.

Talking of Porsches, had an interesting conversation with a former Porsche race driver who described how driving a Porsche was quite different to most other cars. He incidentially was not a Porsche fan, loves Datsuns. On slower corners Porsches are good he said because their usually superior braking can be used to good advantage, braking deep into the corners. It was then a matter of getting the car pointing in the right direction as soon as possible and using the usually superior traction to drive early out of the corner. There was not much finesse in it, hard braking, quick turn, blast away out.

Be interested in your proposed inlet plenum ZF, my idea is to use a single throttle body located around where the fuel pressure regulator presently is. I was thinking of modding the stock one so that the engine retains its stock look.

You are going to piss that big lump of a heater off aren't you, they weigh a ton. Thinking about using two 12v hair dryer fans in mine to demist the windscreen, not really daily driver practical but they would keep the car road legal. Plus we don't get snow etc here

I believe the Euro versions of the 300ZXTT had diff oil coolers from the factory, be interesting to see how they did it. Yours looks good but I'm no expert on the subject, usually the cooler itself is mounted not far from the diff.

Have to say after using the AU Trade Tools auto darkening helmet that it does the job. Blocks reflections in most situations, the adjustable intensity works well and it enables you to position the handpiece tip right where you want it to get the weld started.

Be interested to see a pic of a ZX with flares because with their guard/fender shape I can't see how flares could be neatly attached without reshaping the guard/fender first. If mine has to be done to take wider tyres I was thinking of cutting the outside edge nearly off and adding a piece of crescent shaped metal, then welding it all up. Bastard of a job but it would retain the basic ZX shape.

Sell your Power FC and get an aftermarket ECU that is supported by a local dyno operator. Available maps may be used to start a car and drive it carefully to the dyno tuner and thats about it, relying on one when going for full power is crazy. Basic boost control is regulated by the turbo diaphragm, there are different ones available so you are not stuck with the 15psi one, been there done that. What Dave said can be done with caution but you can't beat a proper dyno tune, besides which he has a fair bit of experience.

My educated guess is that there are no 280ZX spoilers available new from Japan anymore. A contact there in the car business has not been able to find any at least.

Have been told that phosphoric acid can be used to permanently treat rust in cavities and other inaccessible places. Dilute it, spray it in, allow to dry. Then spray in techtyl or whatever final proprietary coating you are going to use. The acid neutralises the rust, the final coating protects it from future deterioration. No experience myself, no idea how much the acid should be diluted. Comments, experiences?

Just bought a Trade Tools own brand job for $79, its a full face helmet that also covers part of the top of your head, has adjustable bands etc. Seems OK, will give it a serious workout the next day or so.

Personally I like shiney bits, more bling. So, either black out just the big lump vent things, or, replace them with some custom made vents. Thinking of making some flat framed vents with rear facing expanded mesh to do the venting.

That 'Its a Snap' kit looks good, might get one myself.