260DET

There is a tool that cuts and shapes vents like in that yellow one, maybe ask custom rod type body shops?

What may have happened with mine initially is, because the reaction disc was missing, a misalignment changed the amount of boost effort that was being applied. So, while the reaction disc itself does not change the amount of ultimate boost effort its absence results in that happening. Anyway thats the present theory, I'll strip a spare booster sometime and have a look. On the subject of using twin master cylinders instead of the OE booster setup, for a road car in NannystateAU it would be just another thing requiring approval to be road legal. But unless you are going to run high friction race brake pads I'm not sure that they would be able to provide sufficient braking effort for something which is not a lightweight race car.

Will be using a slightly modified VG30DETT sump pan and pickup, plus an Accusump, same as on the present engine which has had no oiling problems at all. The VG33 should be even better due to it having the lower capacity DE oil pump and carrying less oil up top in the heads, so better drain down although I'm still looking at that, the left head having the drain at the front. I guess my philosophy is to build to a standard which is generous for the intended use but no more

Interesting. The difference I experienced on the track was quite remarkable, brakes were basically either on of off. When on the car would stop in about half the distance it does with a reaction disc fitted but the rate of braking was uncontrollable.

Thanks John, the harder the disc material the more boost assistance I assume.

Glad to see that North Americans have these sort of 'don't be an exhibitionist' type road laws to protect them and their environment makes us furriners feel a bit better, we are not the only ones being oppressed

Hoping someone will have 'been there done that', otherwise I'm going to have to pull a spare booster to bits and work out how the reaction disc functions

It was a Jaguar racing team that I think 'discovered' rear diffusers. The backs of their cars were so low they had trouble getting them on and off the transporters so the rear ends were modified to form a slope up angle underneath for better clearance. This resulted in more rear grip on the track and improved lap times, love those sorts of incidential discoveries that result in advances in car performance

Yeh, going to see what the machinist says about fixing the oil pump mounting base so a Z32 oil pump will bolt on satisfactorily. At the moment some sort of liquid metal filler fix is preferred, given that it will be under compression and the two mounting bolts in question can be tapped through the filler into the block itself. I'm thinking if the filler stands up to machining OK, it will have to be machined flush with the block face, then it will be fine.

When my 280ZXT hybridz was first built the booster had been reconditioned but no reaction disc fitted. Consequently it was impossible to modulate the brakes but when braking at high speed the car stopped in a very short distance, it does have a big brake upgrade. Since then a reaction disc has been fitted and the brakes behave and work prefectly, except that no matter how hard the pedal is pushed at high speed the stopping distance although good is not as good as it was without the disc. So I'm wondering if it would be possible to get more boost with high pedal pressure to regain that original stopping performance without losing any of the present modulation quality.

It should not be forgotten that the earliest diffusers were simple rear mounted angled pieces, nothing more. Sure a diffuser will work better if its part of a complete undercar aero package but thats not necessary to get a worthwhile benefit. I've looked at putting one beginning at the back of and level with the bottom of the 280ZX's fuel tank and can see no reason why it should not work.

To cut a long story short, this project was going to be canned but I've now decided to go ahead and use a Z32 auto box behind it. So some more parts are on order from the US, get in while the Aussie $ is strong, pics of same when they arrive. Still a long term project, aiming for it all to be ready by easter 2011, unless the VG30DET blows up before then which will accelerate it

You do realise that the pinion from the short nose diff is not long enough to go into the long nose carrier don't you ie it won't fit.

I've seen one fitted to the front of the cam cover, facing back inside towards the cam sprocket. Have not seen inside but the installation looked neat from the outside and not too hard to do.

Have a search for a S30 named Red Bird, he has a really good custom rear diffuser. Thought I had a pic of it but can't find.

Video/pics of Mustang skids not loading.

Bloody Murricans, I am ravaged by jealousy Don't you dare part any of them out either, love my 2+0

Getting it ready for Bathurst I see Airbox is a good idea, use large diameter flexible ducting from it to the radiator support panel hole. Do not unestimate the benefit a bit of ram air effect you will get at speed.

Nothing wrong with cheap thrills

Lot of money for a decent HD camera, Kodak for example have a couple for less than that with remotes available. I got the cheaper one for under $100 'factory refurbished' and have mounted it on the rear wing facing to the back. Yours is a cool looking camera but I find that its the cool 'motorsport' ones which are overpriced.

I know mentioning a 'remedy' after the event pisses most people off but flashing wallets is a nono. Use a money belt and carry just a bit of cash in your pocket. If you want some more find somewhere private to dig it out eg a toilet.

Compare rear suspensions? But jampacked engine bays are unnecessary nonsense and sorry to say but Z cars should not be designed in the US, just like the S30 was not.

From memory a L6 OE flywheel pilots on the ID of the rear of the crank, VG's certainy do. Guess the modified crank could have been done to move the flywheel forward to provide more room for a multi plate clutch or something but your explanation makes more sense to a layman like me.

A full G nose would reduce drag more than what you have already done to the front, although that will help. On the rear, why not test the ones you already have? The rate the car slows down from a set high speed will give a useable result.

With the VG motors the valve timing was controlled by a solenoid switching oil pressure but that was for a on/off system. Surely the FSM for yours will explain.