260DET

Thanks for the responses, note my edit re a Z32 box fitting.

Looking ahead to a possible 450hp LS1 engine change and wondering if the 4L60/65E can be modified to give nice smooth clean downshifts under heavy braking from high speeds. There is a lot of stuff advertised - big power upgrades, manual shift bodies and shifters, stand alone shift management and so on but never any mention other than for street or drag use. I'm wary of asking advertisers if their stuff will suit my purpose, any suggestions?

Weight on bathroom scales so approximate is 123pounds, NA and TT about the same.

I would not consider DIY tuning simply because you can only load my VG30DET engine up sufficiently on a dyno. Let alone know how to do a good tune. Its cheaper than blowing a motor and once done properly thats it, see my signature YouTube link for the Z on the dyno.

I know that a Z32 manual gearbox will basically fit a RHD 280ZX but the tunnel has to be modified to clear the starter motor, how about a GM 4L60E auto? Anyone tried one or something similar in size?

Nice work sport, Zincanneal material? Put some braces across that trans tunnel while you are at it, those S30 bodies need all the help they can get

A good single plate will take 500whp turbo torque but thats a Z32 TT setup using off the shelf components. Pic of mine which is a local job where I was told Kevlar is not the best material for clutches due to the risk of oil contamination, works not too bad in traffic with the sprung center, great on a road course. Guess there would be a US equivalent.

Makes sense to me. An alternative thing is to look at how deep the stock end bolt goes into the threaded part of the tube, to fully support the tube it should be long enough to go well past the place where the tube typically breaks.

Towing tie downs are a bit of a hot topic around my way at the moment, the weight of opinion seems to favour body tie down rather than wheel. The theory is that body tie downs restrain the car from bouncing around much on its suspension.

To finish this topic off the pic below shows the final setup which works so well that I can belt around a race track and the temp just sits on 85 degrees C which is what the thermostat is rated at. Keep in mind that this car has a VG30DET, that front central vent is located right in front of the motor. The final improvement done was to instal those black kickup plates in front of the stock but opened out vents, they were instrumental is dropping the engine temp something like 5 degrees C. The engine bay stays cool too which has to be good for the electrics, fuel, etc. As a possible side effect it may be that there is now so much disrupted airflow over the bonnet that its curved shape no longer aids lift at speed. Overall? Job done

Yep, just as well I came along with my on topic no float comment

Seeing we are on a speed kick, going by the incar video taken at a local race circuit my hybrid 280ZXT accelerates from 130KPH/80MPH to 230KPH/140MPH in less than 10 seconds. And no, it does not float

I can't understand this fixation on bondo, which is a moisture absorbent polyester filler, by those who do such good work and then want to use a cheap arse rubbish polyester filler. Crying out loud, go marine, use a epoxy based filler with glass balloons which is light and moisture proof and which you can fill with integrity as deep as you like. Thats my little rant, once and for all, do it right and get over this bondo fixation. Body shops use it because insurance companys won't pay for quality.

Don't care what anyone says, to get a stockish S30 past a genuine timed 125mph requires a lot of road. The right drag reducing aero will help for sure, plus the car will be more stable.

Looking at the pics above that car needs more front roll stiffness (and perhaps a stiffer chassis) to wedge weight back on to that inside rear to get some traction and keep the wheel angles within limits, car looks fairly awful really. Below is a pic of a car with a lot of front roll stiffness taking a slow right 180 degree corner, note the inside front is just off the ground, thats all due to a stiff chassis and a big front ARB holding the inside wheel up.

Without contradicting John's #2 point above, I've found that with weight transfer to the front still happening it is possible to initially flick the steering quickly to get the front of the car to turn in. Timing is everything with such a move, its a quick flick to get the response before lateral weight transfer kicks in to make things difficult. Its best used for relatively slow speed corners, I would not use it in a high speed corner.

'Finally, in most cases it is difficult to accommodate foot-and-a-half wide tires on the front of the car, especially without power steering. The scrub radius ends up being really large, and the car gets difficult to steer'. Thats the thing for most of us, what will fit in there and for the fronts, will they clear when turning?

Nice project, the fiberglass design work looks to be first class. But I prefer the front on the red Z, maybe cover the fog light openings and narrow down the grille opening, it should be better aerodynamically too.

Psssst, is there any downside to listing an Elvis impersonator as a friend ie will the hot chicks be put off

Thanks for that, must remember to pass that info on.

There was someone from Europe on this forum a while ago who had made a set, Netherlands? Frank may know him.

On top speed claims, a basically stock S30 did 131MPH over a long salt lake course recently. It was allowed to have minimum aero assistance in its stock class, according to the driver it was moving around a lot at 130, I think the course was seven miles long, it needed a long run to get to that speed which was accurately timed of course.

To finish this off, went to the circuit on Sunday and did a PB, running only 12 PSI boost too Car still moves around a bit but the low speed bump adjustment is not fine enough to adjust it any more, besides its good, according to the Penske info I guess its nearer a wet weather setup. Car has great power down out of corners so to get it to turn in I stomp the brakes and turn the wheel decisively at the same time. This forces an agressive corner approach which means later braking, all good.

Looks like a Red Bull promo gig, engine sounds true so it may be a real but superseded F1 deal car. 'Intentionally driving a vehicle out of control' is the socalled hooning offence, what a load of sensationalist nonsense, idiot cops/politicians

Hmmm, no M8 needed I think, all M6, its been a while. Button head stainless look good on the exposed stuff, an assortment of 6mm washers would be good too.