260DET

Just watch that LCA thing, the correct angle is that between the inner and outer pivot points. Some cars have the outer pivot (ball joint) quite a bit lower than the arm angle itself indicates.

(3,500+) BMWs including an M3, M5, Z3, 850i and (3) 740il Protection BMW's don't do so well in the US? Thats a lot of one make compared with the others.

Bloody hell ZFDU, perhaps you don't realise that there is nothing new in what I think you are saying and most people on this forum have some basic mechanical knowledge, at the very least

My Accusump is used on startup, the engine only runs about once per month so the reservoir is opened immediately before the engine is cranked over. The pressure delivered is that good the oil light goes off before the engine starts.

Oh lord I'm not advocating the use of a item that has been found inadequate, merely commenting on the general design and particularly the triangulation of the AZC ones.

There are suspension programs around to do what you want, there is even a method to plot it all out on paper using string. Books by Allan Staniforth for the latter. Good luck, fitting a correct length upper control arm in is going to be fun.

Hadn't consider that HM, the extra complications one pays for just to have two camshafts per head, not one Anyway my philosophy on lubrication is that it can never be too good. Check out Moroso and Accusump sites for pics and diagrams Dave, just work out how its all going to be connected before the engine goes in though.

The S30 arms I made a while ago were similar to the AZC ones except they were double gusseted at the top, looking at pic #2 first post. Other than that the AZC ones look OK to me.

Z32 TT's have a nicely designed sump yet they are prone to oiling problems on high G turns. Put an Accusump on mine and left the sump pretty much as it was.

Too easy with the R35, they are #1 in the tarmac rallys now stock standard including tyres. Besides RWD for the fun and challenge, I see too many AWDs crashing due to people thinking its them, not the car, which has the ability. Porsche is a better looking car than the 370Z with its exaggerated styling though.

Hey, we are allowed to dream But lets put it this way, I have no doubt that a properly prepared turbo 370Z would be at the performance level where driver capability is the deciding factor.

Prefer a worked turbo 370Z myself, seriously, to run down the Euros with

I'd better not comment knowing how likely any comment I'm likely to make could be taken as inflamatory here. Hope that makes sense

Those 'hood pins' for $632.50 look like the ones used on our old Falcon GT back in the 80's. Got a pair off Egay for $30 or something for the Z, push down and turn to lock.

The thing is I can say definately that a S14 rear end will fit but it takes a lot of engineering and fabrication to do. Its not the sort of thing to provide 'step by step' instructions on because anyone who wants to undertake such work needs to have the skills anyway, particularly as vehicle safety is involved. If they do have the necessary skills it will be relatively easy for them to work out how they want to do it. Which could well be different to the way mine was done. And its not just a matter of just locating the suspension cradle securely either, a knowledge of suspension dynamics such as anti squat is also required. In addition to that mine required custom suspension damper assemblies the specifications of which I had to calculate and provide the builder with. So its about as far from a 'step by step' job as you can get. Given the sheer volume of work involved and particularly when considering the safety angle I decided not to take detailed pics or make notes as I went. I'm doing this post to make my attitude clear to anyone who does a proper search, no responses to PM's etc, this is it. Although it may help if I say its possible to do the conversion using basically the existing 280ZX structure for the back two mounts with some extra reinforcing required for the front two. But not a lot, fairly straight forward. One thing you do know now is that the S14 rear end will fit and will work very well, if properly done. Thats a whole lot more than I knew before doing mine One extra bit of info, with rolled lips 9 inch wheels will fit under the rear guards, perhaps 9.5" depending on coilover clearance and the tyres used. And Zmonster, have you done a write up on your S14 front end swap? Others will be interested for sure.

That 'interlock' front engine mount upgrade is a fairly common performance upgrade in Australia, I made similar using rear leaf spring eye bushes off a ute for the 280. For the S30 diff, the original mount may be retained, with an added steel loop over the front. Between the loop and the diff are two/three adjustable rubber bump stops attached inside the loop. With that setup you retain the advantages of the OE mount but prevent the front of the diff moving around under hard acceleration. Even if the OE mount fails completely the diff is not going anywhere.

Must be more profit in light beer because its always being advertised, Tooheys do a heavy that is not a bad drop though

The thing is Godzilla is not just singular, he is many, his derivatives live on and still cause havoc in all forms of Oz motorsport, not just against the V8's either. Think expensive Euro For example there are R32/33/34 track cars in all states of tune, two wheel as well as four wheel drive. A R32 GTST was out at the track the other day, a road registered Targa Tasmania car which went faster than any two wheel drive two liter notch back coupe has a right to PS My excuse, Z was injured, still

On the subjest of the location of oil coolers of the radiator type, the one on the 280ZX was located in the right front wheel well in front of the wheel but far enough forward so as to avoid the high pressure zone immediately in front of the wheel. The cooler is not particuularly big but it is working well at keeping oil temperatures under control, air is vented in from the front spoiler opening via a diffuser. This location of course gets the heat away from the front where it can recycle back into the engine bay, the last place its wanted. The right front wheel and brake do not run noticeably hotter as a result either. In the attached pic the power steering cooler is on the left.

Those cheeky advertisers, taking the piss

There are a few non racing type oils that still have the zinc/phosphorous additives including some diesel oils, some Amsoil synthetics too. Its my understanding that such additives may not be present in the latest standard oils because of environmental concerns and cat converter damage. So, contary to what the article says, the latest standard may not always be best. Will have to read the article again but basically all he seems to be saying is to match the oil viscosity to the cars use.

100 years eh, just goes to show that being involved with Z cars ensures you live a long life Note I only said involved with Alan

Interesting comment. Mine is deliberately angled down towards the back so the airflow will have to speed up and so drop in pressure, Bernoulli's thing or whatever it is. I posted a pic and description of what had been done here a while ago. The car has not been tested at really high speeds but on one of the circuits I go to there is a kink I've taken at ~200KPH which is a bit of an aero test. Can't fault it so far, steering is completely neutral there and the car rock solid. The car does have a front splitter and a rear wing too. But if yours is working then no problem, I don't claim to be an aero expert

Like it, very neat and growly, good work I'd get a 33 to play around with but decent ones are too expensive in my part of the world, besides the VG30DET takes all my spare money.

Wire wound flexible hose should be OK providing its good quality stuff. My GT35R has some for the inlet with short piece of aluminium tube onto the turbo. So the immediate inlet is straight. But its good to think about these sorts of things that can cause serious problems if they fail.