MAG58

The ad is for a 328i and that should be in the mid 6.5 range. That's close to 0-100 in under 5 right?

The fact that it's a kommiefornia gun makes it that much better.

I mean it's only proper mathematics to round 62 up to 100 right? He was just shortening all that technical nonsense into something the laymen could understand.

I've used evercoat and 3M stuff. I like both quite a bit, though if I know I wont be able to sand it within about an hour or two of using it i'll use 3m. Evercoat makes a great product but it gets very hard and difficult to shape easily after about an hour in my opinion. Though I do think that Evercoat does give a better finished product.

No. This thing was cool because it displays what could be done with enough skill and the right tools, but I'm willing to bet that someone could scratch build their own car, build it, and have it do everything better than a cobra replicar, and cost less than that CNC billet chassis.

Not quite.

It could have 4 wings on it and I'd still want it. Listen to that roar!

Why did I laugh at this?

If you've ever tried to put an L series engine in there straight, before it leans over, it's quite a bit taller, especially visible at the front of the motor where the hood would hit. It also has the fantastic qualities of longer intake runners as mentioned and in the case of the RHD cars, it gives a more even weight distribution with much of the engine on the passenger side of the car. The torque/torsion effects (using the entire body as a lever help reduce the effect of torque on the car) is more effected by the fact that the L series is slightly offset in the engine bay

You have my attention Mr. BRAAP sir... Fear hath overcome me.

Not bad! When I flew pattern back in the day I did a bunch of test flights too. Worst one I had to save was with the ailerons reversed ...

Jay28, what color code did you use?

In the US if you're operating by AMA regulations, and flying with a fully laden (wet) weight of under 55lbs, you're covered by your AMA membership. This however requires you to get your jet license which includes the requirement of flying pylon and other 150 (i think) + mph capable airplanes while under the supervision of jet instructors. Prop planes are fare game though.

After flying a smaller DF version, these airframes are very snap happy at a fairly high stall speed (though it did float nicely in ground effect). It seems this has not changed with the scaled up version.

Happy Birthday Ron! ... And you cant kill Paul until after spring when he can grind on my cylinder head.

It's already leaned over on it's side. Making the motor fit is not what I'm worried about, the engine is very good at producing large amounts of torque and I'm worried about finding a decent transmission that I can stuff behind it without Too much work that wont grenade.

Yep, also agree. I run a little high flow filter to get all the big crud out of the line before it goes into the pump, and then I have a much finer filter in the engine bay before it goes into my carbs. It *shouldn't* affect your flow enough to make a difference and your injectors will thank you.

And for Daeron (sorry for the double post), The engine is shorter than the L series length wise (don't ask me how), has a 20mm taller deck height (same as the diesel) but is less than 20mm taller than the L series (also, have no Idea how this is with the head installed though) and about 30lbs lighter. The engine is front sump (much like a bimmer) but as short as it is, I should only have to lightly notch the front x-member to make it fit while the engine leans over and I will probably do and engine cradle similar to the SBF guys. I wish I would have taken a picture of the engine from the side, it's really interesting how much the engine is engineered, all the ribbing is cast into the exterior of the block and there really is as much material removed as MB deemed possible.

Point made... But still. A Nascar Z would be cool. Though you can start with a SBC and I believe brodix makes the cant valve "SB2" type head, in the event you want something completely nuts later on. I'm trying to build a stroker motor on a budget, so there's gotta be a way... At any rate, good work phleb

My vote is SB2. If I went SBC I would kill for an SB2.

Ok, now the real question is, who is gonna man up and put the 6.1L SRT motor in a Z car? Any takers?

The block is a MB 104.981 block, or the early "300-24" 3.0L block. It has the 89mm bore as opposed to the 89.9mm bore of the 2.8/3.2 motors and I do not plan on taking it to the 91mm that the C36 (actually a 2.8L) Block has to try and keep as much cylinder wall thickness in it as possible. I have already been talking to a bunch of individuals in Sweden that make big numbers with the M103/4 engines in turbocharged form and a custom Metal head gasket as well as a few cooling modifications will be on their way. This engine does however do fantastically well in turbocharged form, with the low power "base" M104 making 400hp and 500ft/lbs on 91 octane in an untouched motor/ecu (added injector in intake mani). The hardest thing is going to be finding a tranny, because the transmission that fits is the 2.3-16 Getrag 260 (same as in the E30M3) which is a dogleg with no OD. I feel this would be bad for a bigger displacement turbo motor, so if any of you have any options, the clutch is figured out. I can probably adapt using the bell housing from the 722.6xx auto.

Here's my car.

My car, in Phantom Grey Pearl

I figured I'd finally make it official, the DOHC project got put on hold when I got a sizzling deal on all the pieces parts (minus rods and pistons) to make a MB M104.980 Stroker motor (Same as the C36AMG engine). So far I've been talking to the fine people at 190Rev.net on all the technicals for this engine and trying to piece together all the goodies to make it happy. At any rate, since my DD is my Z right now the motor cant get mocked up yet, but I measured and it should fit without cutting or big ol' fancy hood scoops. As far as specs: 89mm bore and 92.4mm stroke (could go to 91 for full 3.6L but I want to stay with more wall thickness for a terbeaux ) Engine weight is 441lbs, I'll put it on a scale when it's built for sure to put up with BRAAP's definitive engine weights. Head flow is unkown but now I do have a 90-92 and a 93-97 (production breaks) head so I can see which is a better flowing piece. Anywho, here are some pics: The head's all wrapped up so I'll just use my M104 to L series head comparo pics... It's the same head anyway. First off, the block. M104.981ish 3.0L Engine Block Moar... Front of block: 350SDL "Diesel" crank (Now not just limited to L series fun for strokers!) As a side note, the block has over 150k on it and the bores are still within a thou of origional specs, there are no ring marks at the top and you can still see the factory cross-hatch. The crank has something on the order of a bunch more and still plasti-gauged at .002 on all the mains, using USED main bearings(only to check clearances). I love german motors. The Head! Intake side: Exhaust Side: CC's Anyway, sorry if you don't like absurd amounts of pics in detail, I'm kinda anal about logging everything. More updates in a few weeks, block's going to get hot-tanked and I'm on the search for 280CE rods and forged pistons.