MAG58

I feel PanzerAce is implying something... But I agree. Though if those are the kawi heads off of a ZX10R, it should SCREAM, that motor flat embarrassed the GSXR when it hit in 04.

So is adding two cylinders

I'm not sure that I feel comfortable shoving my mitts into something that amounts to a super cool blender on a bender. I like not having nubs thank you.

BRAAP, RTz, Phlebmaster, Skib, two of which are red (ew) are all from that area.

I hope you've got good fab skills, you're already going to have a nose heavy car and the 510 engine bay is small as it is, You're going to have to section the firewall just to get that big beast to fit. You're probably going to have to do a pretty substantial amount of work to the trans tunnel to get that big ol' RB25 trans to fit, and I'd definitely look hard at a R200 up rear, you can kiss that R160 good bye with anything but a stock RB. Very much not the option I'd go for anything but goin' fast in a striaght line, but it'll be cool no mater what, so go for it. Pics are a must. There are a bunch of guys in the portland area, so you're in luck as far as knowledge goes.

It came out of a JGTC 350Z factory car. It's a twin turbo, VQ30DETT. I think this is the exact car, not for sure though:

That just seems like a pain, doing it in the JY? It would be easier to just get the whole diff, is there that much price difference? You're Going to need a plethora of hammers, a BFH, and probably a decent press. Getting the carrier out wouldn't be a problem, but the pinion will be.

Man makes sense. I usually don't like the American V8, but it's very hard to ignore the results. Americans have been going fast in a straight line for years, and they've become good at it. I know if I was making a drag car that's the route I'd be taking. Any more, it would be equally as easy to toss a SBC with a worked over auto as it would be to toss in a high strung L6.

You know why the British drink warm beer, right? Because Lucas made the refrigerator! Anyway, I feel if they did come with a manual, it's going to be super rare, I looked at this motor once and I couldn't find one. However, the transmission does look like it has a removable bell-housing, this is from an XJ8 And I don't think that an all alloy SBC would be cheaper. Alloy blocks aren't cheap. MAYBE an LS1, but I've seen these motors go for pretty cheap on eBay.

I'm really excited for this, pics are a must, this conversion looks very promising!

The man makes complete sense.

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html#calc Again, from looking at this, 6 120cc injectors would support 1000hp, the big limiting factor is you'd have to use two pumps

Hmm... I gotta find my calculator for determining the correct amount of H20/Meth to spray, you'll be surprised to know it's quite a bunch. Not to say your idea is wrong, actually I'm very in favor of it since from the design you talk about it seems to be a very good atomizing implementation, just they may not be as small of injectors as you think...

Paul, let me know how many you're still short when everyone has their stuff. I've probably got a box of them at my folk's house... Just gotta find it..

Your idea would be great, the problem with headlight squirters is that they're designed to spray into a non-pressurized environment. You're talking major flow going into twice the pressure it was designed for (1bar+), it just seems a little risky to trust a squirter on a multiple thousand dollar engine build. Just me. Provided you can get a pump to flow enough, panzerace, you'll be good to go.

I had that problem hoov, turned out it was my master, it didn't allow all the fluid to bleed off the rear system.

Only Miami could produce that kind of.... thing.

That would be a sweet Idea. I think the problem with the idea of using a headlight squirter is that it simply cant flow that much at the required pressure to be useful. If you look at real meth pumps they dwarf most window squirter pumps. Not to mention the gauge wire they run

My local true value has all the nissan key blanks, oddly enough. There's LH & RH keys along with a barrage of slot widths to accompany them. I just took it in and matched it up to the corresponding blank.

Take a (22?)mm wrench and unbolt the bolts from the top. Should be under the trusses next to the strut towers.

Go to the eye doctor please. I had the same thing, they wash out your eyes and all is good. Blindness is a bad thing.

Lapping refers to "hand seating" the valves if you will. A lapping compound (basically grease with some grit mixed in) is applied to either the seat or the valve, then the valve is inserted and spun against the face. In doing so, the lapping compound makes a small 'cut' if you will on both the valve face and seat ensuring that both have 360 degrees of contact and the best possible sealing.

You could use Carbon Fiber... That would be hot.