MAG58

What kind of SC are you running? Roots or whipple? Maybe even centrifugal? THE person to ask these kinds of questions is Tony D, I believe that his job entails industrial application of air compressors. The thing you have to remember though, the correlation between compression, flow, and compressor speed are not linear, and depending on the blower in question have different values as well as different efficiencies. The Injector thing is a different idea entirely, it all depends on what your expectations are for horsepower and what SC you're running. Generally though MFG's shoot for about 80% duty cycle in their injectors (though some cars like the WRX Sti and Evo's are running pretty maxed out injectors from the factory) so you have a little room to grow, but not long before you'll need to upgrade. Luckily, turbo cars have bigger injectors and you can probably find Injectors from a turbo Supra (the us spec, I'm not sure if the euro car is US Or Japanese spec), RX-7, or in europe probably the C20 Turbo injectors and have it made.

I need to find myself some maple & sage now. Apparently I'll like it.

If it's the 3.0L It's the Mitsubishi 6G72. It's mighty brethren in twin cam form comes in the 3000GT and with twin turbo is good for 300hp. Great motor. Finding a RWD trans for one could be a pain though. The 3.3L is the chrysler EGA? (sounds right) engine and is pushrod all iron and may be a bit of a lead sled. Though I've never seen those motors close up so I couldn't tell you.

Are those double hump/camel hump heads? 1.94/1.5 or 2.02/1.6? And those headers look scary. Keep up the good work hoov.

He's right. Thanks to wiki... These engines use heads designed by Cosworth (Project KB) and the heads are reported to still flow better than the impressive Ecotec Heads. The final incarnation of these motors were stuffed in the Opel and Vauxhall Astra's Amongst others, the engine produced 156hp in NA form with a drop to 9.0:1 compression and the aid of 8.7psi, the turbocharged variant produced 204hp at 5600rpm and 210ft/lbs at 2100rpm. Pretty impressive numbers for a stock motor at those rev's if you ask me.

I too remember my first engine tear down... I think I was six. And it was a FormulaV motor. Good times good times. ...and you're not working on cars until they draw blood.

Unfortunately those motors never came into the states . I wish they did, I'd put one in my mini in a heart beat. At any rate, they were named (internally by GM) as the "ecotec", though this motor came before the "US" Ecotec. IIRC, they're completely separate engines and designs (I like the Iron block euro motor better) and during the CX reign in europe when these motors were fighting with the big boys like the Cossie motors and the array of German DTM derivied monsters, we were stuck with the ol' quad 4 and it's deravitives. The new Ecotec is company wide and has a new head design along with an Alloy block and (unfortunately) some accountant decided they needed to lop off 4 of the 8 counterweights on their forged LSJ crankshaft. Either motor is amazing really, in the pro FWD classes of drag racing, while most motors are afforded a max displacement of 2.8L (The Toyota tacoma 2.7 is huge in this class), the Ecotec was capped at (I believe) 2.2L, maybe even 2.0L and they still consistently made the finals.

I'd like to believe that treefer is the one that's lucky to have a wife that rags him to get ANOTHER car. If we were all so lucky.

Never! Just after the datto is done. A 400hp car with an 80in wheelbase sounds just deadly enough for me to take interest in.

Chrysler did it in the 60's to give the correct U-Joint geometry. Seems like a similar Idea...

Check out the 16V mini club, it's a british cite, but they have CRAZY motor builds. There's a few clipping 300hp and quite a few over 200 to the rollers. 300hp in a sub 1500lb car is... well. absurd. I've got the factory works alloy doors and hood from an ex works factory car I'm plan on using on mine. Once I get the whole datsun thing out of my system, I can seriously see a RWD tube frame Rotary mini in the pipeline. O.o

*hides in fear* If you want to do it, I'm not going to stop you, either method you go with will be a crazy amount of work. I will tell you with my project here's what you're going to need to do. Find a MB 104.98x cylinder head (no air-pump). Get all the timing schtuff. Turn crank to SBC demensions Machine off the oil sprocket so you just have the timing chain. Sleeve the timing gear and re-insert. Put in SBC Internally balanced pulley on it. take oil out of main gallery, run to back of head (split in to 4 galleys, externally accessable from back of head). Fill parts of head to Z HG using favorite aluminum filler. Pull rear freeze plug and tap to use AN for front and rear for cooling return. Tap Oil returns on exhaust side and run AN branch back to pan for oil return. Head bolts on using "b" length (long) head bolts in stock bold holes (with centering dowel pins removed) The valves are big, so an 87mm bore would be a must at least. Drive. My project is currently on hold since I'm holding out to put it on an 810 Coupe and for my Z I found all the bits to make a 3.4-3.6L AMG M104 for the same price as a hard run L28ET long block, and I couldn't pass up 600+ cc's in displacement for nothing. Your best bet is build it then post it. I tried the build in progress and it just didn't fly here. I'm all for something that's the long, hard way around (watch it) so PM me if you ever need a hand from the other side of the world

Well that's just not cool. Is it an A+ block (webbing on the side of the block) or at the very least is it drilled for the cooper S head (extra two head bolts at each end)? Still, a mini's a mini... There all fun and games until you put a 16v motor in one. Then they're terrifying.

Odd. Looks similar to my garage. Different colors and all, same cars . What are the specs on the MkIII?

From a chemical point of view, the purer the steel (iron is) the faster it will rust. So cars with very pure steel with rust like it's their job. Steel with more crap in it (Ni, Ca, N, Si, etc.) will rust slower because they are not as reactive as Iron is. American Steel=More crap in it.

Sweet, I've been thinking about getting JAW to control WB02 for MS. How do you like it? The EGT looks very nice as well, I may have to go that route.

Woo hoo! Hope your S30 gets sorted out with that new board. Then you can start having lots of fun

Phantom Grey Pearl is the official Toyota color code I used.

The fact that this is your DD def. changes things. Trying to keep the car as simple (less things to break) makes way more sense. Either way, congrats on a sweet build. ...And if you ever do decide to go nuts, it's not like we'll say no

Where do you have the motor sitting in relation to the axle centerline in front? I was just thinking getting the G35x hubs and springy bits and use the GTR box and front differential. Then You'd have attessa too...

Well that's a pretty nice build you've got. But would you mind if I played devil's advocate for a sec. Why not take the G35x front end and make an AWD 350Z? That would be crazy. Thought I'd throw the idea out there in the event you're feeling frisky. Nice Z33 though.

Looks interesting, What WBO2 are you running?

Ride in one on dirt sometime before you say it's not cool.

Winter

I feel that series Audi is one of the few that should be on the list (from Audi that is). It dominated the "golden era" group B rally for a reason. It made AWD and big turbo's mandatory and along with some of the rest of models of that era, revolutionized the sport. I feel that the Quattro is a big reason that Audi is big today.