Robftw

Just tried the sensor, same thing happens. I can disconnect the tps and it'll rev to 4k and cut out, but the second I plug it in and rev it blows black smoke and dies.

Haha, I wish it was that easy. im thinking its leaking injectors, just put a vacuum gauge on it and it sits around 21-23 between 700-900 rpm. (I do not have a bouncy idle, I adjusted it)

I will do that, in the mean time with another set of brand new plugs it will start run to 3k and then stop. the injectors are throwing so much gas into the engine that it will start and run for 5 seconds with all of the injectors unplugged.

I should also mention I never had any problems until I replaced the plug wires

I've gone over the tps and set it to factory, the afm has not been tampered with. all injector clips are corrosion free and fire the injectors the distributor, cap & rotor are all brand new. the plugs are also brand new. I just put new 7mm wires on it too and still the same problem. It gets spark, fuel and just wont rev over 2k. when the tps is unplugged I can get it to 3k rpm but it cuts out.

Could be your diffential rubber mount going out, check the leather strap on the nose of the r200 a good way to fix this is to get a pinion snubber installed. Search here or google for some results and how-tos

The car has stock efi with the cold start injector removed. Recently rebuilt motor, timing is set properly as it should be from the factory. I'm having an issue with an extreme rich running issue off idle, so much so that the plugs become wet and it dies. ive checked the tps and at idle the center & far right prong touch. after about 1/4 throttle or about 1500 rpm it releases the prong and starts to touch the far left prong and goes pig rich and dies, is this my problem? I can't find a definitive answer.

Angle plugs, 190cc if you are keeping it around 350-355ci you want the velocity from a smaller runner. as for intake don't bother with a crossram or tunnelram for autocross. Super victor or victor junior will be the way to go If you're building a high rpm motor make sure you get a 7qt oil pan with baffle plates and a windage tray

I'm not in california, but my machine shop charged me 300$ for a PAIR of chevy heads to be rebuilt + parts cost. In the end for all new retainers, seats, springs, hot tank, decked the head & 3 angle vavle job + 3 valves it was 600$ These parts were for a race motor too, not cheap oem replacements. I strongly reccommend searcing your area for an actual machine shop and go there.

Pmd

That's the correct starter

Honestly the biggest thing is cost.. I grew up with a bunch of old angry car guys and I really don't think the roller cams are worth the trouble. id have to retro fit my block too. Solid flat tappets also sound pretty sweet I like the old technology.

Pm'd

200cc intake runner 63.5 cc head. Ill be getting afr 210s after tax season. Cam is a hyd flat tappet .525 / .546 and I don't know the duration off hand, I think the part number was 10605 I'll be going with 600+ lift solid flat tappet whrn I swap to afr's right now im limited due to my heads

Studded the block with ARP goodies, You can see where klispies had to lighten the crank in this photo. Every counter weight has some material cut off. Everything In place, torqued down. God damn i hate measuring bolt stretch.. Gaskets and more ARP studs Last picture i took, The heads have since been torqued down and i'm about to visit home depot for oil pan bolts / balancer bolts & waterpump bolts

B&M stealth pro ratchet. you can modify the trans tunnel plastics to make it fit. This is a drag car so its gutted anyways

Alright time for a huge update, part's have been arriving and im going to assemble this on tuesday. The parts list has changed a little bit since i first started this thread! Scat procomp rods: Mahle forged coated pistons: These only weigh 395 grams each! Super Victor intake, i'm replacing the tunnelram Painting of the block: Had the pan rail clearanced so my crankshaft would fit:

I have this, worked when pulled. Put in dry storage since. http://imgur.com/bygSeuF

I believe the 1997 camaro starter is a gear reduction. It turns over my 12:1 compression 385 no problem, its just as small as those mini starters (maybe an inch longer) and only 150$ from autozone

Manual valve body and ratchet shifter definitely made it tolerable for me. I had a 700r4 for a while but recently switched to a th350 for racing.

Get some scat I beams and get it balanced, also 750 is a bit large for a 350. start with a 650 and go from there, I think a 750 would run that way rich

Performer rpm air gap will fit. I used to have one

Bump, no reply from either

Sent pms to both of you

Refreshing my buddies motor, have the following things for trade 27x11x3 intercooler, rated to 500hp iirc L24 9mm rods for stroker guys. very nice shape Ka24/sr20 swap mounts for s30 chassis Sbc edelbrock performer intake.