Robftw

It will be cheaper to build it yourself, but if I were you I'd just go with a gm goodwrench crate motor and never look back.

If you're getting a new clutch flywheel and pressure plate you'll just need the trans, bell housing, shifter, slave cylinder and the hose attached to the slave cylinder. I'm not sure if lt1 are externally balanced. If they are take the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel too if they are the Correct tooth count for your 400. I *think* all 400 blocks are 168 tooth spread bolt starters.

All the bellhousings are the same EXCEPT ls1 powered cars. You'll be fine with a camaro t56 / t5

I forgot to mention this earlier, I believe all 400s are externally balanced so you will need to get a weighted flywheel. I had one in my cars t56 set up. I don't remember the name. Clutch was an oem gm. Car only had 331 crank hp so it was okay. Now the car has 525/647 tq and blew up my 700r4 with slicks.

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/171683/

Do you have straight bolts on your 400 starter or spread bolts? Straight bolts need a 153 tooth flywheel, spread bolts need a 168

If you have a longnose th350 9" tailshaft you won't need to change your driveshaft. It's less than a 1/2 length difference if I remember correctly

Get a t56 out of a non ls1 powered camaro, it will bolt right up. The t56 is the same length as a 700r4 with a caprice tails haft housing (I think that's the car mine is off) it's the one with the mount holes on the bottom so it fits the Jtr cross member. Try and get one out of a 97 camaro I believe that's the year the added hydraulic clutch to it. I went from a t56 to a 700r4 and did not have to change driveshaft length.

Get a t56 T5 are garbage in comparison, I used stock pedals and a wilwood mc

Does it physically feel like something is blocking the return, or is it just slow? Try and get the cable level coming out of the firewall to the carb, and as for inside the firewall a nice slight curve from the gas pedal will help. Another thing you can do is get a stiffer spring and bracket. The bracket has a small hole on the end and a big hole for the bolt on your intake manifold. It is L ShapedThis should fix all your problems

I removed my rear end and axles, however my other half requires me to move the car for a few days.. Is it safe to put the tires on and roll it around without the axle shafts and rear end? And do they make replacement mustache bar (insulators?) - the bushings on mine are shot

Open diff's preferred, its being welded. It would be shipped to 14219

A larger Pan won't interfere with the crossmember, or the block hugger headers, the pan widens out towards the back of the block. Is your engine a 1piece rear seal by chance? I have an extra 7qt moroso pan. 1 rod hit it, but did not go through it, some aluminum was brazed into the dent's to give it some strength back. I cannot use it because the old block was destroyed, i have a 2pc rear seal now. It was 240$ or so new, 50$ shipped if you want it.

I use an MSD 8360 Pro Billet Chevy Ready To Run Distributor, its smaller than an HEI and has a built in rev-limiter function, Just get a summit racing gasket kit for the water pump / timing cover, mine had everything i needed in a single kit, i think it was 20$ How old is the dampner, i would replace it. I have a professional products 80001, its 6'' diameter and has a removable weight. Non-sfi approved, the sfi approved one is 90001 i think

this was happening to me, I got pissed and just swapped over some GM pulleys and went 5 rib serpentine no problems since

12:1 compression 385 stroker, i have no idea how much tq/hp it has because 2 days before the dyno i launched it at 2600 rpm and blew the diff.

Well the starter was tested, battery was tested (again) and they both worked, had the battery quick charged just incase. I'm dealing with a previous owner wiring mess right now too, what i noticed was the power wire going from the starter solenoid (that splits into the red/whites) is not giving 12 volts. I've replaced all of the battery cables and im still getting this problem, i'm going to re-wire the solenoid +12v right now and come back with what i find, its looking like the race track today is not going to happen. I'm gonna rewire the red white wires on the fusible links too into a maxifuse box

I get 12v out of the battery, its brand new and passed the load test (i actually tried both batteries i have, theyre both good) i think it might be the cable going to the starter, if i give the fusible links 12v directly all my accessories work and headlights, starter solenoid clicks.

I will attempt to check this as much as possible while continuing to trace wires on my own. The car has a fresh battery, when i turn the key to "on" i get power, but if i try to turn on my headlights relays click and all power to the car is lost until i turn the key to "off" and try again. It does this when i try to start it, turn on any accessories, and any lights. I have replaced the transistor pack already with a working unit, and i have replaced every relay with known working units... Going to check the starter +pos wire now (again)

That's the part im getting hung up on, the one on the firewall is a full blown proportioning valve, the one on the cars engine bay fender is also a type of proportioning valve, it also has the warning light switch in it.. if fluid goes to the fronts or rears more than the other the piston inside moves and trips it. However, it has 1 in, 2 front outs and 1 rear out.. I don't know if i can just remove it entirely. It's already unplugged and has been like that for 2 years now.

1977

Can the brake pressure differential warning light be bypassed? My line lock only allows for one line in, and one line out. I've searched and cant find an answer.. I drew a picture of how the brakes will be set up. if anyone has a suggestion on how to run the lines with the original warning light switch please post an ms paint drawing, this things boggling my mind on what would be "safest"

For what its worth, i took the extra step of flat out replacing my frame rails while i was doing the floors. They are stronger, safer and you can prep them from the inside out to not rust ever again. If you're willing to spend the money and do some extra labor, just replace EVERYTHING while you're there, this way 5-10 years down the road you won't have to do all that work over again.

Insurance will cover everything, no matter what the situation is the person behind is at fault nearly 100% of the time. I hope you called the police / took pictures and video. Goto the doctor tomorrow if you still feel sore, hopefully her dumbass has good insurance and will reimburse you. It's also a good idea to call a vehicle appraiser if you don't have anything on file for what the car is worth. that'll help you get money back to fix it.

For what its worth i used to have a T-5 in my car.. i went to a T-56 and its MUCH better, however with 3.9 rear end you gotta be doing 80 to cruise with the OD lol. I however am going automatic for racing..