slownrusty

I'm with Cody can't wait to see it on the car!

Awesome pics...Ivan's car..is frightening.

Sparky - Which GM vehicle should I say I need those sensors as the local parts stores do everything by year, make, model and the guys behind the counters are well....not the most helpful. Thanks Yasin

Gang - I have two questions (I have a E6X). 1) Where do you source sensors, I am looking for a new air temp and O2 sensor, plus my Haltech did not come with the Fuse Block Assembly...where do I got one of those? Also one of my injector clip that plugs to the top of the injector was missing when I got mine, so I need one of those bad boys too. 2) All the extra harness (and there appears to be alot!) that you did not use...did you just curl it up and hide it out of the way..or did you try and remove it to make it neat? Thanks in adavance. Yasin

WOW..that is sexxxxyyy!

If you do a search on http://www.zcar.com, Brian met up with Darius and talked about the status of his Z and yes they were getting pretty throttle happy on the streets with their Twin Turbo Vipers.

Thank-you for saying that!!!

True dat!

Handy chart..I need to reference that today ironically.

On my 280ZXT I used an Isuzu NPR IC and I routed both pipes infront of the radiator, as it seems pointless to let the heat from the radiator warm up the air in the pipe that has already been cooled down by the IC!! I have seen some guys wrap their pipe in foil to compensate. Here is what I did: I am upgrading my IC to a custom made unit and I had the outlets placed in such a manner that I can route the pipes infornt of the radiator once again. That Spearco is pretty nice but the location on the necks will dictate how you run your piping. I can take pics of this IC if you like. Yasin

Thought I would share this with you guys...WOW! Breathtaking... Yasin

Why don't we get together and go pay him a nice surprise visit.... I'll bring my lil friend: Yasin

Looking great....The B6T is one of Mazda's best made engines! Yasin

He said "Boo-yaka" hehehehe!

Well guys I went ahead and finally made my own three gauge pod for my 280ZX Turbo. There is ABSOLUTELY no reason that you cannot adapt the same to your S30 car as the A-pillars are VERY close. Cost: Approx $100-$125 Time: Pretty much a full weekend (15ish hours). Difficulty: If I can do it you can too...and I am pretty stupid...! Some body work experience would be good but not really needed. Material needed: 1) Fiberglash mesh 2) Any type of bodywork Bondo Duraglas type product + Cream Hardener 3) 100Grit and 220Grit Sandpaper 4) A Drill and small-ish bit and 3-4 regular self tapping screws 5) A Dremel or hope you have an extremely steady surgeon's hand 6) Some plastic containers you can throw away to mix the Bondo up in 7) Tape 8) Patience!! Here goes: Order the Miata Gen 1 Gauge Pods ('90-'98), I ordered these from Summit Racing and as I wanted to do a three gauge pod, I bought a 2 pod and a single pod as nobody makes a three gauge pod for the Miata and blended them together to make a 3 pod. Autometer Part Numbers 20661 and 20660. I experimented with over $200+ of pods and everything from Miata to Fox Body Mustang to Evo to Z32 so I know what fits and what does not. Trust me the Miata is the closest. The A pillar on my ZXT is 64mm wide and the Miata is 67mm wide and flares out to 72mm - so right away you know some work is going to be required to make it work and make it look slick. I am trying to achieve a clean factory look with no ugly screws and mis-fitting bulgy pieces - something that Mr.K might be give me the thumbs up. Many people say heat and re-shape...but I am still boggled how that might work as plastic and heat can get ugly and these Autometer Gauge Pods are a high quality very stiff injection molded plastic that would take alot of heat to re-shape and consequently if you are not careful will distort easily them with too much heat. So I stayed away from this option. Here is what you need to buy (of if you already have this stuff, which you should if you own a Z...LOL!! - you are off to the races!): Remove your factory OEM A pillar trim and try not break it...I broke mine...UG...so more repair will be required when I am done. Measure twice and cut once!!! Run a piece of tape down the side of the pods to act as straight line and trim the 3-4mm you need to make the pod actually match the width of your OEM A pillar trim. I used a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel and it sliced through that plastic like a hot knife in butter: Place the pods on your factory A pillar trim how you want them and drill some small holes and use 3-4 self tapping screws to keep them secure in place for the fiberglass Bondo stage. Also this will give you an idea of how much gap you will need to fill: Notice the light between the pod and the pillar!: Trimmed and fastened down (yes I like power tools...LOL!): Mix up your Bondo / Fiberglass concoction of choice. I started with a VERY strong metalicized Bondo product and use the Fiberglass mesh under it to bond this body filler to the pods and the A-pillar trim and also to give strength and bridge to gap caused by the wider pod. The first application looks like $a$$ but not worry it gets better as you sand it down and apply thinner and thinner lifts as you get down to the final stages. Here is the first ugly lift (and my new front mount IC as a table top!) And underneath, you can where my A pillar broke when I tried to carefully remove it! You can also see the fiberglass mesh...this is the key ingredient in this process, without this mesh the Bondo or what ever you use will crack and fall out in time...if anyone has ever done concrete work you will know what I mean: Sand...sand sand sand sand (dust mask recommended) and a few more lifts later - looking better: I then finished off the last few thin layers lifts with Duraglass..which incidently is a product I love to use: I used a Magic Marker to mark any surface irregularities, highlow spots or voids and then filled and sanded accordingly: Then done....!! Autometer take note! I will mount it in the car this weekend coming with more pics (so look for that post). I primed it in these two pics and the paint was still wet so could not mount it. I am going to wet sand it and then spary paint it the same color as my interior (red) to match and use Krylon Plastic Spray Paint. Not bad... I hope that helps anyone attempting something like this. My Best - Yasin

One of England's feeble attempt in the late '70s to save their drowning automobile industry....

Wow very coool....well I stand corrected and I am VERY happy to hear that you have such great contact to source parts! That is truly awesome. Sounds like you really have done your homework and that is the key for these rare birds. Looking at your pics does invigorate me...I feel like getting in my car and driving over to help you...heck I'm only one state away...! Im lived in Canada for many years, so I am curious which Nissan Dealership there can source parts for you. When I lived in Toronto, all my FJ parts were sourced directly from Japan. I'll be glad to help you out...sounds like you have some great spare parts already!!! Looking forward to more updates. Yasin

Wow neat! As much as I love the FJ, having one in the US would scare me as parts are impossible. I imported several brand new FJs even an FJ24 Crank and Rods many years ago and sold them within weeks of them hitting the shores here as parts are so rare and owners jump on parts...I just sold my last brand new (genuine zero mileage) FJ two years ago for more than you would pay for a front cut R33 RB26DET plus a tranny! I hope you have a contact in Japan for Australia? Yasin

The Capri was a very respected car in England and Europe and gave the BMW CSL some good run for their money at the Nurbugring and LeMans. There were three generations the last ones were made in the mid-80s. The smallest engines were a 1600 pushrod. The most luxurious ones had a the Ford Cologne 2.8L V6 called the 2.8i. There was also a 3.0L in the early generations as well. Tickford did a very nicely hopped-up one but was $$$. Aston Martin used to own Tickford. Yasin

That looks awesome Frank! The front spoiler is super sweet as well and I see a Starion IC under there as well! Yasin

Absolutely stunning!!! That baby is going to flow! Yasin

I'm 100% in! Looking forward to it!

Turn it into this:

Damn Clifton...30+ psi of boost....now thats respect!