srgunz

Remember also that we have sent a NAVY carrier group to aid with hospital care and helicopters to ferry supplys and injured. Imagine what that alone costs per day. I doubt this is even included in the $350M. I have not yet seen the list of Nations with amount given to the relief efforts of the Florida hurricane victims. The Muslim oil rich nations should be in the lead with Billions in aid not the crummy millions pleged. $10M from Saudi Arabia? That is a weekend shopping trip for the King's girlfriend.

Include Hollywood in that list too. And don't forget Michael Moore, the face and new leader of the Democratic party. Then they might have a chance in 2008. Oh thats right it was just announced today that MoveOn .org now owns the Democratic party.

Unfortunately you cannot win a war by being moral and politically correct. To defeat Japan we had to become as brutal and more to do so. For the Allies to defeat Germany we had to also be as brutal if not more. We tried to have a politically correct war in VietNam and it cost 55,000 lives. Had we fought the war correctly such as the total devastion of North VietNam from the air with our B52's it would have ended much earlier. That is why we built B52's in the first place. To save lives. Saddam was able to keep control because he was more brutal than the terrorists. That is the only thing terrorists understand. You need tought bastards, like it or not, such as MacArthur and Patton, to get the job done. You got to do what you got to do, incl. torture if necessary. We have the people now to do it if we let them do their jobs. But all the hand wringer Liberals along with ABC, CBS, NBC, CNN, etc. will not let that happen. I served 4 years of active duty and have no regrets. It helps me see this whole thing more clearly.

Are you using Air Cond.? If not use the A/C circuit. The fans will not exceed the A/c load. Your car was set up to use A/C so the alternator is sufficient.

I have a wire diagram just for the lighting for a 240. What do you have, 240, 260, 280? So you fixed the hazards and now brake lights quit working?

I got your PM. Thanks. I should be able to make it on a Sat. or Sun. I will bring my 72Z if I do not break it before then.

My 240 was also darting badly on uneven roads. I checked my toe setting and found it to be 1/8" toe out. I reset to 1/8" toe in. The darting problem is much better. I still have some that I suspect is a bumpsteer problem as mine is lowered about 1" from stock. I am going to try those strut spacers next to see if that helps as well. The steering is much easier also.

The one that I have is held in place by the same bottom nuts (4) that hold the front and rear carb to manifold. I do not have a photo but I could probably draw it.

That MSD magnetic wire is used only for crank fire set ups, not yours. Wire using white wire according to the diagram that says amplifier style ignition. No wires will go directly to distributer. It should work fine.

Jake I have mikunis but the theory is the same. It sounds like your idle (low speed) jets are too lean. I had the same problem. To get rid of it I ended up with 62.5 idle jets. It is now instant response when I hit the throttle. The weber book I have recommends 55F2 idel jets for a stock L24 or L26. So depending on your motor you may even go bigger than 55.

I think yours is wired the same as the 240's 5 wire switch. The wire colors may be different though on yours. In the start (momentary) position 2 wires are connected to power. One goes to the starter (blk/yel) and the other (grn/wht) goes to the tachometer first, then back out to the coil positive.

I also run just the air horns and my had been acting the same for quite awhile. In fact after I shut it off and let it sit I could actually see gas seepage on the air horns. This spring I installed a pressure guage. Its runs 3 psi. so I figured that was not the cause. My carbs have the grose-jet ball and seat instead of the regular needle and seat. What I did was pull the inlet hose off each carb and squirted carb cleaner down the fuel inlet to clean the ball and seat. That did it for mine, no more seepage. What I think happens to my Z is that it sits for 7 months then drive 5 months. During storage the gas in carbs evaporates and was leaving varnish on the seats causing them to leak. Good luck.

Never had a 280Z but on the 240 the power comes from the ign sw. to the tachometer then out to the coil positive. The power runs thru a core and coil set up on back that inducts a pulse to trigger the tach. That is about all I can help with.

Randy of Custom Auto Interiors made them in leather as I too was looking to buy a set. I cannot find his website anymore so I don't know if they are still around.

RCNSC- Thinking about what you said, yes I believe it would start without the key. However as soon as you release the button it should immediately shut off. Is that what you are talking about? The only way it should keep running is to have a key in ign. and have it turned to the run position. To kill the power to the start button, install a on/off toggle sw. ahead of the PB sw. That should take care of everything.

Here is how my 72 works. I am sure your 71 is the same. The power wire is wht/red. Don't remove it from switch but tap into it and run to one side of PB switch. Then you can cut the blk/yel and the grn/wht, then attach both of those on the other side of PB switch. The blk/yel will then send pwr. to the starter solenoid. And the grn/wht will then send pwr. to the coil. The key will have to be in the run position to start. What I have given you above is what the ign. sw. does normally in the start position.

Off hand I don't know about the no start, but if you have a 72Z, the car is prewired for elec pump. They are in front of fuel tank on pass side. That way pump will work thru ign. switch. Unless you want to have it wired the way you have for a reason.

John, When you take off the clip and washer onfront of booster, pull rod all the way out. Take a flashlight and look in bottom of cannister. You should see the black disc there. We just used a long needlenose pliers to retrieve mine as I recall. A dab of brake caliper grease works good to keep disc stuck back onto rod until it is seated back in place. Having done this once, I maybe could do the whole operation with booster on car. I know it is a pain to remove and reinstall.

When you put the old cylinder back on, make sure you put the rod adjustment back to where it was. Remember to carefully measure both cylinders like I said in my other reply. If they do measure the same, the rod stay's at its origional length. I went thru similar problem. It was the reaction disc falling out of place. If one plays with the rod at all, the disc falls to bottom of cannister. When it does you will NEVER get any pressure. You will need to get the booster on the work bench and put disc back. See your FSM.

Before you make any arbitrary rod adjustments. Measure both m/cyl. Measure from end of cyl. to the two bolt flange. Next with a dial calipers using the depth measurement end, measure from end of ctl. body to the piston in side the cyl. If both cyls. are the same it is not the rod length. As far as bleeding, once you do the m/cyl. itself you can bleed the front end first or back first if you want. The systems are seperate and it makes no difference.

Have you set the correct clearence between the booster pushrod and the mastercylinder piston? You will not lock up any brakes if that gap is too great.

bastaad525, I don't know if you have the stock radiator like myself but I had the exact same problem as yourself. On the highway at anything over 60mph the temp would start to creep up. In traffic it was good. I ended up taking the radiator in to have cleaned out and flow tested. They called me and said it was only flowing 40% of what it should. The only thing they could do was recore it. I had them put in a triple core as long as it was being replaced anyway. Now I can keep it at any speed I want and the guage stays rock solid in the center. Best thing I ever did.

I believe there is currentlyabout 18 cobra kit suppliers. Some are aluminum and most are glass so prices really vary. A lot of the guys that own them think that Kirkham has the best aluminum car. http://www.kirkhammotorsports.com

If yours is a street motor, I would stay away from forged. Not necessary and too expensive. I would snap these up if they still have them. They are .030 over. 240Z O/S pistons Assuming you have a L24 that is.

Actually you want to disconnect the NEG cable. Put the voltmeter red lead on the battery neg terminal and the black lead to the neg battery cable. Now begin unplugging things one at a time. Start with the alternator. Many times that is the culprit.