Yes found it after RTz posted. For blind folks like me and for simplicity, I think seperating the two and renaminng, "View New Content", to "New Posts" would be much more descriptive.
Just my opinions.
Chris, did you find the bag of plastic rivits I gave you in the zip lock? You can also find those on ebay. This is what I gave you here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/20-DATSUN-TRIM-PANEL-RIVETS-90467-06054-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem439a07904eQQitemZ290346995790QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Problem found and solved thanks to Chris Leon. He checked the car out before I sold it. He found that the rear driver side strut tube nut was loose about a quarter of an inch. Tightend it up and the hop / shudder went away under heavy accleration and so did the clunking! Completely makes sense now. Wish I would have taken it to him sooner for a look.
The nice thing is I learned something.
He hasn't posted in awhile, but his race car is coming along nicely.
I did an advance search, with only "Search Title Only" checked and put in Datsun in the "Find words" and nothing was returned? Tried also Turbo or weber and nothing.
What am I doiong wrong?
I was not aware that you can use the 280zxt Companion flanges with this swap. You need to get the MM ZX conversion flanges.
Maybe I've miss read what you said?
These:
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=5
I'd pull the valve cover to see if all the rockers are in place too. Before doing that I would pull the plug wires off one by one and see if you can tell if the motor drops down a little one by one when idling, then do a compression test and then pull the valve cover if either one of those two checks seem off.