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I just got myself a bike not to long ago, i took a friend with me to check it out that has been riding for 4 years and has went through a few bikes. Had him test ride it and i test rode it. 2006 zx6r (636). I looked for any and all parts that would be damaged in a crash, leaks, oil level and color, same things as a car sorta. I'm 200lbs 6'2 and its a little cramped but its not uncomfortable. Best advice everyone has given me is "Ride like your invisible"

Ordered my clutch finally. I get to get back under the z.

My car has been down for 3 months for a 500$ clutch i still cannot afford.

I looked at my z sitting in the same spot for the last 3 months no motor no trans. I occasionally sit in the drivers seat and make turbo noises and do hard boost pulls with neck snapping action.

So a friend and i started up a motor in a z that he had for a while and it ran fine then started making these weird noises that we have never heard before. Attached is a video. As stated in the video who ever guesses what the noise is will get 50k interweb pointz. Until then we will keep driving it. I think its just an exhaust leak or something, he thinks its a massive cam. Enjoi-

Fg front duct work w/ trimable[sp] panels.??

I believe that's only if your using the larger toyota calipers.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=86732 what i bought to get me started, and i used 84 z31 turbo rotors front and rear. If that year hub fits on the spindle then i would get the same year rotors. I'm not 100% on that though. And i think it depends on what brakes you will be running as well. The different rotors may be different thicknesses and or dimensions.

Glad someone got it.

Just left there they had a 81 280zx turbo complete nothing has been touched this is as of 9:32am. engine looks rebuilt and is very clean. Someone painted the block red and the head just clean. Its an auto and still has the ecu, none of the wiring is cut. Just letting everyone know around the bayarea that its in there. And i believe that they guy said it would be under 300$ complete no trans.

Hella clean

Hi hybridz, Most dont know me some do but i have been around for a while now reading and what not. I started my swap last year and i just got the motor mounted on some temp mounts just to get it going. Its kinda hard to do a swap when you work everyday and you need a DD. Any ways i used 3/16 mild steel to make my mounts out of which might or might not hold not 100% but that's what i felt comfortable welding with so i went ahead and made the mounts. Also i have no clue how to weld and was never taught this is what i came up with after 4 days of 2hr practice sessions. Did both sides and had the motor mounted in the engine bay finally! Then i sat it on the ground to check the oil pan clearance and its near the same as the l28 hangs just a "smigget" lower. I finsihed the trans mount as well but i have no pics of it when i pull the motor again to install the clutch and flywheel i will snap a few pics. I have a question will the 3/16 mild steel i used hold up or should i go with 1/4 mild steel. i jumped up and down on the motor 215lbs and it didnt crack or bend or anything.

A Friend of mine added a bit of padding on the door panel that goes up against the dash for pressure so when he hits the button it pops it open just enough to open the door by the glass frame.

Anypics of your motor and tranny mounts. Heres mine dont mind the engine mount there it was just temp to get all the clearances correct.

If you pay real close attention its a early z. The hatch glass has the vertical defroster lines.

thats my car lol and it was only for cinco de mayo.

that was to the seller. but i was in the wrong thread

I will trade you a l28 with 2 clutch sets 2 flywheels, and a 4spd. should be worth near 250ish. let me know

Im 6'2 210. I can fit in my "hatch" no prob. It helps if you mount your seats low and keep the ride soft other wise you end up hitting the roof with your head which is bad.

Not sure if they have gaskets in them didnt see it, but i know there is a spring inside them. Here is my story with mine hope it helps. A few days ago my z w/ 4screw su's and e12-80 dizzy was doing the same thing. I changed everything from the plugs, cap, rotor, and fuel filter ran the car for a day and happened again. I pulled the carbs and took the tops off where noticed that the atf i had put in them (i was told its okay) had run out and they were dry causing them to drop really fast. I cleaned the carbs really good with carb cleaner, cleaned the floats pretty much every where i could get the carb cleaner nozzle into. Put them back together and filled them up a bit with the atf and the car ran even better. Once again few days later it was worse than ever. I couldn't make it over 35mph and cut off at every light. So i parked it and sat in a chair staring at the car and i thought let me pull the fuel pump and see what it looks like inside. I popped the top off it and bam! filled with 30yr old crud it was so caked up inside the filter it was impossible to tell there was a filter actually in side it. So i cleaned it out shook and drained the tank.I then bought 3 gallons of 100 octane and 6 gallons of 91, filled it up and had the best day of my z driving life. Been running great ever since.

For the guys running 17 or 18 wheels with offset higher than +25 are you running spacers. Im looking to upgrade to some wheels a friend is selling they are 18x8.5 +25 front and 18x9.5 +25 rear. They fronts clear but just barely mabey a 10-15mm spacer would make me feel better. Then in the rear i would need about a 1.5in spacer to get it to clear. Both wheels have 225/40/18. Pics in the morning. Also what type of spacers are you using the splip on or the bolt on.

LOL. My grandma does that and scares the hell outta me. I just coast up to the stop, if its green i just go around and hug the corner. If someone is tailing me to close i will stop far from the limit line and just creep up really slow.

Got everything torqued and cleaned up. Went to look for my brake lines to put them on and i found 1 and went back out side to see my chewing on something. As i got closer i realized what it was my friggin brake line. So i made my own ebrake adapters crossed the lines installed the calipers, rotors, and pads. I went back gathered all my old parts to box up and the stock stub axles had a washer or shim laying next to each of them that i didn't see. Im guessing the went between the bearing and the companion flange and i did not transfer them over, not that they would fit becuase the 280z is larger i dont think it will cause any problems so im going to drive it around after i get another brake line and see how it goes.

New question with problem. I got the bearings packed and installed into the housing along with the mms re drilled five lug stub. Put on the companion flanges went to the fsm and it says i need to torque down the stub axle nut to 181-200+ ft/lbs and my torque wrench only goes up to 150ft/lbs. I called around and no one has one that high and to keep from going to shops can i torque it down to 150ft/lbs then use a breaker bar with lets say a jack handle and put a few more ft/lbs on it 181-200+ is a wide range so i cant really go over and i would just be under by a tad if anything. Random thought why is it called a torque wrench and its a ratchet?