fastzcars

corzette, So what is the max timming set at. What RPM is the timming all in, and what valve springs are you using? I'm asking because I have a very similar setup, and I'm running out of steam by 5500 to 5600 rpm max.

you can try http://www.darkhorseperformance.com or http://www.Fortesparts.com or http://www.D&Dperformace.com Try a search on T56, see what shows up.

That engine is SWEEEEET. Man if I hadn't already installed my chevy, I'd install one tomorrow.

Corzette,are you already planning an upgrade? man I'm jealous. Two great looking cars.

I talked to John Willams about those bumpers , He said the mounting brackets had to be modified quite a bit for them to work.

I'm in as well.

You know guys, I probably got close to 20g's in mine. I stop counting 2 years ago at 15g's. But the feeling that I get when I start that car, and the windows in house are rattling, puts a big stupid grin on my face.

Lets see, 73" z with the following. 383 scb w/ lakewood bellhousing,T56 trans.R200 w/ quaife. 300zxt cv's. Recaro's SRD seats. full interior. Vintage air A/C. 6 point roll bar, subframe connectors. Full roll of brown bread sound deadner. 1/2 tank of a 12 gallon ATL fuel cell. Drum roll please. 2780 lbs. I really thought it was going to be much closer to 3000.

Could you post some pictures? Second, I welded the bottom half of the miata rack and the top half of the Z. It's works fine with just the one joint. A side benefit is the the the new steering shaft is now further away from the motor, thus creating more space for the driver side header.

Hi BOB88. welcome to the board. I wouldn't even wory about soup'n up the motor just yet, Just install the motor and drive it. Even at the low end of HP, the V8 will add plenty of power for you.

Well you run the risk of scratching the piston's surface if you use a screw driver or any hard metal tool. As far as the amount of time , I would wait until you are ready to used them to rebuild the calipers. When I pulled some calipers for my truck at the pick a Part, The caliper had crystelized dry brake fluid. I Took them apart,polished the piston and rebuilt them just fine.

If you have access to compressed air you can push out the pistons that way. BUT BE VERY CAREFULL!!!!!!. Wear eye protection ,for break fluid can spray out when the piston are forced out of there. Also be careful where your fingers are, place a piece of 1/8 to 1/4 inch plywood to catch and cussion to piston.

so what are the sizes for both rotors? Do they have the same offset and thicknes at the mounting surface to the stub axel?

Cr@p, you guys are right. Man do I feel like an @$$.

Anonomous. I searched and found a web site for you http://www.extreme4wheelin.com/tech/alternators/tech.htm

Zfan. I have the same K&N filter assembly on a holley 3310 carb, and a Edelbrok RPM air gap intake and no JTR crossmember spacers. I have 1/2" clearence. But I only lost 1 hp and 1.5 ft lb with the filter on, Maybe because the hood was up on the dyno?

Man it must be nice having that kind of talent in the family.

You know that Lakewood scattershield has got to weight at least 60 to 65 lbs alone. That thing is 1/4 inch thick hydroformed steel. On3go, Which car are you talking about weighting. The Hulk or Ole blue?

What part of California are you located? You could try a new shop in San Juan Capistrano , they go by the name of Vildini Motorsports. There phone No.(949)364-3134.

Man that really sucks. Can you send them back? Or maybe make some spacer's. Or maybe sell them, i'm sure some here would buy them.

I just got back from a recycler. They have truck scales. Anyway, It came out to 2780 lbs. I was expecting closer to 2950, since I added a 6 point roll bar, subframe connector's, heavy Recaro seats(they weight at least 30 lbs each) , A/C, power steering ,a lakewook scatter shield and a T56 trans.not to mention a ton of brown bread insulation. I'm actually pretty happy with the weight. I know A lot of you guys are probably saying "Thats Alot" But I was building a street car with all the creature comforts.

Have you tried Motorsports Auto. They have the brackets in stock. and they are under 50 bucks. I don't think that a machine shop will charge you any less than that.

I'm pretty sure the turbo cv's are 4 bolt and the non turbo are 6 bolt. I know that sounds wierd. you can try calling Zbarn to make sure.

I had problems withe the blaster SS coil. A friend and I bought them at the same time and place, and they both went out within a week from each other. We took them back and got the blaster HVC coil. You know the blue one with the large heatsinks the partno is 8252. Never had problems again. I would change the coil first.

can we show up at the door? or do we need a reservasion.