fastzcars

Badaad525. I have wilwoods and kvr green pads. I have the same issue, but not a soft pedel, I just have to push a little harder to get the car to stop. after 2 to 3 stop signs it's all warmed up and stop's normally. I just have to be careful taking the car out of the garage and down the street. I think it's normal. Is the soft pedal feel taking longer to go away since the replacment the caliper's? and or pads?

Glad to hear your keeping it. I went through it 3 to 4 times during my build , And now it's back at the body shop for more repairs. We love'm. we hate'm. we love'm again.

Just an update guys I just down loaded pictures of the subaru Rack and the mods needed on the crossmember to fit it in. Here's just a sneek peek

Ak-z . I got the forester rack because it was the only one avail. Allthe wrx rack's get snatched up. Besides I wanted to slow down the steering compared to the Miata rack's really quick response. Although I did get use to it. I won't be done with the install until I get my car back from the body shop.

Buzy. I can't tell if yohave a cage in your, but I purchase a sparco 14.5 inch ralley wheel and if felt great with just the right amount of dish, But the first time I turned the wheel to the left I hit my elbow on the roll cage's driver side diagonal bar. Man was I pissed. I had to buy another wheel, this time a 13 inch momo. Bingo, no more brused elbow. Then the steering got too hard, That started me on a path to the power steering thing, So I mounted the miata PS rack. Man you change one thing, and the domino effect takes place. Anyway, back to your car. The larger wheel will give you better steering leverage for parking . The smaller wheel will give you more road feel/ quicker steering. But it's harder to steer. That's why they come so big in stock form, so it's easier to manuver around town.

Well DavyZ, miata rack is offset to the passanger side. So the passanger side tierod is shorter bt and iinch than the driver. So on some past post's here, someone said that the subbaru's rack is the same size as the stock Z's. So I went to a recylcer and confirmed that indeed the rack's inner meassurement is 25 inches. I purchased the rack and I'm trying to install it now. The problem I'm running into know is that the subi's rack's input and output fittings areon the back side of the rack so they are hitting the crossmember. I had to make a very deep and large cutout to make roon for the fittings. The miata rack's outlet's are on top, so they clear the crossmember. But as they say, if there's a will, there's a way. I'll get it installed.

I took the BEAST on the MSA show autocross course in California Speedway. It was great. Very direct. Although it's a little twitchy on the freeway, I got use to it. As far as the install is concerned it's NOT a bolt in. The crossmember has to be modified in 3 places. The tierod ends have to be cut 3 to 4 inches and rethreaded. and the steering shafte from both the Z and the miata have to be cut and rewelded together. Then metric to -4 and -6 adapters were needed for the high pressure lines to the GM remote resevor pump. A Zoop's bracket to mount the pump to the driver side of the engine was also needed. It took me a better part of a month and a half to figure everything out. I had the crossmember modified by a local Z repair shop, and I did the rest. It's was not easy , but I think it was worth it. Now there were concerns of bumpsteer because the miata rack is wider at the inner tierod joint's by 2 1/2 inches. I didn't feel any, but then again the autocross was very smooth, and on the street's I don't drive fast enough around bumpy corners to feel it. Still ,I'm in the proccess of installing a 2004 Subaru Forester rack during the repair proccess of my car now.

Here are some pictures I took last year of my miata power steering install.

That's great. Good to hear you figured it out. Now go terrorized the the local's.

maybe this will help you guys.

Sometimes the if the distributor advance spring are TOO soft. That can't control the weight's still. Is the timing steady under the 2800 rpm ? I would also check the top bushing of the dissy. I find that if I run into problems I can't find I just walk away from it and start all over and not take ANYTHING for granted. What I mean's don't assume that the dissy is alright just because is was rebuild last year. For example last year I had my motor rebuilt with all new internal's, When I started the car It would die when the temp's would reach 180 degrees. I checked every possible thing. I even had an ASE certified mechanic check it over. He couldn't find the problem either. So I just started over and determined that the motor was the problem. Sure enough when I pulled the motor out, I found that the piston's had scuffed the bores. It was machined 1 thousand's too small. Not enough piston clearence. So just don't assume anything.

what Model distributor are you running? I think we need more info on the components you have to help you out. It could be the dist. pickup module. or a loose connection to the MSD box. And you buddy. is right by telling you not to drive it until you can sort this timing issue out. You said you just got the motor back together, did you happen to torque down the timming chain and sprocket to spec's. I always use some blue locktite on the cam sprocket bolt's just to make sure the sprocket stay's put. Some times and really worn out timing chain can do what you discribe.

Hi Alex. I just wanted to say that I picked up one of alex's hoods this week and all I have to say is that they are SWEET. very straight and smooth. I don't think any one would be disapointed with one.

Man I hate to hear things like that. I'll also keep and eye out..

You could try redline track events, if you want some track time.

yap, you have to pry out the short stubs out of the diff first. There are circlips holding them in. A quick jerk of the pry bar should loosen them up.

I knew thw fan would work for you Hans, last time we talked. I'm glad it worked out. By the way, very clean install.

Hi guys. I need you guys help to find some leads for the whole front and rear suspension for my 240z. Like the Z-Barn only local. I'm looking for a local source in the los angeles area. The body shop needs them to be able to roll the car around the shop and to put the car on the frame straightener. Thanks guys.

So from what car are they from?

tell me about it dr hunt. I guess I was lucky a made it out with only a sore butt.And I was also lucky that out of 12 shops I called I got one that was willing to LOOK at my car. And I was also lucky that I shopped through 6 different insurance companies to find just the right one that was willing to give me the appraised value coverage that I was looking for. Yap. I was sure lucky.

Just an update.The adjuster from Hagerty gave the O.k to the body shop to do the repairs on my car!!!!!!!. I don't want to say how much, but let's just say. ALOT!!!!. But I'm getting all new suspension, wheels,tires and quarter panels. NO BONDO JOB HERE. The shop was recommeded by a local Z restorer. Man is this place clean , and the owner love's muscle cars. They got a 69 mach1, auston healey w/ ford v8. and an assortment of BMW M3's . I feel really comfortable leaving my baby here. Will see how long it'll take to get her back. Wish me luck guys.

all four wheels are going different directions. Surelly all the suspension pieces are gone. I think all I can truelly save would be the Engine,trans, diff, interior. I can't believe the glass is intact. I know what's sad was that the body didn't have any bondo. It was all straight metal.

damn , That's a garage job? SWEEEEEET!!!!!!.

Well here she is.

Don't swet it PopN wood, that was a funny comment.