fastzcars

O.k. I'll try one more time. I'll list prices for the most BASIC of basic installs. maunel $34. conversion kit $275. new motor mounts from autozone $45 . headers $170. radiator $140. radiator bracket $65. Electric fan( from a junkyard) $25. new Drive shaft $300 or have your shortended for about $200. Hoses $30 to $50. There you have it. The drivetrain, the car, the cost of the exhaust and so on is up to you. The price's I got are from Jagsthatrun (a.k.a. JTR )website. I hope that helps.

Welcome to the board 93TA. I've seen cars built for as little as 2 to 3 grand to as much as 25g's. It really all depends if you don't get caught in the "Might as well" syndrome. For example I budgeted 10 grand for my car. Now I ended up with over 20. Everything on my car is brand new. from the trans to the seats. I know Alot of guys will tell you to use the search function here. So try a search on Jagsthatrun. Jags That Run is a web site that sell a kit for the SBC. Broken kitty is another that sells a kit for the new gen3 LS serios of engines. Try a search you'll find ALOT of info.

Thanks guys for your input. They are polished not chrome. I was thinking of painting the centers the same silver as my car, with the polished lip. I'll have to get 5 lug front hubs and have my rear axels redrilled.They only come in 5 lugs. I'm looking to get them in 17x8's all around.w/225x45 and 245x40's, front and rear.

I've been thinking of changing wheels, Since I value you guys opinions, what do you guys think?

Bartman. I'll have to dig up the invoices. I didn't buy the kit at once,I purchased the kit in 2 parts, the inside evaporator and then the other pieces. How fast do you need the part numbers? I think I bought the smallest high eff. condensor. As far as your compressor bracket, call VA. they have like 20 to 30 differnt brackets on there website. In fact, they were the one's that recommend the condenser sizeI needed. I gave them the measurement of the radiater opening and they did the rest. I would also recommend to use there proline bulkhead plates that mounts on the firewall. You see that way if you needed to disconnect the heater or A/C hoses, you could do it in the engine compartment and not get fluid all over the interior.

Qwik24. I did have some troublewith the hose routing of the defrost hose, but the unit was small enough to remount it closer to the driver to gain more space. I would recommend that the dash be pulled out. It made it a hell of alot easier to make the unit fir just right. I had also had to remountit closer to the passenger side because the gas pedel was hitting the unit. There are 2 other straps that are not seen in the photos, that cross down in a V pattern to support the front of the unit. I chose the mini becayse I didn't want the A/C to be seen from the passanger compartment.Not like the original unit that was in there. There are also 4 hoses coming from the engine compartment to the inside that takes up some interior space.

I just updated the webpage address on my profile. Try it again. My is a lONG story. It's still at the body shop. they had to cut and reweld on a new front clip from the firewall forward. I'm tild it will be ready for the drivetrain reinstall by the end of November. I hope.

I installed the mini version. It was more than enough air for my car. I think I have just a couple of pictures on my yahoo page. Sorry I don't have access to my pc to down load the rest of the pics I have. I'm at work right now.

sbc400, do you own a shop? Who's doing the work for you.

That is some work. Looks more like a NASCAR than a Z. SWEET.

I was going to ask that same question. How do you put back the reaction disc? How could you tell if it's out of postion? I only asked because I had to remove the booster from my car and I want to make sure it's back in place when I reinstall it.

Yep I agree with jamiet. All the broken parts posted here will help other guys in ther quest to lay down the power. By the way, impressive dispaly of carnage, way to go.

They just came out, and they'r already suffing them? Man I wish I had the cash.

The same thing happened to my fan , I used the factory connector, and it was faulty. I cut the connector off and it worked. I think that's why the tauruas' are there. You know the connector goes bad, the fan stops,the motor over heats and away it goes to the junkyard.

Sweet Mother. Those are some impressive numbers. I only have 350 rwhp and my car scares the crap out of me. I can only imagine how 489 feels like!!!

Shortbed, those headers will probably hit the firewall. I personally have Hedman tighttube block hugger headers, They have alot of cleareance to the steering shaft. Although Myplasticegg is right on the sandersons. do a search on Sandersons, you'll get quite a bit of info.

I've never seen or heard of that upgrade before? And I've been a member here for a few years now. Is the kit on ebay made for the Z32? You may want to e-mail Ross C at Modern MotorSports and pick his brain for info.

I'm going to try the wilwood master part number 260-7563. It's a 1 inch dual master. it look's like a very easy install. I may have to refit the fittings though, because it's a 3/16 thread and the Z's a 10 mm fitting, but I have the flaring tool to do it. Summit Racing has them for $111.00 .

Them very impressive number's. Good go'n

Do you have a volt meter? Check the output of the alternator right at the main output post. The one with the large gauge wire. I thinks its white with a red stripe. You should get 14 volts if the atl is charging.How is the ground at the battery? I would check also the ground wires at the passanger side frame rail. Most of the grounds in the engine bay go there. How did you check the alternater? You should also have a constant 12 volts at the small white wire to the regulater and a switched 12 volts to the black w/ white stripe wire, also at the regulator.

Man, I know what you mean. That feeling of violation really gets to you in your gut.

bimmerman, the topend performance bar can be used but it has to be modified slightly to clear the air cleaner. I just placed a floor jack in the middle and spread the front bar closer to the front, maybe about and inch. It actually mad the bar fit better because my upper strut mounts were too close together. You know manufacturing tolerances. Hope that helps.

DAAAAAM, sweet. sweet. sweet motor.

Ya it's in the details that make the difference.

Ya Project. I wouldn't put powersteering in an SR20 engine s30. TOO Light and twitchy.