fastzcars

Lewis. Is the problem with the compressor monut to the block? Is it that the stock location will not fit in the engine bay? The evaporator inside the cockpit doesn't care ware the compressor is, as long as you can make a hose long enough to reach it. For example my hoses from the inside exit the passanger side of the engine bay and the compressor is at the driver side of the engine. I have a 6 foot long hose aroung the back of the motor to connect the two. Maybe Alex (SR240) would know of a front wheel drive platform that would have an sr20 engine that you could use a bracket off of.

I installed the miata rack in, and it did take me a while to get used to the quick steering. but you get used to it . But on an autocross course the powersteering does come in handy. You could almost drive it with one hand, it's just 2 1/2 turns lock to lock.

Put the a/c in lewis. I put a VintageAir unit in. And I don't regret it, it sure makes the car much more comfortable around town in traffic.

the easiest way to put an R200 in would be getting the R200 long nose the rear diff support mustache bar and possibly the front support crossmember from a 77/78 280z. The 240z axels should bolt up to the diff. You might want to do a search just to confirm this. I would suggest calling the Zbarn.com they have a "kit" That they could supply you with all the the parts you need for a conversion. Although the shipping of the diff to canada could be expensive. At least call them to get the lowdown on the parts you need.

I don't think it will help, it might make the car TOO sensitive/twitchy .Now if your car has a V8, a/c and and wide tires. then it would make a difference in the slow/ parking manuvures.

Nice job. I wish I could do that kind of work.

I don't think they would fit also. The first gen mustangs did come with the 4x4.5 bolt pattern. I know because I purchased 14x7 american mags from a Z that fit my 65 mustang back in college. I'm running 17x8 centerline with 5 inch bachaspace and they fit perfectly in the wheelwell's. But I am running coilovers.

260det I noticed that the suspension is from a falcon. I don't know if that car's platform is made here in the U.S. or is it?

You know I was thinking the same thing while my car was in the body shop. I was thinking og a Miata front suspension swap. But the setup you posted does look doable.

did you try soaking the area of the spindle with WD40 overnight? Use a larger hammer.

There's a small retaining pin holding the large pin in place. Look for a small 10 mm nut at the bottom of the cast iron suspenion strut. Remove the nut and hammer the small taper retaining pin out. Then you can hammer out the large spindel pin.

Now this doesn't mean that this is the right way, but I drilled out the rubber to release the inner steel sleeve. Then I had room to use a sawzaw and VERY CAREFULLY and slowly cut the outer sleeve just enough at 2 place's ,180 degrees from each other so basicly I had 2 half shells of the bushings, Then I got a punch and hammered the shells halves out. I just nicked the a-arms but the bushings stay stationary in the a-arm and pivots aroubd the new inner steel sleeve that you get with the new bushing kit. It makes it much easier if you have a bench vise to hold the a-arm while you cut the bushing. Like I said my method is not the only way, but it was the easiest way I could think of the do this without going to a machine shop to press them out.

doesn't the 82zx engine have fuel injection? As a matter of fact the 76 does too. What carbs are you using?

Oh man Pete. I'm sorry about your car, but your keeping a good attitude about. $h1t happen's that are out of our control.

I just went through my JEGS catalog, they have a/c and alterator brackets from hooker headers. They are really inexpensive at 19 and 26 bucks. I Guess they'r used for engine swap kits that they make.

Glad to hear you got it working.

well the stock datsun master is a 10 milimeter brake fitting , and the weir products hydrolic throwout bearing fitting's are 3/16 inch. I would get 2 adapters fron Earl's, one metric, one american standard to dash 3 or 4 and get a corresponding length of Earl's brake prefab stainless/flex brake line. My Mcleod H/T already had a -4 male fitting's and all I needed was a 24 inch -4 brakeline and a -4 to standerd adapter since I bought a wilwood 5/8 inch master.

Yup, v8dats is right, it's a contactor. The two live lines from the wall outlet get hooked up to the contactor directly across the black and white line in the picture. Just get a 8 to 10 gauge, 3 wire rubber covered conductor, Kinda looks like an over sized extension cord, They are ususally black and about the 1/2 to 5/8 inch in diameter. Get the matching plug for the dryer outlet that you already have and a 3/4 to 1 inch wire restrainer so when the cable goes into the electrical box in the compressor, it doesn't cut cut. Then strip about 4 inches of the outside covering of the cable and 1/2 inch from each of the 3 wires. insert the black and white wires into there corresponding spot's on the contactor and the green to ground. On the plug side, open the male plug that you bought and connect the black and white wires to the flat blade spades. the ground goes to the half moon shaped spade. Sometimes the screws in the plug that hold the wires in placed are color coded. The silver screw gets the white, the brass screw gets the black and the green screw gets the ground (you guessed it, green). I hope that helps.

Take a picture of the name plate. That indicates wether it's 3 or single phase 220 volts. Or how many wires are coming out of the compressor?

Try Vintage Air. they have a TON of A/C brackets. Probably close to 2 dozen or so on the SBC alone. Happy hunting.

$h!T....That is FAST.

Do you mean like this.

I'm sure JohnC could probably explain better than I, but I don't think you'll notice bump steer on the street. Maybe on a LONG bumpy freeway/expressway simicircle onramp would bumpsteer rear it's ugly head. I wouldn't relocate the pivot point for a street car. save the money.

Just keep in mind that what the brakes are doing is converting kinetic energy into thermo energy. The metal disc's and pads have to heat up in order to stop the car. Metal disc's expands when in use, it could be the tolerances are just out enough for you to feel it. Check the disc thickness with a micrometer as well as the rear drums inside diameter to factory specs. Did you try the e-brake thing I suggested?

Did you change out your rubber brake hose's? A soft pedel could mean several things. Something in the line is either expanding and or compressing. Normally OEM manufacturers make pads to work when cold. It's when you change out pads to "Racing Compounds" that you get higher effort required to stop until the pads are warmed up. When you say "soft" do you mean that the pedel feels "Spongy" or do you mean that higher effort is required to stop? To help you out a little better, could you list your cars barking system? What's bean upgarded and what's stock? Try this, if you still have the stock resr drum brakes, pull the e-brake lever up 1 click and see if you feel a difference. Sometimes the rear brake shoes wear, but the e-brake internal racket system doesn't automaticlly adjust the shoes out.It's designed to but doesn't.