garvice

Oh fair enough. I only really have time to glance at my oil pressure/water temp gauge every now and again, but as you say, they are in the centre section.

Mate, if your marriage is on the rocks based on something like that, then I think you have bigger problems then a profile on a messenger system.

dhp123166. Do you actually get to see the road when you drive? Man that is a lot of gauges.

As I see it, you only need the A/F while tuning. Tune for the maximum boost that you are going to run, (This is when you need the A/F reading). Then you can play with your boost controller as much as you like, as long as your car is tuned correctly up to maximum boost. I guess if you didn't have an oil temp gauge you could still run into the same problem I had when I was relying on only a water temp sensor, lose all your water and you won't know it until it is too late.

I personally think your gauges are backwards. You mention you will have a boost Controller. Does that not tell you your boost pressure? Are you worried about it not controlling the boost correctly? I have always thought the boost gauge was a bit useless (I much prefer to have my eyes on the road when my car is boosting hard). A/F gauge. Why do you need this? I see them more as a tuning aid then anything else. If you have EFI tuned properly, I don't see why you would need this for anything other then during the tuning phase, which would mean you could have it temporarily mounted. I personally think Water temp and Oil pressure are a must, would like to have oil temp as well (Had a car drop its water and I had no indication as the water temp gauge was no longer sitting in water and was therefore reading normal, not a Z). I guess Oil pressure could be replaced with a warning light. Personally, I think I could lose fuel gauge (Especially since mine doesn't work at the moment anyway), but would prefer not to. I find voltage handy, as I like to know that my alternator/regulator is doing what it is meant to, but I think it could be replaced with a warning light for low or high voltage.

I was half expecting to see a prop on the back instead of a custom transmission.

HA! That is hilarious.

Awesome Ron, I am subscribed.

Not sure where you got that one from either? ShifterZero is correct in saying that a larger conductor will lose less voltage. This is because there is less resistance in a larger conductor. Also, the longer you cable, the more resistance you have which in turn means more loss of voltage. So I don't know where you are getting this idea of a thin cable being used for long distance transfer? In regards to the question at hand. The terminal block drax posted will work fine. If you want something more compact, don't be afraid of running a larger wire to the instruments and then crimping/soldering off to several smaller wires.

Pretty detailed pics of what I did in that thread. Cut out the old mounts and welded in new box sections.

Different seats, but I had the same problem with my RX7 seats. Got them sitting lower by doing this http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=148599

Love the little V10 badge. Very subtle. Well done. Looks like there is heaps of room, but then remembered the firewall is pushed back.

He's just that cool.

Damn. Oh well.

See post 15. If you need more photo's let me know.

If you go to this page http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge_description-gauge_type-Tachometer-auto_number-730.htm and click on the second image you see a picture of the back of the gauge. It has a port saying "Plug-n-Play remote shift light port. Plug remote shift light into back of tach to fire our mini shift light"." Why not use this as a indicator blinker? You only need the one light anyway.

That's ridiculous! No wonder they have pretty strict rules about cage building.

Nice tidy Z. Man I'm glad we didn't get those bumpers though.

In the end, no car is ever worth the time and money that you put into it. I believe for most people, it is more the love of putting time and money into a car. If your project ever gets to the point where you are questioning how much time and money are going into it, always just remember to do this because you love to do it. Not because other people think you are making a great investment in a car or restoring a car that they think should be restored. What I really hate is putting time and money into a car which I know has to be working the next day. I absolutely hate working on my daily drivers unless I know I have an alternative car to drive.

Definitely second that one. I accidentally did this on my corolla last time I replaced the alternator. Put the belt on, and just didn't tighten the pulley bolt enough and it eventually loosened. Had the light come on at idle because the belt was slipping (no noise though), at revs it would pick back up.

I don't comprehend? You are at least going to mount them in the Z to show us the light output right?

Looking good mate. I found this out the hard way.

No, it was just me being an impatient tool and jumping to conclusions.

australia never got a 240sx either, only a two litre, hence 200sx

Gees, by the time I have read and posted there is already two more posts. HA.