z240

Just had an interesting throught about how to keep the 5/8 bolt from spinning in the housing. How about tapping the lock pin hole in the strut and threading a bolt in to touch and lock the pin in place. Easier than trial and erroring a slot in the bolt that the original lock pin will fit into. I feel like that also weakens the bolt. The stock lock pin has 8x1.25 threads, which pass through, so likely have to drill and tap for 10x1.25. Common bolt. Do it from the bottom. What do you think?

The TPS operation is dead simple. It's trivial to check with a multi-meter. The FSM has the proceedure. xenons30.com for the FSM download.

Wow, those pictures are a treasure of a time capsule and a lesson in strengthing the chassis. Thanks for posting that. My favorite feature is the camber/caster "adjusters" at the top of the front and rear struts. Big a$$ washer big enough to sandwich the entire strut hole! They didn't actualy run like that did they?

Just have to ask. Is there oil in the engine? Not sure how easy new rings will ride/slide on a fresh DRY cylinder wall.... Check cylinder wall roundness and consistency top to bottom too.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gfr-109l http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/boltkit.html

I can hear their excuses now.. "The adjustment knob hit the hood when we closed it, so we had to chop the top off the strut to lower the plate to make it fit. We had no choice!!!. That and we couldn't afford to refill the MIG gas bottle that day, so...." Let this be a lesson to all you young'ins out there about what not to do. Let the forces of negative social media befall these cretins at your earliest convenience. Start with their facebook page...

The cause of your steering problems is very likely a loose rack that shifts after turns. The most common reason for this is using 240 poly bushings on a 280 rack. The bushing width on the left side (near input yoke) is wider on the 280 racks. Or its just loose. About the failure, its bad welding that gave way. Never seen anything like that.

Thought we solved this "what collar height to use???" thing already. The carefully guarded 'secret' is to choose a collar that gives you ~92mm of total height from the flywheel friction surface to where the fork touches the fingers on the collar. Measure up to the PP fingers, then see how much more you need to get to 92, then choose the closest collar length with a throwout bearing on there to get to 92mm. Or is it 95mm...hmmm.... Dang interweb.... Not enough to remember that its been solved, also have to remember how to find it again when you actually need it.... ok, lots of discussion about it here. It's 92 mm http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/47279-l28-toasting-my-240z-clutch.html

Josh280z, Do you mean the small spring that's trapped inside the two halves of the plastic two-part ZX shifter bushing? For the shifter with the square hole? I have one. I'll pm you.

Need to know more about your Z. 240 and 280 shock towers are very different. Motorsport auto has new re-po's pretty cheap.

Look for a hobby store that does gas powered R/C models. They will likely have nice small soft fuel safe fuel line stock that would work just fine. Failing that, maybe the guys at ztherapy can suggest a better source or send you some.

I got one. Or two, or three... . I'll send it for $15 + postage. Contact me at z240@shaw.ca and I'll get it on the way.

http://www.frostfighter.com/index.htm has a complete kit including wiring and timer controls. Just choose the size you need and slap it on. Might need two kits for a 12V system according to luseboy . nug nug wink wink... You might also find your old defroster wires tucked into the overhead trim that has the dome light...

http://www.anplumbing.com/ is a favorite of mine. Well organized by fitting types, with good pictures and description of every part. Check out the "Brake Adapters" link in the first Blue column under "Adapters". Speed-Seal Steel or SS hose ends with PFTE -3 hose and make your own brake lines all day long as per heavy85's inference. Also just had the thought that 82-83 280ZX pre-made SS brake lines from various sources have a male 10x1mm IF end (into caliper just like OE hard line) by female 10x1mm IF end (to body side hard line). These are likely cheaper to buy than to make your own with the PFTE stuff above. Not sure if they are long enough though.

It would be great to complete this post with the ebay user name of the seller you dealt with. not that its hard to find. its nut.onlineshop11 ...

New and ARP stuff for sure where it counts. I have a couple of favorite metric hardware suppliers. https://www.belmetric.com has JIC spec bolts, nuts and studs. Think new shiny 8mm nuts that have a teenee tiny 12mm hex head like the stockers, for $0.18 each. And metric acorn, wing and fuji nuts! Even copper exhaust flange nuts.. ooooohhhhh.... http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/ has gold/cad zinc plated SEMS metric bolts that are reasonable in price and they have a decent selection. Sometimes it just nice to have pretty bolts for front cover, water stuff, etc. Search for "SEMS M8" to get you started.

As promised, I finally have a reported weight of the GR unit from "TS Imported Automotive". 9.5 lbs/4.3 kg. Still not making the hoped for 7. It is 100% brand spanking new and uses pure Denso parts. Maybe a re-coil starter off your Toro with a nice rope and T-handle under the dash would be light enough

Well that's a nifty idea. Put the isolator inside the cross member (looks suspicisously like a control arm bushing) instead in the diff mount, and get positive capture at the same time. Might be tempted to use a poly bushing. Hardest part might be finding/making tubing with the right ID to fit the bushing you choose.

Thanks to the 510 gang on 510realm for a heads up on a tip about light starters. Discussed in this thread. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9527&hilit=gear+reduction+starter#p96502 They come from "TS Imported Automotive". They have light weight and compact starter for Datsuns (and others). http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/gearreductionstarters.html I've asked them to let me know the weight. Will post when they reply. Only $200 bucks, made in Ohio none the less!

Clean it thoroughly so that PB-Blaster can get into the threads. Heat is the next step. Do a few heat/cool cycles. Ideally weld a nut onto the exposed bolt to get the best grip. When you finally go to do it, vise grips or not, go SLOWLY, in BOTH directions to get it moving. Then keep adding PB-Blaster and keep working it. Patience is key here.

Have you driven a Z with that early wood (ish) wheel? The look is perfect, but many, myself included, do not like the feel of the skinny rim in my hands when driving, especially when driving with "spirited intent". The diameter also is a bit large as they say compared to 280's and feels "too big". Just something to consider.

Free after an initial investment of course... I wondered when some one would come up with a system for this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bch5B23_pu0

I just don't know what to say to that......

No way in hell I'de use them as is. Looks like scrap aluminum to me. Unless the wheels are very special to you, the cost to have a wheel refurbishing company fix that is WAY beyond the cost of new ones.

ThisGuy answered his own post with the correct size in #3.