z240

emailed as well. Let me know.

I can confirm you have a 73 harness because of those 4 colorful big block connectors that mate to the 73 dash harness. The 74 harness also had this, but also had much more. The one engine glaring difference is the fusable link box and the shunt box for the ammeter. If you don't have those, then you definitely have a 73 harness. I agree that the schematics from the FSM's for these years aren't a whole lot of help, but the body electrical section has some wiring plug ID and location diagrams that might be helpful. Few here including me can tell you off the top of our what wire goes where between the two years without some research. The only really big wiring difference up front that pops into my head is the intermittent wiper motor and its underdash relay/controller that was added in 73. The carbs had some electrical controls as well didn't they? Maybe you have an auto harness that had an interlock relay? Perhaps approach this from the functionality point of view. Get the major systems like lights, ignition, voltage reg, oil pressure, starter, wipers, etc working and diagramed then worry about the left over wires....

Check the total stack height of the clutch + collar. Should be 92 mm to the tabs the fork touches down to the fly wheel surface. Stop thinking about which "collar do I use?" and start thinking about "how do I get total stack = 92 mm"... Every clutch out there seems to have a unique height, so there is no "right collar" just "right stack height". Discussed here with pics http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/49985-please-help-id-my-transmission-year-clutch-replacement-gone-sideways.html

So simple. GREAT idea.

what year 280? Late ones are different (longer underneath)

you're going to need the factory service manual and wiring diagrams. xenons130.com/reference Download the 82 or 83 and look at the ECCS and or Turbo references...

Wow: I know you're up on the cost of the shipping. What method/company would you use? I'de be willing to give it a shot. How would you except it to be packaged? I'm willing to wrap it in couple of layers of cardboard I guess, but not to build it a wooden crate. Anyway let me know what you thinking. Send me an email to z240@shaw.ca and I'll send you pics of a couple of real nice hatches I have. Jim

it starts, pull the connector off of it once its started. Same as "off idle open 2/18"

The TPS is a simple switch so the ecu knows if you are off idle or at full throttle. At idle, pins 2 and 18 are connected, then just off idle, they disconnect. At 30 degree open throttle 3 and 18 connect. So, if desparate, cut the wire to the plug on the TPS, leaving 3 inches. strip the wire ends. Pull the plug and read the numbers next to the plug terminals to get which is which. Connect the bare ends of 2 and 18, start the car. Disconnect 2 and 18 and drive away. Drive gently all teh way home, as you won't get full enrichment. Replace TPS eventually, re-splice 3 lousy wires.

Take the hazard switch out and clean its internal contacts. The TS power goes thrue this switch and its a common failure point that causes your symptoms. Another clue about flasher units is that they tend to work well when the car is running, but may not work well or at all if the car is not running (low voltage). Also with dirty contacts, the higher voltage get a bit more current through and make them work when running. A system with all clean connections will work well car running or not.

Clive may recognize a couple of things on the linkage (one's hiding). Thanks!

Now if only badgti would respond to our posts..... Maybe we scared him off with the above "discourse"....

T in a clear chunk of 7/32 sight tubing into the bottom bowl to jet tube hose and really check the running fuel level on both carbs. If you have float bowl drains, you can rig up a sight tube from there. Should be right at the top of the rectangular raised boss on the side of the float bowl, which is 20 mm down from the lid gasket line (23mm down from roof of the inside of the lid as per FSM). this will prove not only the correct float position, but also if your floats are free and if your float valves are sticking or not. Second important detail is fuel pressure. Just a bit over 4-5 psi might be held by one float valve, but not by the other. 2.5 - 3 is nice and safe.

Sounds great. Nice feeling when it all comes together, yes? I'm guessing you don't have the air in the clutch thing solved. You likely need a new clutch master. Its leaking.... They are pretty cheap to replace. Do the slave at the same time. Your syncro's are just fine, you're just not releasing the clutch the whole way.

I'm going to have to check mine for warping now. Shouldn't have left them outside in the rain for the last couple of years. Dang it... Shoulda known...

This is one busy site alright, and full of very knowledgable people here. Very little BS. and yes, $10. It ain't perfect, but it will open the door! Glad to help.

I can help with this I think. What shipping method do you want to use? Contact me at z240@shaw.ca and we'll take it from there.

I'm assuming a set of Weber 45's won't work for you?

Sure, $10 + postal shipping will get you a decent used handle. Both sides are the same, just attach the latch rod to the other arm/hole when you switch them. You can even switch your pass side over for a other side until a new one shows. This assumes it broke in the usual place, ie the one arm with the rod attached broke off from the body. Another option is MSA's reproductions at $35 at piece. Nice and shiny, decent quality pretty cheap really. Get there faster too. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/30-2241A Drop me a line z240@shaw.ca if I can help.

Dave's handle over at classiczcars.com is Zsondabrain. I also don't believe its practical for many Z owners to have several sets of light switches to play with. This would be cost prohibitive and pretty tough find switches in the first place. Sending it Dave is the best all around solution as he has the experience to do it right the first time and has the stock of replacement parts to fix it. I can also send you just a replacement switch from a spare set I have if you'de like. You already know how it goes together! I'll just unsolder my switch from the four wires and you can solder it back on to your harness and put the screws back in that hold it down. The switch itself is the same over all the s30 models, but the wiring harness ends aren't all the same. Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and we'll take it from there. I'll even clean the contacts and test it before I send it. Bonus! Imagine getting parts that work... Jim

I am about to try it on a friends head, inserts coming this week. As to the derth of comment about success or failures, I suspect it due to two issues. Scarcity of examples, and the fact that its so simple that it likely is pretty much fool proof and hasn't caused anyone any problems worth reporting. I see no reason for locktight, the solid lifter insert torques down to the head effectively trapping the insert. Assuming the length of the insert is such that the insert can't thread down too far into the head, effectively leaving too few ID threads to engage well with the solid lifter post causing possible stripping upon torque application, then it can't fail. I also see no downside to using locktite if you feel like it. Might make removing them at some point a bitch, but how likely is that? If the threads are clean and well lubed, the insert should thread in by hand until it seats at the top (they have an upper lip I think, guess they can't thread in too far...). If its a bit hard to do that way, thread it onto the post then insert them as a pair into the head so you have a hex on the post to help it all thread in real pretty like. I'll let you know how my swap goes when I get 'round to it.

P90 search has ended. Thanks for the offers and consideration everyone, especially Robftw.

Looking for a good condition p90 head. No shave preferred. Must be usable as is. Cam optional. Must be willing to shipping to Western Canada, my expense of course. Let me know what you have and pricing. Thanks

You're on to the right stuff with that link. What you need are just the weld-in LH/RH threaded tube ends and then buy your tubing locally. Then you can make adjustable rods all day long. chassisshop.com has this stuff as well as others. http://secure.chassisshop.com/partlist/5928/ is one page with these weld in tube adaptors. The fine crop of race fab'ers here will no doubt chime with their favorite vendors.

Some one is going to have to ask this, so let me. I think you mean a new rear strut insulator so you can get the strut back in the car, because the "shock tower cap" to most of us are likely picturing in our minds is just a piece of round plastic that covers the hole in the body where the rear shock insulator mounts. The plastic cap is not needed to get the car moving again. If I'm off track here, please post a picture of the piece you need and someone will help. We also need to know what year S30 you have. 280's use a taller rear insulator. Jim