z240

Shark Hide is another similar aluminum protectant. http://www.sharkhide.com/

That tank is in marvelous shape. I'd be curious as you why you think it needs a resto. If you clean the outside, carefully inspect the pinch weld all around for any signs of separation or bulging that would show rust growing from the inside out. Check the brazes around the inlet and outlet tubes and ensure they are tight, with NO movement. Change the O-ring and check the oring seat area around the level sender mounting ring, put gas in it and go!

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/34-1167A Looks like the same profile as the stuff for the same hood seal at the windshield end.

They are 10mm x 1.25. 25 or 30 mm long. They have a shoulder that fits the hole very tightly. Generic 10mm bolts are loose fit. It is the clamping force that counts, make sure you use grade 8 SAE or 10.9 DIN bolts and torque correctly.

Nice work. No, we all WISH there was once a plastic liner in there, but unfortunately not so much. Mushy cardboard is all we 240 folks get. 260/280 got a full plastic glove box that comes easily out the front. Many have adapted one of those to replace the cardboard atrocity in their 240's. Clearly you won't have that problem for some time.

I should have one. Can you contact me at z240@shaw.ca and send me a picture of your current one? I specifically need to see the "depth" between the 4 mounting holes (to the inner door skin) and the metal plate behind the coil spring. 240 are "thin", later (up to the big change in 77) are thicker at this point. This isn't a 2+2, correct?

Bob, you car is running well. Enjoy it for what it is. Carbs are just nothing like modern cars. It actually takes work, patience and effort to start them and use them until the engine is warmed up. They are likely out of tune and dirty to some degree, the chokes may not be working quite so perfect, so there is certainly more you could do. Look at ztherapy.com and get their DVD about how to tune them.

No problem, I can ship you the parts postal and keep the costs down. Drop me a line to z240@shaw.ca and we'll take it from there.

Where are you located? Should add that to your profile so it appears with your avatar in posts. I have what you need, but I'm in western Canada. Maybe someone closer could help sooner, but until we know where you are....

Only reproduction I know of is from MSA. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/30-7291

oh oh.... You likely have a shaving of jet thread or a piece-o-poop in the pilot passage that has blocked it. Take the carb off, remove the pilot jet, and blow compressed air though each of holes in the bore, starting with the idle screw hole, then each of the other three slight upstream of that. Plug the other holes you're not blowing through so the air goes out the pilot jet well. About your only shot at this...

I wonder if your "sound" problem is a small exhaust leak? They are often mistaken for or confused with a noisy valve train or contribute to that "too powerful" sound you are getting. Now that its all had a few heat cycles, go crank down all the manifold bolts again and check the downpipe flange. They like to be warped. Since you can apparently can watch and measure your advance pretty easily, as long as it advances smoothly and its all in by 3200-3500 be happy with that. Get those fuel issues you mentioned settled, then report back.

You need to get those bushings replaced ASAP. There absense is the cause of your shake rock and roll. That diff has huge forces on it that need to be properly constrained. Just imagine why they made the mustache bar so long and you can imagine the torque it has to hold.

Please carefully read this person's product description then decide if this is a sane and safe product to use. My BS meter hits 100% several times during my read. I would personaly NEVER use this product on a street or race car alone. My (least) favorite part is the section titled "Does this kit work with my OEM brake lines?" If reading that doesn't trigger a few mental alarms, you'd better do more study on brake safety and shill advertising....

No problem doing surface if you like. I think the price was $19ish IIRC. But I just can't get the image out of my head of a UPS guy in a row boat with boxes piled in the back, some spilling into the surf, trailing along behind.... Sure you can wait that long? Nissan promises I'll have your nuts in my hands by the end of the day....

Postal still rules here as far as rates go too.. Canada Post will give me 5-8 business air service to AUS for $40 canuck bucks for this package.

If I were not on my way to San Diego and totally swamped with prep work, I would be on this in a heart beat. And its not for the beer offer either. Well, maybe a little.... They are $8.50 from my Nissan dealer. I am just about out and need to put an order in again anyway. Not in a rush are you ? Oh hell, I'll go home and see if I have four left. If I do, I'm sure I can get an envelope in the mail box before I go.... PM me your address and contact details!

12mm wrench. Take the seat out if you are having trouble being a pretzel.

Ask yourself this question, then decide what to do.... How many remanufactured engines get put in cars in North America in one year......

These are not hard to get from any parts store. Wagner CR123497 and CR123496 Left/right BeckArnley 0770713S and 0770714S Right/Left

Not all blue Z's had a blue interior. White and black were available. Look under the rugs/spare tire well etc to find some original body color if you're worried about it having been repainted. The price is a steal. Other than checking for great quantities of hiding rust under a non-original paint job, or the mileagle being faked, go, buy it now. right now. quick.

I have one in Calgary. Send me a note to z240@shaw.ca and we'll set you up real quick.

He has the "starters" (Mikuni chokes) open when he re-starts near the end. They make a hell of a hiss/sucking sound. That's the hiss you hear, at least in that part. High idle is often also a symptom of poor sync, but vacuum leaks are more common. While I'm at it, using starter fluid or something combustable, to diagnose vacuum leaks is an old wive's tale, given my recent experience. I was playing vacuum log games with some new bits and wanted to know if they were sealed. So I grabbed a can of starter fluid and sprayed a bit around. No change in idle. Great, musta done a good job. Then for a lark (I mean 'reference point' clears throat...), I sprayed a good shot right in the barrel of one carb just to see what will happen, ie, what kind of a change am I'm expecting to hear. The damn crap made ZERO, nadda, ziltch change in idle, combustion sound, anything. Maybe if I was watching the AFR gauge. So be careful spreading that "tip".... I went back and looked at the vid again, the sucking starters/chokes are on at the start too. BTW, also noticed the engine is cold (scan of the gauges early on), all tuning should be done fully warmed. THEN you can fiddle with how it starts and runs cold.

Steve is correct about the volume compensation. The larger the box is and the larger the inlet is, the less it matters about shape. Looks like you'r on the right track. Remember whatever box you make has to be removable too... Don't forget that there is lots of room DOWN not just toward the fender. Ever seen Z race car engine bay photos where the ENTIRE and I mean ALL, of the engine bay from the vertical plane formed by the carb/intake flange all the way to the inner fender, from rad support to firewall, is boxed off, sealed to the hood and frame rail? One huge cold air a$$ box is formed that doubles as a heat shield too.

Your entire life is a series of ever changing events and circumstances, some that brought you closer to cars, some that moved you away. This most recent line of thinking is just another ebb and flow in that cycle. It's not the end, its just where you're at right now. I'm betting like everyone else here, that you will be back with the car thing before very long. Just pertend you're on vacation. Once oily, always oily. Remember it ain't over Until you hear the "mass-challenged" female singer at a somber gathering in your honor. Can't think of any more cliches right now. We'll expect you back on this thread in about, oh, 1-2 years at most announcing your next project. See you then!