Noddle

I also would suggest to have your wide band running before you fit MS, or at least do it at the same time. you will need this to help you tune your MS. Nigel

With my MSII, the injector have power from the battery (via relay / fuse), and the ground wire goes back to MS, MS grounds them out to fire them. There are some nice diagrams out there on how it's wired up, Nigel

Also you have the joiner clip on the wrong way, I.E, the open part of the joiner should be on the trailing end when the chain movies, Chain move clockwise, the open bit on the clip should be on the left, You learn these thing when you miles away from home and you chain on your motorbike comes off because the joiner clip was put on the wrong way another way to think off it, is the part with the most mass (on the joiner clip), should be at the froward part, Nigel

I had always thought it was to do with RPM verses Torque from my motor bike days, shorter rod / higher RMP, longer rod / slower RMP but more torque. I'm sure if I'm wrong some will say so. Nigel

Did you use solider or silver solider to hold you balance tube together ? Nigel

Hi, Mines a KN1 1 all measurements are in mm A 24.93 B 22.23 C 39.27 Turbo flange inner diameter = 47.29 x 57.47 I had the calipers into the manifold as far as I could for A & B (smallest size) Nigel

I brought this of ebay the other day for $200 Aus (about $120 US), the core measures 470mm x 160mm x 70mm, the reason I wanted this type is that the pipe fittings are on the same end, and my research (Maximum boost)suggested this type of intercooler should be better than ones with the same size core but with the pipe fitting at each end of the tank. Nigel

it's easier to get to the bolts / nuts underneath and I like the look. Nigel

Will this give enough clearance when the engine rocks when it's running (loading / unloading the engine) ? Nigel

I don't think so, I have never had any of my cars or anyone else I know, had their cars tested for pollution. I would say Tassie is probably 5 - 10 years behind the rest of the world in technology for the general public. But it is a nice place to live. Nigel

I haven't fitted it yet, I'm trying to keep it looking standard, I suppose I'm wanting a bit of a 'sleeper' I.E , looks like it's got no go.. but a nice surprise when I stick my foot into it, and I'll be less likely been pulled up by the cops wanting a look under the bonnet (hood) Nigel

Hi, If I paint a intercooler black, will this affect it's cooling ability ?, if not, will it make a difference if it matt black, or gloss black. I'm wanting to 'hide' it from the casual observers (cops) Nigel

Maybe it to help with oil drainage with sumps with the pan at the front, ie early Skyline, I think I may have issues with drainage with my US spec turbo manifold and front sump on my car. see pic

silly question, I take it these are from the Nissan Fast CD, are there any copy rights issues with using these, in a large group together ? Nigel

Hi, I'm in the process of putting a turbo on my N/A L24e (5-7 psi, with megasquirt), and I want to know if I can use the existing fuel regulator or are these different to the turbo ones. The reason I ask is that I'm not sure what will happens to fuel pressure, when boost is applied on the regulator. Nigel

So the sheep loving thing is not just a Aussie thing that we use on the the Kiwis, I didn't realise it was a global thing... LOL sorry, I just had to. Nigel

The oil light should go out very quickly (even on cranking), here's something to try, pull the coil lead off (so it doesn't start), undo the oil filter, and crank it over. Oil should come out, if not, did you notice if any oil came out of the oil pump when you had it out ?, if no, you may need to prime it. Take the oil pump out, put some oil in one of the holes, turn the pump gear with a flat blade screw driver till it pumps oil out the other hole, put it back in, also it should have a very thing gasket. make sure it's not ripped I hope this helps you out. edit.. if this is a new pump, you must prime it before installing. Nigel

here's a l20et one I believe, you will notice the turbo flange is more forward that a L28 on, and the outer 2 bolt holes don't have the end bits cut out. Nigel

Hi, Since no one else has chipped in, here's mine MSII Rev 2.88800 Standard L24e (MR30 Skyline), with standard injectors, and every thing else, except it's running EDIS. Note: this map I pinched from some one else (can't remember where), It appears to run ok, but I have not put it on a dyno, so as always, use at your own risk Nigel

When I was working with a mechanic 15 years ago, I saw him weld up a crack in a M.A.N exhaust manifold, the way he did it, he heated it up with a oxy, then welded it with a stick welder, and after it all cooled, he 'penned' (is that a word), he used a hammer and center punch, and went all over the weld with it, little center punch marks, I asked why he did that, his reply was to relieve any tension on the weld. so my question, do you think welding the cast will cause a problem with cracking later on ? Nigel

Thanks for that, If you look at these pictures, the turbo sits out a little further (1/2 inch spacer used), and I didn't want to try to bend the metal line to sharply (It was all bent by hand, no tool used except for the leg on the trampoline) also if you are wondering about the sump, it for my 240K, not 'Z', see pic. Nigel

Thanks, I made this yesterday Nigel

I believe this is what Tony D is talking about http://www.datsport.com/Racer_Brown_Menu.html Nigel

My understanding is (I'm no expert mind you), you turn all the extra fuel bits off, ie warm up enrichment, accel enrichment, EGO controller Authority, IAT correction, you work on your VE table, work on the area to make it idle first, then the rest. I suggest you go here and do some reading if you haven't already done so http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/tune.htm when you finish reading it, read it again a few more times. When I tuned mine, to get it in the ball park, I had my son sitting next to me with my laptop, and he was making changes to the VE table as we drove, you need a wide band O2 meter for this. Nigel

Thank you all, I have the banjo bolt and fitting, I'm planing to use some brake line to make this (from my wrecked MR30), one end has the flare , the other end will be silvered soldered onto the banjo fitting. I got my Tee now, went to the local hose fitting place, they had all the bits in stock to make it Nigel