grumpyvette

you need to tell us what cam is used,and which style of vortec supercharger (V1-v2-v3-v4-v5) but guessing at a few things and assuming youll want a mild performance cam your looking at aproximately 500hp/500tq at 10 psi boost

http://www.crossedflags.com/nuke/html/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/10620/CamelToe.jpg prime camel toe

while Im sure that was great for giggles ID strongly suggest not doing anything similar on the public street ever again.......think how you would have felt if you crested that ridge and there was a car broken down in front of you or some other problem,and you KILLED someone! yeah WEVE ALL done it at times!(myself included years back,) but the cost can be extremely high! Ive come to realize that the tracks the only place you can really expect to get away with 100mph plus driving

my old neighborhood/. (1)next door neighbor arrested for selling drugs (THREE TIMES) finally, got seroius jail time! only after punching a detective.and attemping to shoot him (2)gunshots usually mean drug or whore dispute over money (3)cars racing down streets at 2am almost nightly (4) cars stolen almost weekly, calling cops is a waste of time (5)muggings of old people fairly frequent (6) partys are not comon and parking problems are cause for fights (7)comon conversation is about who got arrested lately (9) people try to avoid each other, I knew 3 people on my block after 20 plus years, not getting serious jail time when your guilty is a STATUS SYMBOL (10)having a fenced yard is ODD my new neighborhood/ (1)neighbor has 6 horses,5 large dogs and carries a pistol in a hip holster and everyone considers it normal, in fact almost everyone has a shotgun in their trucks rear window(even the women) (2)gunshots normally mean raccoons in the trash or gators in the yard (3)almost everyone drives slowly and cautiously in large 4x4 trucks (4) anyone "not from around here" gets pulled over and asked if thier (LOST, then told to LEAVE, if they can,t explain exactly WHY there there. and WHO called them) by BOTH cops and neighbors,tend to follow,non-resident cars, and wave and talk to locals,non-locals licence plates get photographed,calls get made if they look suspicious (5)robberys very rare! muggings are almost unheard of (6)bar-b-ques and partys are weekly affairs and damn near everyones invited (7) comon conversations about whos buying/trading, what truck or horse (9) trucks and cars RARELY pass each other without pausing and exchanging small talk, guys riding horses vs driving are comon, owning a BACKHOE or BULLDOZER is a STATUS SYMBOL (10) your considered (ODD) if your fenced 5 acre MINIMUM yard does not have several large dogs

Id point out that youll get far more hp per dollar , when you consider ALL the costs involved in an engine swap,with a correctly built GEN1 small block than a LS1 it would not be that hard to build a 550hp sbc GEN1 for under $7000 INSTALLED and its doubtful you can have a newly rebuilt 550hp LS1 for that that produces nearly the tq curve

please tell him were PRAYING FOR ALL the MARINES/SOLDIERS and WE TRULY APPRECIATE thier efforts and sacrifice

WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO USE A SUPERCHARGER FOR? correctly set up and assembled that combo would have well in excess of 550hp/550 tq, in a (Z) youll have a great deal of trouble getting even that level of power to the track surface effectively, but if you really want to get nuts adding a 150-250 hp nitrous plate system under the carb will do it for you

"U guys choose my build!!! " http://ohiocrank.com/short.html CHECK OUT THE PRICE ON THE 454 sbc SHORT BLOCKand the heads below http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=306111&prmenbr=361 http://www.dartheads.com/manager/uploads/Tech%20-%20230%20IRON%20SBC.pdf add a super vic intake and a roller cam like this http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00425&x=32&y=11

I happend to be driving bye the harbor freight store yesterday , they had ENGINE LEVELERS on sale for $22 , if you DON,T have one its surely worth $22 I bought a second on as a spare for the shop at that price http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42356

hitting a deer can be serious! one of my friends had less than 200 miles on a new VW when he hit several deer and TOTALLED the car,one deer came thru the windshield on impact and destroyed the car, plus it didn,t help that he lost control with a deer in his lap and rolled the car, he got cut up and bruised but survived

you can prevent a good deal of metalic dust/crap from entering your oil pump and being forced thru the gears by installing several magnets in the engine to trap crud BEFORE it gets sucked into the pump look at the oil passage lay out when the oil is cold or theres assembly lube or other crud in the filter , or you rev the engine SOME OIL FLOW ALWAYS BYPASSES THE FILTER[/img] http://www.wondermagnets.com/ these are NOT REFRIGERATOR MAGNETS "#0001" can pick up a SBC cylinderhead, and you wont beleive the amount of crud they remove from your oil and prevent from reaching the bearings © 2003 ForceField Email us toll free (877)944-6247 or (970)484-7257 Also, you can visit us at our retail store in Fort Collins, Colorado, USA at 614 South Mason Street! Ive been installing 4 of these lately in the corners of the oil pan sump, and one in the rear of each cylinder head nothing magnetic (metallic dust from engine wear, assorted trash,etc.)can get past them, I also sometimes install one near the rear oil drain in the lifter gallery to collect broken valve train shrapnel in case of a failure to limit damage on race engines. btw if you dont want to install them inside the sump you can J&B weld them to the outside of the oil pan permently or just place them there if you want them removable,TRUST ME THEY WON,T FALL OFF ON THIER OWN attached to the steel oil pan sump, or the iron block BTW ID use the thinner synthetic oils as mineral base oils leave deposites that restrict oil flow thru the screens if the oil does not get changed FREQUENTLY look at them as one time use and disposable if the block gets HOT TANKED,as to screens I use J&B weld to place screen over the oil return holes in the block http://store.summitracing.com/default.as...p;x=38&y=13 look at them as one time use and disposable if the block gets HOT TANKED,also,while they may hold its doubtfull once the blocks cooked and dunked so ID remove and install new on each build like the BRASS freeze plugs and cam bearings keep in mind MAGNETS tend too loose strength if heated to 250 degrees or higher so having an oil cooler to keep the oil temps under about 230F but over the minimum 215F to burn off moisture is a good idea

most guys seem to build things strictly from available catalog parts, while theres little wrong with that, if your goal is just a faster car, it leaves a HUGE amount of individual modification and custom fabrication skills unused ,that in most cases can and should be done/used to built a TRUE hot rod my deffinition of a hot rod is a car with a custom built drive train, and other mods to increase performance if you don,t own and know exactly how to use basic tune up and diagnostic testing equipment and a welder and a drill press, measuring tape,caliper, and a vise in your shop, Id bet your not into fabricating your own parts, and your just a parts installer are you a true hotrodder? or just a guy installing aftermarket parts on your car? And what I mean by that is most people who are into cars and have a fairly fast car/s ESPECIALLY TODAY, simply add some aftermarket parts to increase, the cars potential horsepower or braking ability or change its looks. While the old-time hot rodders, tended to look at a project, and say OK I want the best I can find, trade for or build!!,that includes the, rear end diff. the interior, front suspension, brakes, ENGINE,TRANSMISSION, paint job, Tires,ETC. available! I want the best performance! I want too build it my way! Now if that meant in your opinion that you wanted crysler hemi engine ,the Buick transmission, a FORD suspension , and all installed, in an early Pontiac, because you happen to like the styling of that car, you sat down and figured out how to accomplish it. You knew from the start that there was no way you could buy parts do it, you had to sit down and figure out how to get it all assembled you had to do all your own measuring and in most cases you had to build a lot of your OWN CUSTOM parts. You had to understand how things worked. Why they worked! And what it would take to get certain systems to work with other systems. You had to know a lot about welding and machining of parts or have a big enough wallet to have somebody else do it for you! Your goal was basically to build something totally unique, and in many cases much faster than Detroit could or would produce, hopefully installed in a package to not only looked good. But Ran good, something that was relatively trouble-free, and something all your friends would admire! In short something you could be eminently proud of! in short I think the hobby of building fast / custom cars, is losing something, it every part you put in the car can be ordered off the catalog pages. a GREAT deal of this hobby used to be involved in finding out how to fit and make systems designed for differant cars work togeather in a way that at least potentially improved the result over anything that could be purchased from any dealer! or put another way... IVE personally got a whole lot more respect and appreciation for some guy that installed a 500 caddy engine in a 240 Z datsun that looks like it was factory installed that only runs 12 flat quarter mile times than some guy that buys a ZO6 corvette and adds a $1000 nitrous system that runs 11.5 second quarter mile times and no it does NOT need to be ALL chevy to be a good combo,BUT it won,t hurt much to install a KILLER BIG BLOCK in almost anything) just the work'/skills needed learned to install a v8 and trans in a datsun goes a long way towards making you gentelmen true hot rodders YOUR THOUGHTS GENTELMAN????

Ive helped WORK on several big block (Z) cars ,my cousin owned one, Ive built complete roll cages, worked on , rear suspensions,frame mods, engine installs, trans swaps ETC. but never personally OWNED one. in most of those cars we had a full cage and there were few if any stock suspension parts and a full frame was fabricated as we felt that the stock body would not stand the stress for long sometimes its just easier to use the basic stripped body shell fitted to a full rolling cage/frame suspension purpose built to the application and a new frame/cage on a purpose built race car has several advantages over trying to use stock components and be limited to the stock measurments, and strength limitations example its not a big deal to move the frame slightly to get more engine /suspension clearance or to use corvette suspension components a good 200-300 amp TIG welder and a sawzal some understanding of geometry and stress in a race car and at least minimal skills to use them can do wonders to a car, Id highly advise any hotrodder to learn WELDING and FABRICATION, theres night classes at many schools http://www.miata.net/sport/Physics/index.html

I hope this helps the newer guys, you older guys know this by now or your hopeless! now this IS corvette related but most of it applies to most cars youll work on step (1) buy a manual, the chevy shop manual is PREFERED (step (2) THINK THINGS THRU.....work on a dry level concrete surface if you can, use floresent not incandesent lights under the corvette,thier far less likely to start fires http://www.wiringproducts.com/?target=dept_166.html disconnect both battery terminals, drain all oil and coolent, use quality jack stands and wheel chocks, put the parking break on, keep a fire extinguisher handy , make very sure the car can,t be knocked off the jack stands, which should be placed on the frame at all four corners,THINK THU EVERY MOVE,DON,T ALLOW YOUR HANDS INTO PLACES THAT WILL GET CRUSHED IF SOMETHING SLIPS OR BREAKS, DON,T FORGET TO BRING DOZENS OF THOSE TIE ON LINEN TAGS TO LABEL EVERY CONNECTOR AS YOU REMOVE IT AS TO WHERE IT CONNECTS, USE a marker that gas and oil won,t make the ink run, AND USE A DIGITAL CAMERA TO TAKE DOZENS OF PICTURES AS YOU DO THE WIRE REMOVAL TO USE LATER AS A REFERANCE TO MAKE THE RE-INSTALL EASIER BTW theres no way to write all the necessary info on the tag so just write a large number on the tag and then write all your info on a large pad with that number on the top of the page and the same number on the back of any photo if you can later when the pictures are developed or down loaded to your computer and printed out remember to support the transmission, BEFORE you pull the engine , just letting it drop could cost you big$$$ keep a 5 gallon bucket around to throw ALL the bolts in with some deisel fuel (not gas) in it to clean the bolts BEFORE putting them in each labled plastic bag,AND YEAH! take the time to lable zip lock bags for each group of bolts also ,(bags like )(intake bolts)(header bolts)(accesories)(water pump)(motor mount)(bellhouseing) (head bolts)CAN HELP A GREAT DEAL IN GETTING THE CORRECT BOLTS BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOTS clean all bolts before reuse with a mix of diesel/carb cleaner and a wire brush and look for worn or corroaded parts needing replavement YOU DON,T NEED to pull the hood to pull the engine,(MOST CARS) but if you do,lightly dust the hood mount locations with white paint,this allows you to exactly replace the hood alighnment correctly by showing exactly how they were previously installed (RECOVER(REPAINT) AFTER THE HOODS REPLACED WITH BLACK paint AGAIN) take lots of notes and pictures, lable every connection its far easier with two people! adding an engine leveler and swivel to your engine crane makes things far easier adding a swivel like this between the leveler and crane GREATLY AIDS THE ENGINES REMOVAL, DON,T GET STUPID or CHEAP, GET THE 3400lb rated one not the 1200lb size (REMEMBER YOULL BE UNDER THAT ENGINE SOMETIMES) youll need two of these rated at similar load strength[/b] the question almost always goes like this "whats the proper way to safely work under the corvette? the ramps I have skid away from the tires as I try to roll up on them, and the jack scratches or dents my cross member, I can,t get the floor jack under the corvette, where do I place the jack stands, how high should the vette be?ETC." lets talk jack stands first, need to have a wide base and allow significant under car clearance to work, I can and do HIGHLY RECOMMEND getting 4 of these JACK STANDS as they are significantly larger and stronger and far harder to tip over than the average auto parts store JUNK most guys use http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34924 yeah I KNOW your first idea is , the 6 ton stands are cheaper and the corvette only weights 3500lbs so why the 12 ton stands???? trust me here!!! the 12 ton stands allow both a significantly larger under car clearance and they have a much wider base making them MUCH safer, spend the extra few bucks!!! its well worth it!! and the jack stands need to be placed solidly on the frame in four widely spaced locations, I normally use the locations chevy suggests in the user manual , but two widely spaced on the front (K) member and TWO on the rearv frame seems ok also if your going to get under the car SAFELY you need QUALITY jack stands, a QUALITY FLOOR JACK and RAMPS to allow you to roll the jack under the vette! if your like me , and own a C-4 corvette (I OWN 3 C-4 corvettes) youve more than likely found that a typical floor jack won,t roll under the corvette unless its up on ramps first and that RAMPS tend to skid away from the tires as you try to drive up on them heres the solution first buy the (4 )12 ton jack stands, so you can work under the vette safely buy these or similar ramps http://www.autobarn.net/rodi/usm11905.html they are light weight plastic but rated at 8000 lbs (you only use them to get the jack under the corvette NOT YOU! and no you don,t work under the corvette with them, and to keep them from sliding away from the tires the solution is simple, you buy 0ne 36" long rubber mat, cut it into two 36" long and 10" wide sections and CONTACT CEMENT/GLUE them to the rhino ramps so that about 18" is on the concrete in front of the ramp and 18" is glued to the upper surface of the ramp, so the vettes tires are on the mat before the car starts to go up the ramp thus TRAPPING the ramp in place as the tire starts up the ramp useing the vettes weight it self next the floor jack, youve got lots of choices but get a good one! sears has a reasonably good quality 3 ton floor jack that comes with two jack stands( these you can use to support the trans or rear end while the good 12 ton stands support the vettes frame) it costs about $99 I have two in the shop. and that frame dent problem is easily avoided if you GLUE a 6" x 6" X 1" thick section of old truck tire thats FREELY available on most interstates as BLOW OUT SCRAP to the jack pad with contact cement! http://www.bizrate.com/buy/products__att259818--41004963-3557808,cat_id--22000500,keyword--floor%20jack,lp--1,mkt_id--16867906,rf--fwa.html remember its your BUTT/life thats under that vette and if it falls your the guy getting squashed like a bug! think ! do it correctly I think youll find these very handy if you work on cars and don,t have a lift BTW the 12 ton stands are VASTLY PREFERED as they have a WIDER BASE and EXTRA STRENGTH,(if IM GOING UNDER A CAR I DON,T WANT TO BENCH PRESS THE DAMN THING TO GET OUT FROM UNDER IT) how much is you LIFE WORTH,BUY THE !12 ton RATED STANDS they are MUCH safer than the 3-6 ton stands IF ONLY BECAUSE THEY ARE FAR HARDER TO TIP OVER IF SOMEONE ROCKS THE CAR! 2 Piece Set These super heavy duty jack stands will hold most cars and trucks safely over 2 feet off the ground. Perfect for repair work or storage. Height: 19-1/2'' to 30-1/8'' Base: 12'' x 12-1/2'' Weight: 68 lbs. THIS ABOVE IS RIGHT OFF THE HF WEB SITE http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=34924 second, thing is IVE used a set of four very similar 12 ton jack stands from NORTHERN TOOL for years, with no problems what so ever , and when they are in their low setting they are at about the right height to allow you to work under the corvette http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...19&categoryId=0 Torin Pair of 12–Ton Jack Stands 2 heavy–duty steel jack stands at one low price! Double locking pawl and tooth design for extra protection. Minimum height is 18 1/8in. Maximum height is 28in. In Stock Ship Wt. 63.0 lbs Item# 144872 Discount Price... $64.99 Sale Price... $54.99 110% Guaranteed Lowest Price! youll be getting them at a significant discount if they price match, which they should " how to get killed useing your corvette without even starting the engine!"

MIKELLY welcome over to the DARK SIDE (CORVETTE OWNERSHIP) I own two currently, they may make you crazy but at least corvettes come with a HUGE SUPPORT GROUP and lots of parts suppliers (mostly overpriced) and of course the fringe benefits of corvette ownership (may not be family/job approved viewing) http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/randymucha/album?.dir=4755

http://ohiocrank.com/short.html CHECK OUT THE PRICE ON THE 454 sbc SHORT BLOCKand the heads below http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=306111&prmenbr=361 http://www.dartheads.com/manager/uploads/Tech%20-%20230%20IRON%20SBC.pdf

well said MICHAEL sbc and bbc engine mounts are NOT identical but THEY WILL USUALLY BOLT UP AND WORK interchangable in MANY applications yeah, Ill second the concerns about the oil pan clearance under the car/cross members ETC. and hood clearance, yeah it can be made to work but not as easily as a sbc, but then its SO MUCH MORE IMPRESSIVE! LOOKING, AND HAS A GOOD DEAL MORE POTENTIAL, BUT ID SURE INSTALL A FULL ROLL CAGE AND TUB THE REAR, THE POTENTIAL TO TWIST THE CAR UP OVER TIME INCREASES A GOOD DEAL

totally un-modified ford trucks that Ive owned and worked on in the past were comparable to chevy trucks IF totally un-modified that Ive owned and worked on in the past if they were maintained well the problem, is with getting parts after a few years(in some cases, and the cost of those parts) both chevy and ford parts are rediculusly over priced but in many cases chevy parts between differant years can be swapped or substituted , ford has a rotten habit of totally redesigning or obsoleteing parts, engine lines,trans, even bolt paterns making swaps difficult. both companys SUCK in some areas , but FORD seems to take PRIDE in making things difficult for mechanics

big blocks can and on occasion do have problems with valve train oil flow when the owners dont adjust the valves correctly or fail to keep the oil filters and oil changed frequently, if ONE rocker had a pushrod wear its way thru the rockers pushrod socket area its a reasonable bet that others are worn also and that you will need to replace at LEAST the rockers and probably the push rods and possibly , (rarely)the cam and lifters. you did not mention if thats a roller cam engine, (some #236 head bbc engines were?) theres a great deal of potential aftermarket cylinder heads to choose from, youll need to decide on the use youll put the engine too! Id first point out that mildly ported (236 heads ,"peanut port") with some bowl cleanup can make about 425-450hp while its true they are a huge restriction to making great hp they are not bad for low/mid rpm tq when you use the correct matching compression,cam, and intake. this is the only PERFORMANCE PEANUT PORT intake, I know of http://www.holley.com/products.asp?product=8017 youll need to get the compression up to about 8:1 DYNAMIC which will require about a 9.5:1-10:1 STATIC with cams that match the intake and heads yeah, to do that requires new pistons,or smaller combustion chamber heads,and the early gen IV won,t work, http://www.worldcastings.com/docs/05_cat_pg23.pdf which again require a new intake you may want to think thru the mods, gen V blocks are four bolt blocks and if your going to replace pistons you may want to add a stroker crank and boost the displacement to 489-496-511 while your swapping pistons http://www.speedomotive.com/489-496-506%20BUDGET%20STROKER%20KIT.htm http://www.speedomotive.com/489-496-506%20LONG%20ROD%20STROKER%20KIT.htm be aware that not all gen IV heads fit MOST GEN V BLOCKS, youll need to carefully research the differances http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1557883572/qid=1126017747/sr=1-6/ref=sr_1_6/002-0158106-8265605?v=glance&s=books

auxilary...................what are you asking for the CAR and all the parts to put THE CAR back togeather without the engine

get all the sleep you can NOW ...with TWINS sleep will become a fond distant memory

bring all the cash you can afford and then some extra, deals like that happen but not nearly often enought. I bought several "PROJECT CARS" complete with spare parts over the years for greatly reduced prices when the owners got fed up (or thier wives did)and got thousands of dollars in spare parts with them for pennies in most case the owners got back into the hobby in a few years and have ALWAYS regretted selling off thier parts/cars/engines/etc.

having helped converted several 240/260/280 (Z) cars in the past to a V8 and matching drive train, new seats and interior, paint, rear diff etc. Id say your looking at a MINIMUM of $7000 to get it correctly done and with a newly rebuilt engine, to easily over $20,000, while that sounds expensive, if you do do it correctly youll have a car that rivals $30,000 cars

swirl port heads?....are ...well lets say FAR LESS performance oriented than most heads available, they are designed for low rpm efficiency. if they were FREE Id refuse them ! as a potential choice if max hp was the goal of the engine build VS low cost. yeah I really hate to be a TOTAL WET BLANKET! but the best advice I can give you is spend the money to get good or excellent cylinderheads, a huge percentage of the engines hp potential is due to the cylinderheads you sellect

if its an ALUMINUM cylinder head a quality cylinder head shop can make the repair to standards exceeded the new strength, if its IRON in most cases its a DOORSTOP Id also point out that the reverse flow design LT1 heads used on the LT1 engines built since `year 1992 and newer bolt onto but can not be used on the gen 1 blocks without extensive mods to the cooling systems flow requireing cylinderhead and intake theres no water flow to the radiator neck(thermostat houseing) on an LT1 intake, LT1s use a water pump to radiator path since your buddies going with vortec heads hes EITHER got the EARLY design lt1 heads or the VORTECs won,t work on that reverse flow block design