nullbound

sorry man, i cant sell them. i'll either use this spare set on the 280 daily driver or later on my orange 240. if i use them on the 280, i'll be in the market for another set for the orange 240 project after i finish the silver 240 and what i'm doing to the 280.

what's required to put 240 bumpers on a 280? will the stock early 240 bumper brackets bolt onto the stock location for the 280 brackets? i tried to search for this topic after reading this thread... i recall glancing over the topic sometime within the last year. i seem to even recall someone, maybe fl327(?), mentioning he was going to make brackets for the rear to be able to mount the 240 rear bumper on a 280. i'm thinking of putting my spare set of euro bumpers on my 280 daily driver. and info here is greatly appreciated

thanks for putting me on the right track, david karey!! i disconnected the throttle position sensor on my car and noted zero change. however, when plugging it back in, the problem went away. the switch itself wasnt bad, but the connection to it was. when i reconnected, i actually pushed the plug in a little farther than it was, as well as wiggled it a bit. i disconnected the switch again and cleaned the terminals on the switch itself, as well as the plug. i also put some dielectric grease on the terminals. the problem was that there was some corrosion on the terminals that was preventing a good connection with the tps. problem solved in my case!! i dont think the car has run this good since 1978 thanks again!

i replaced the vaccuum lines on mine last night and it helped some, but it's still not exactly right. it still gives the stutters and pops. i know that one of the lines was leaking now and am glad to get that out of the equation. i'll do the check you suggested david for the tps. thanks for the tip!!

i'm actually having similar problems with my '78 280 daily driver. it idles fine, but giving it gas gets the pops and stutters until it's revved past 3000 rpms. it accelerates fine if i floor it all the time. normal driving, or anything in traffic, and i get popping through the intake. i had to richen my fuel mixture quite a bit and advance the timing to get it to run better than it was. but, it's still not great. i was planning on replacing my vaccuum lines... one of mine, (the one that runs from the charcoal cannister to a 't,' and then to the throttle body and distributor) is dry and hardened and seems slightly suspect. i'm hoping that's the problem in my case anyway.... any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

i believe you can get them through mufflex if i'm not mistaken... though i dont see them listed on the site. i seem to recall seeing an ad in a magazine showing oval tubing from them. http://www.mufflex-performance.com/newsflash.html

i agree with davidh. it only sounds reasonable as an 1/8th mile time, not quarter.

beautiful work!!

i'll second tim's suggestion yet again.

i'd have to second that recommendation about bowtie overdrives. they really know their stuff. the amount of details and documentaion, as well as the quality of work they did on the tranny i ordered is over the top.

there are so many things wrong with that i wouldnt know where to start...

nick, you're more than welcome! i'm happy to help!! and, at the same time, thank you for sharing the details!!! i'm glad to have been able to read the writeups for your project, as well as to set it up where everyone else here could see. what i did was very basic, as far as webpage design. i'll try to clean it up some this weekend, or whenever i get a chance. i'll email you later with another email address to use for sending the photos. and i'l probably be contacting you later to get in touch with your wheel specialist

hey guys, i put together a very simple, basic webpage to post the writeups that nick made for his z club. i'll try to do a little more work to it this weekend and add more of the pics from classiczcars. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/thomasash/

that's great that the old pump mounting loop will work with the carter. while you're at it.... just kidding. sorry, i cant see your new pic now. up until you asked about this, i saw the pic where you were sitting in the engine bay.

tim, if you have the packaging and can give me the part number, then that would be greatly appreciated. if not, i'll do like you said and talk to the guys at the counter. either way, thanks very much for your input! flash, you can use the existing wiring with your car if the wiring is still good. all you need is a ground and an positive accessory line for the pump, same as the stock pump in your car. i'm adding to and redoing some of the wiring in my car... and i got the painless kit for a really good price did you get an inline fuel filter to go before your pump?

actually, tim, it's funny you mention that. i was just trying to figure out what to use for mine... i basically want exactly what you described, the pair of studs with a rubber isolator bonded between them. do you have any kind of part number or info on what kind of mercedes that came from?

i have a fuel cell for my car which is currently being installed. i havent mounted the fuel pump yet, but the plan for my car is to mount it to the front side of the box for the fuel cell, where the line going into the pump is at about the same height as it is coming out of the sump. i'll be using the bracket that came with pump. i'll post pics in the next few weeks. you should be able to mount to something near the tank with no problems, though.

nick, i'd be happy to help. send it to me and i'll post it somewhere and link to it on this thread. and thanks for the details i asked for!! as far as the price you gave for the wheels, that's really not bad at all for what you got, especially considering the modifications. i'd be completely willing to spend that on the same wheels... you've got me thinking about calling your wheel specialist :D thanks again for answering my questions and i look forward to reading the write up on your project.

how much did it cost to have your wheels modified by the wheel specialist you mentioned? i LOVE those wheels. what offset are they? could you also give some details about your suspension and brake mods? ie, tell us about your coilovers (manufacturer, spring rates, sectioned or not?, etc), what you used for 5 lug conversion, what brake system, etc. sorry to ask for so much in a single post.... i'm really liking the direction you are going in with your car. exceptional work!! i think using the sr20 is very awesome, too!!

jegs was the cheapest when i bought mine.... sometimes you can find them on ebay, too.

i dont mind those either... if anyone is interested in purchasing, i'm sure you can find out the weight beforehand.

oops, i should have paid more attention to your post. what did you have to do to the tunnel that required 3 test fittings?

GA flash, a friend of mine did the cuts for me. he used a right angle die grinder with a cut off wheel cut the welds. at the same time, a pry bar and a screw driver were used for prying the pieces away from the body.

thanks for the advice everyone. mas280, it shows in your sig that your car is a '72, which is different from the '73 and later cars with respect to the tranny mounts. that was part of the problem, in that the jtr manual only shows a pic of what the pre-73 cars looked like in the tranny tunnel. after looking closely and taking some measurements on the tranny itself, i have decided i'm going to follow jeromio's advice and take out as much as i can. since the brake and fuel lines are in the way, i'll leave the part of the support behind them intact. i'd rather take out more than needed now, instead of finding out later that enough wasnt taken out.

i have a '73 getting the jtr treatment and am at the point of cutting the transmission tunnel brackets. in the jtr manual, it shows the brackets that need to be removed for a pre-'73 car, but the brackets are different on '73 and up cars. does anyone know which of the following is correct for the chevy installation with a 200-4r tranny?? option 1: just remove the brackets as denoted here by the white line: option 2: remove the brackets and the support underneath as denoted by the white line here: option 1 has already been done: i'm wondering if its necessary to remove the support underneath the brackets. the pre '73 cars didnt have this support and the jtr manual just mentions that there are slightly different brackets. i'm skeptical about removing the support if i dont have to, as i dont want to take away from any structural integrity that exists in the tunnel because of that support. at the same time, i dont want to find out later during installation of the motor and tranny that the support is in the way. any advice is greatly appreciated!!