Sparky

I did tons of research last year when I took my 240 off my state farm policy and moved to a specialty policy. I keep my cars in a commercial shop I share with a few friends and there we something in the hagerty policy language that didn't sit well with me. Grundy had some mileage restrictions and seemed really strict via the agent I spoke with and American collectors required the drivers licenses, SS and driving record of anyone that had keys to the shop I was keeping then in including the landlord! I ended up selecting Anpac's CHROME policy whos agent stressed that collector cars should be driven so they are fairly relaxed on some of the mileage rules as well as what the ad could be used for...they told me i could take it to work occasionally. I got a multi car discount plus they insure all my spare parts and my tools for very little money. They do check your credit, so if you've had some trouble may not get the best rate...I belIeve almost all companies do this now though. Either way it pays to really thoroughly check all the language in your policy and request a copy of the exact policy document before signing anything...unlike twenty years or even tens years ago there are plenty of choices out there now.

Those look great! Been eyeing those myself as a replacement for the swats that are on my car now. Maybe one day and can justify the expense of having a set of SSR's made for my car but for now I may spruce I up a bit with the XXR's.

If you come across a set in 4 lug I may be intersted in purchasing just the centers since you won't need them.

She's a beaut clark! Hope to see it this weekend sometime.

Currently running although I can think of a million things I could do on it right now. My new years goal was to only do work I could do in a weekend and make sure it's always running and driving for those rare nice days. Good to hear the project is coming along, seems like your getting close!

How's this project coming?

Great looking beast if a car, that subtle kit turned out great!

It would have been plenty deep if they landed shiny side down. Yeouch that was nuts.

I'm still intersted in a pair in stainless for my 240z.

as the title says, looking for some used or new forged pistons in good shape for L28, lemme know what you have!

Hey if you got it out you can sure put it back in! I had my car at the last SA Z car convention, but that was the last event I was at, it's seems to be in pieces more than it's together!

I was a long time ago but kinda fell out if it when I went knee deep in career. Ive not been to a z meeting In long long time but do think about now and again. I'd honestly prefer a no dues club that encompasses all classic imports since I have a BMW and relation to Volvo. Yourself?

Nice to see another z car guy in San Antonio, see you out there!!

Dang, is that meet worth going to? I used to drive up from downtown but was continually disappointed by row after row of c5/c6 vettes. I'd like to meet this guy as I'm building a 2.4 Volvo engine for my dads 1800 and I'd be curious what parts he's used.

There are tons of capable club members out there but many of them don't go to the meetings...have you tried the z-sport web forum? I know it must seem overwhelming but this really is a very straight forward swap and completely achievable by someone with basic knowledge of mechanics and wiring. Don't let a few wires or a couple bolts stand in your way, all the answers are out there in this forum and the others... Good luck, don't sell it, just work on whatever little thing you can a few times a week and you'll get it done.

You can buy a new performance products dampener on eBay for 80 plus shipping, I know some people have problems with than but it's got to be better than a used one and a heck of a lot better than paying 300 for one from a generic auto parts chain.

I've done it to a 240 I had about 10 years ago, it takes time, patients and plenty of forethought. I routed the headlights, signals and horn through the fresh air duct and then ran the starter wire, battery cables, alternator wiring and dizzy wiring down the transmission mount/transmission then down the oil pan and up to the dizzy. At the time I was able to re-use the original harness but I sliced it open and eliminated some non-essential wires and then re-wrapped it, I put an odyssey PC680 under the passenger seat for my power needs. I would highly recommend getting that expandable sleeve the Inzane posted OR plastic spiral wrap if you prefer but don't ever use that convoluted tubing junk. You could also just heat wrap the entire thing if you've thought things through enough. Also you could start with and EZ-Wiring harness or equivalent to make things a bit easier. take a look at the following websites for everything you need: Keep it clean performance plus connection Performance connection systems Nelco products Mikes XS Factory style connectors plus more.

Yeah I agree...megapixels are nice and all but unless your doing large scale prints all your doing is taking up memory...It's the glass you should spend all your money on and it's the glass that makes the photo (Speaking in generalities so don't kill me all you protographers out there). The difference between 12MP and 18MP is really nill if your printing at 6x8 or 8x12 but if you shoot poor quality glass on the 18MP and a nice L series lens or other prime type lens on the 12mp camera you'll be fooled to think it was the big mama-jama with the nice clear image. Of course if you can afford new I would buy new simply for the larger rear screens, live view, HD video, FPS rating, warranty and what not and just shoot the kit lens and rent when the mood strikes. One thing I would absolutely do if you buy Canon is to buy this 50mm right off the bat... at 1.8 this is a fantastic low light portrait lens for very little money. It does feel a bit cheap but it's lite and fast...did I mention cheap? In a crop body it's really 85mm (ish) but still very usable. Also protect you investment with some filters and buy a circular polarizer and ND filter.

Personally I would either go with a Canon or Nikon if I was looking to get into a DSLR. While Sony might have a decent selection of lenses they will never reach the level or saturation in the market that Canon and Nikon have. When it comes to buying used glass Nikon wins since most Nikor lenses will work on the newer DSLR bodies (there are exceptions based on the fact that some lenses have the autofocus motors in them while others use a in body motor to control your lens functions.) With canon you have to stick with the latest EF/ EFS lenses on the crop bodies but they've been making the EF mount lenses since the early nineties at least. If you decide to take your new SLR on vacation and loose your battery or charger or maybe even your eye piece (which you will) you will almost always find those bits at even the most rinky-dink of camera stores...try that with Sony. Also, when it comes to renting lenses for those special vacation spots, family times or other photo shoots you'll almost always have an easier time finding just the right lens with Nikon or Canon. my opinion is that the same principal applies to accessories like flashes and battery grips as well...you simply have more support with the big boys and that to me is money saved in the long run, especially if you really get into it. My last quip is a personal one...I've never had a Sony product last more than a year without some catastrophic failure...DVD players, MD recorders, head units and televisions....and those are relatively simple things compared to a DSLR. That and their approach to forcing proprietary **** down the consumers throat irks me to no end.

I've always had a fondness for the Ghia and even though it's not on my list, I wouldn't pass up an opportunity to purchase one. this one is a bit too radical for my tastes but dang! woh!

Plastic or Soda blasting is the best media for paint and coating removal. Soda doesn't really take deep rust out nor does plastic...in the cases of heavy rust they almost always move to a more aggressive media like glass. If you ever talk to a blasting company and they suggest straight sand our you car go someplace else. Be sure that the company your talking too has extensive experience with auto type sheet metal...the more foreign imports they've done the better. Chemical dipping comes in several different varieties from the "friendly" citrus based cleaner or the more aggressive true acid cleansers, call around and ask lots of questions before committing your time money and chassis to the process. It is true that if they do not properly clean the chassis residue can creep from seams and ruin new paint jobs. I believe that most reputable shops know how to do this and will gladly refer you to previous clients for feedback. good luck - I just had my 2002 Soda blasted and it came out great! I had them use plastic on the hood and it was a real PITA to get all the plastic media out of the nooks and crannies.

The late Maxima used that block along with some other things in the motherland IIRC, before you seal it up make sure that the rear oil passage is actually drilled internally as I've noticed that the front sump blocks are only drilled to the front.

yupp, lately I find my self aching for either a Z31 turbo or an S12 with a VGT conversion. I ran out of space to store cars years ago and sadly my income has not increased equally to my rate of spending but boy every once in a while I see a photo of z31 that fans the fire. good luck in your search, if you find one in San Antonio I may be able to inspect it for you.

I guess everyone here just has more vision than i do but I still wouldn't want to touch that:) All that rust while potentially removable via chemicals will still leave behind pitting. I've been told that high build primers will take care of most of that stuff but I just hate to think about block sanding and reshooting over and over again. Seeing as how i'm in the process of doing bodywork on my 2002 right now I'm probably not the best person to listen too...I really hate bodywork.