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HybridZ

Sparky

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Everything posted by Sparky

  1. ouch, A bit too rich for my blood for what would essentially be a novelty item. I'm not sure what price I was expecting but it wasn't that. thanks for relaying that info.
  2. Sweet, I have a Yakima rack on my 240Z for my bikes and snowboards. I've been wanting to build something more period "Correct" but if someone wants to sell me one of theirs instead I think I may be interested. Kenny, how much is that CL poster asking?
  3. f'n captain insane-o with these speeding engine swaps. man, I need to have some neighbors like you so I can get moving on my stuff.
  4. Hey Phil, I think Garret got into the high 11's on his 240SX trans before it tossed third, send him an IM to confirm. I'm running the sx trans right now and I like it, although I'm not abusing it and only running 10psi until I can get my tune up to date but it seems stout enough for my intentions. I paid 50$ for the trans, 110$ for machine work on the bell housing and 60$ to have the driveshaft shortened. I used the clutch I had in it.
  5. I've been collecting parts for this conversion for some time now and this has been a concern in the back of my head since the beginning. I'm at the point now where I was simply going to run it without a proper seal and be vigilant when it comes to checking and cleaning the front hubs (afterall, regular inspections on cars like these should be the norm) (not only that but do we really drive our cars enough miles or in enough conditions to cause any considerable damage?... doubtful) With that said though, should you decided to make a few of these adapter rings, I would be up for purchasing a few.
  6. had the same problem, now it's gone! Dan is the man, if you want something done without attitude go straight to the top! Thanks for all your hard work Dan.
  7. Wire shrinkage would be my guess. old wires get brittle with age and heat/cold cycles...so when they get really cold they shrink, causing intermittent breaks along the length of the wire. I would imagine that would cause all kinds of goofy problems. but yeah, I would suspect the alternator as well.
  8. Did you try clicking on the link I put in my post? I can see it and now I'm on a different computer...strange.
  9. Really? It showns up for me and I cleared my chache. hmmm... EDIT: ok I added a link, I don't think I'm going to get to the others tonight, I'm just about to go out of town for the weekend...
  10. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/Sparks11.jpg Ok, I know you mentioned keeping the swoopy bits of the first and last S in the old logo but I wanted to try this one first, It's not exactly appropriate the company but I feel it's a good direction. The green bar represents the earth or ground, with the "Sparks" name slightly below that plane to show that the company has established roots and is solidly planted in the local business world. without that grounding, "Sparks" could just slide or roll away given enough of a shake. The A is somewhat self explanatory, and it's almost TOO obvious... that A is just begging for some kind of treatment. Logo II is in the works and it includes a nice tree silhouette along with some of the elements shown above. perhaps by tomorrow night I can have that one posted.
  11. I'll throw a couple your way over the next few days but first a few questions... when designing for an entity, it helps to know exactly what that entity does, what services do they provide, for how long, any company history, company typeface, company colours? I'll sketch some out tonight and then throw them into illustrator tomorrow...any additional info you can provide will be most helpful.
  12. Finding the right ground source can be tricky as certain cars react in different ways...where is the battery ground to? engine block? firewall? starter? have you checked your engine to chassis ground wire? As you add more and more components to a system a weak point can develop as they pull ground. As far as the floating block goes, yeah what you've got pictured is what I'm talking about, just an insulated connector or bridge. you can use that to tie all the gauges into so that it doesn't accidentally ground out somewhere else, you could also just as easily use electrical tape and some alligator clips to test grounding points out, I just like the blocks to keep things tidy and organized. You did mention that you've already tried multiple grounding points so I'm wondering if the issue is something else. I would install one thing at a time, being very aware of the wires around it. Find the component that's causing the issue and the go from there. I don't remember this from your other post but how is your alternator? are you seeing a voltage drop at the ECU when the problem starts? I can't imagine that three gauges are pulling enough amps to cause a voltage drop but if the alternator is failing the smallest draw can amplify the issue.
  13. As Tim suggests, wire in one at a time to find the trouble gauge(S) My personal bet is on the wideband. Make sure your not grounding the gauges at a common point with the ecu, You can easily ground the gauges to a floating block and from that install a lead that will allow you to ground to different points, be sure to power off before swapping grounding points to avoid damaging the gauges. If at any point in your wiring, you wrap, or loop any of the wiring for the gauges around some of the ECU wiring your concentrating EMI interference...it may not actually appear to be perfect loop, even a very gradual spiral type wrapping of wires can exasperate the issue. Wire the gauges on their own power circuit, route the 12V supply away from any sensitive wires. After that should the problem still occur, re-wiring the sensitive wires with shielded wiring will be your next step, the dizzy leads are already shielded but the TPS and AFM are not. good luck!
  14. That I do not know, I do know though that the door is physically different on the top part. The plunger on the 280 is further forward than on the 240Z but the location is simply a slot cut into the top panel. With some clever thinking It's probable that you could move the lock+plunger assembly, after all it's not imperative to the basic operation of the door. You might simply be able to heat and bend the 280Z rod into shape. It's been a while since I've had a naked 240Z and 280Z door side by side so perhaps I'm making it more difficult that it really is. Beauty parts though eh!
  15. woh those look nice, too bad they won't fit the 280Z doors though as it looks like the door lock plunger is molded in.
  16. Wow, some really great shots from everyone! Paul, your photos are fanning the flames of my desire to move the the P.N.W. sigh...just a few more years in Texas and then I'm out! here are my contributions: Marfa Texas, Chinati foundation - Marfa Texas, M.B.C - Ft. Davis Texas, McDonald Observatory - Barcelona Spain, Sagrada Familia - Barcelona Spain, Gothic Cathedral (?) - Monterrey Mexico, St. Angelica - Austin Texas, Black Panda @ BeerLand Tucson Arizona, Architect Rick Joy's Studio I try to avoid any kind of post processing and just let the camera and my eye do what they need to do, although there are some photos I have that could really be improved with a bit of computer work. Camera is a Canon XTi, kit lens and then a 50mm 1:1.8 soon to add a 10-22 and a 35mm 1:1.2 (except in Mexico and Barcelona, taken with Canon A610 IIRC)
  17. how did you route the wideband cables? They can create a lot of noise and that might just be your problem. I know it seems like a long shot but take the wideband out and see what happens. You can probably just take remove the sensor from the car and then disconnect the power to the brain box.
  18. Justin, Will you be looking at producing both panels or just the vented piece?
  19. Not yet, but I need to soon. Where did you find your appraiser? Is this person a specialist in automobiles or just a general appraiser? I'm curious what the car looks like as well, 22k is a nice number!
  20. Hmmm, Joel, I think your right on with your offer, at 259$ I would seriously consider this piece. I'm installing an aftermarket AC unit in my car so the fresh air intake is not really needed anymore and it would be nice to seal it up to help prevent leaves and road swarf from getting back in the cowl area and trickling down to the lower fender area. I wonder what the shipping cost on this is?
  21. Good luck Mark, Sounds like a heck of a project!
  22. Update, Haltech ended up sending me a new E6X, no word on what the problem was...or if there was one in the ECU. I cleaned up the wiring a bit, Re-soldered all the connections and re-routed the wideband wiring (it was causing interference making the tach signal go loopy.) Car is idling just fine and is awaiting some free time so I can tune it a bit.
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