Vintage

The 74-78 consoles should be identical except for the factory lid on the 77-78 console.

I believe after '80, they all were on the driver side.

Yours has the same holes in the rear valence as my '75. Easiest, most definate way to tell would be the rear deck, I believe. Does it have the raised rear floor?

What they mean by turbo motor is its head/pistons. If its an original turbo motor, it should have a P90 or P90A head with dished pistons, and an F54 block. Either way, I think it its still got the turbo exhaust manifold, its a good deal.

300 horse is easily done on stock internals, but your going to need a better turbo. Stock is good for about 270 from what I've read. Yes, you can use the N42 intake, thats what I'm going with on my '75 ZT with Z31 ecu aswell.

If its the same as the TB in the Z31 VG30E, then its 54mm compared to the stock L28s 50mm. It bolts straight to the L28E intake manifold, but needs a spacer to keep the stock linkage and to clear the EGR runner on the bottom of the manifold.

Some of those interior pieces look fair, I'd keep those too, ebay em'

Its an Isuzu cabover truck.

I was hoping when I saw the thread title that it was your car, been waiting to see what it would look like painted. Reeaal nice, not a common color. Whats going on with the right rear arch in that one shot, though? Looks funny.

Weld in metal on the headlight buckets, making it as flush as possible, and glass the buckets and the airdam together. I'm pretty sure this is how Aziza did his.

The spacer is needed so the stock throttle linkage maintains correct geometry, and it also may be needed for the bottom-cooled tb's water lines to clear an EGR manifold. I'm not sure how thick it needs to be on a 240 tb, I believe the Z31 piece is shorter. I think most guys run a 1 incher.

Considering that the car has the 70-early 71 hatch vents, quarter emblems, and has 70-73 taillights, I'd bet its not a '74.

I havnt got everything all together, and I wont really be able to comment on any improvement because the only driving I did on my car before tearing it apart for the turbo build was onto a rollback and into the driveway. However, I suspect once I match the intake side of the spacer up, and port the intake runners a bit, it should be a worthwhile improvement over stock. My car will also be using a Z31T ecu and maf. Edit- Braap, I have already read all the info on the bigger throttle bodies, long time lurker here. I knew going into it that gains would be minimal if any at all, but I figured since I could do it for free, I might as well. I do plan on enlarging the runners on my N42 intake, and possibly building a new intake later. I have begun to model one in my Drafting class in my spare time.

Those replacement pans cost more than they're work, in my opinion, if I were you I'd pick up some sheetmetal of the right guage (18?) cut to fit, weld it in, seal it, then put some nice coating on it.

Yes, if it says coupe only, it will not work with the 2+2. Oh, on the tranny, the 5-speed was OPTIONAL up through 79, maybe even 80, I'm pretty sure.

The world does not revolve around Arizona, like I said, that car is only marginally worse than mine, and I paid 1800 for it, which is really a steal around here. More time than money? Used to be that was the only people who messed with Z's, budget-performance guys. If some of you guys lived on the east cost, you'd probably be building S13s or Hondas. The cars are 30-38 years old, what do you expect the floors to look like, really? You cant throw a stone around here without hitting a welder, so rust is really no big deal around here.

Who cares if its a 2+2? The damage shown in the pictures is not bad AT ALL, not near enough to junk the car over. In the words of the Governator, quit being girly men.

My dad has 5 or so Z31 parts cars, so when I wanted to get a bigger throttle body, the Z31 unit was an obvious choice, being that its very similar to the 240SX unit, and was available to me for free. Also pictured is the spacer I had made up by my stepfather who works at a machine shop, also a freebie. Z31 on left, stock '83 ZXT on the right. Spacer Spacer test fit I know this is really nothin special, but I never could find anybody else using the Z31 tb on an L6, and I'm kinda proud that it was all free. Incase anyone wants to know, the ID of the TB, after the taper, is about 58 mm, on the start of the taper, I think it was 61 mm. On a side note, anyone want that turbo intake manifold?

Glad to see this thread bumped back up. Looks like a good start, '372, too biggies I see are the sidewindow is abit long, and the door handle should be lower, the bodyline intersects the handle and the recess right at the middle. Heres alittle sketch I did maybe 3 months ago and forgot to post. The perspective of the frontend is off, but it was just something to pass the Biology time away.

Dont worry about the floorpan so much as the rail, just leave whats there alone until your ready to weld in a new panel, aslong as the rail is decent.

Its simple, just remove the straps, if you've got alot of gas in the tank, you may want to support it with a jack first. To drop the tank all the way out, you need to remove the filler neck hose aswell, but if I recall, I was able to get the shock out by just removing the straps and dropping the tank alittle bit.

I cant believe so many Z guys are scared of that level of rust. Thats about the same condition rust wise my '75 coupe was in, but I paid 1800 bucks here in NC. Mine doesnt have any hatch rot, but my pans are about the same as that, and my battery tray is completely gone, I can stick my head up through the inner fender, and its took a bit of the firewall with it.

Its a 77-78, easily told by the body panel over the back bumper which covers the gap. Also, 75-76 bumpers are closer to the body, but are taller.

Yes, you can just mount the flare, but you wont have any extra clearance, kind of ricerish in my opinion.

No, the single cam VG is an extremely reliable, durable, and dirt cheap motor. The biggie is to change the timing belt, its an interference motor.