Gritz

Nope..bad move...If you are going to use the 7m..be sure to at least deck the head, use metal head gasket and arp head studs...then boost 20psi all day long!!! unless, all that has been done already...

Do it!!! Most swaps are the same..mount it, wire it, tune it, prepare the car for it, kick butt with it!!!!

Now comes the most important part of any project race car.....TUNING!!!!!

If you have the money for a 2jz swap... there is really no debate...easy choice...

Im thinking about making one..maybe we can get a group by on strut tower bar base..after that it's easy...

Thats more than a little drop...looks to be 3 to 4 in...which is not easy if your going to do it right... Either way, thats what im going for...

My r154 fit's pretty well also, is the getrag bigger than the r154?

Yeah, this project cost money, if you want to do it right....I stand by what i said, that you can do this swap for about $3,500...but after that is where the real spending starts...unless you don't care about restoring and upgrading to performance components..

i didn't have to bang out my trans tunnel to fit r154..all i had to do want cut off the original trans mounts..my enigine sits about 1 inch from the firewall..

Alot of 1jz parts interchange with 2jz...any of the parts that don't interchange are the parts you prolly won't need...unless you are doing a full rebuild, then it doesn't matter if you have to wait a week to get parts... Also, everyone i know with a 2jz, gets there parts online anyway cause it's cheaper....The 1jz is also cheaper than the rb25 and 2jz and can make 300whp with basic mods, stock turbos.. Of course I'm bias...

Cool, great job...Whats next?....I hope to soon drive mine..i got to do some brake work, throttle cable..in due time....glad to see you up and running..

I'm working on my tach today, and I'm trying to figure out the wiring...From my understanding the tachs in the z's are the old school voltage type, not the point signal type like newer style tachs... The 1jz needs a signal booster so the tach can find the signal which is why i bought sgi-8 Dakota digital... Question is do i have to buy another tach, or can i use my stock one...I don't plan on reving past 8k anyway...even though the 1jz can do it

I prolly should have did the same....But i figured since everything was working pretty good i'd just keep the stock harness....when i went under the dash i got a big hack master surprise...lol...no problem i'll get it just takes time...

Update: I just wanted to let everyone know thats following my thread that I'm still very much still on task, but being produce manger at resort area food lion with summer fast approaching is leaving not much time for my project..And any home owner/family man knows that car projects are last on the list.... I am making progress, i pretty much finished my dash modification seems like it's going to be pretty cool with a 7in cd/dvd player in that location..i was watching Jurassic park 3 the other day in the car and everything worked very well.. What I'm currently working on is trying the sort out the rest of the in-car wiring and boy is it a nightmare..Wiring is taking the most time because I'm trying to wire everything back like stock..very hard but making progress. I've decided what i want to do for a wheel and tire comb on the s30 that will save money( i hope). I will be using my 18X8 and 18X9 "ROH drifter R" wheels i had on my 88 starion( Car of which I'm trying to sell) on the s30...So this of course bring to me to fitment. From a quick look it seems like i will need about a 1.5in wheel adapter for the front and a 2in adapter for the back not a 100% sure though...I believe the front wheel is -18 and the rear wheel is -20 I'm not sure on that either....All i know is these are cool wheels (and tires i might add)... that i already have...i paid $1200 for these wheels back in 2004...so I'm going to put them to use if it's posible... My pile of shame is... i still haven't fab an exhaust yet(down pipe has been done) and i still have brake work to do...Come to find out my master cylinder is frozen, so I'll get another... Every now and again I'll start the car and let it run but for the last couple of weeks the 1jz has been running like pure crap..the engine will barely idle and won't rev, the engine is missing also...So tinkering; i found that some of my coil packs have hair line cracks so i do the nail polish fix and install some new plugs, problem was still there.. One day i was surfing supramaina.com and found a thread about ECU's with leaky caps so i checked my ECU and sure enough i have 2 leaky caps that looked sorta fresh hence my idle and rev issues...So i plan on sending my euc to driftmotion for repair($70+ship) soon... thats all for now....

I think im going to make a thread for 18" wheels ....cause im thinking about running 18's also... i got my eye on xxr 502 http://www.victoriatire.com/wheel_XXR_502%20CHROMIUM%20BLACK

How much hp are you aiming for...

You know that there are many parts that interchange right...most major parts are interchangeable with the us motors(sr20-sr20det)....Maybe I'm different but i don't do high performance engine swaps and then take the car cross cuntry..Any high hp engine is not really something you would want to do that in... But if you do want a everyday, reliable, street car...i agree a ls1, lt1..etc is a good idea..cause those motors push good power in stock form..No matter what someone says, you can't get more reliable than a motor in stock trim, factory spec...

I would be happy with a 2in drop..but that extra .5 means that i would have to run camber plates and all that jazz..i'll have to be happy with 1.5in drop

16 or 17 dosen't matter really. If you are being that strict with weight and performance, mabye you should be looking at everything else, not which wheels to buy... there are other areas in performance you should do first..For a daily driver, street/strip, just pick the wheels you like the most..

How much weight is one of those rolls?

Wish my floor pans were that good....im going need some pan for my swap...great job!!!!

Got any pics...

What was your buget?...cause that plays a big role..plus the fact that v12 is pretty much uncharted waters...I remember years ago the 4cylinders were frown upon when it comes to racing....in the 80's know one would take a 4 over a 8...now that people are putting fort an effort into these engines, it's amazing what a 1.8-2.0 can do..im talking 1000+hp..do you think anyone in the 80's thought this was possible?? 4's are affordable now so that spurs growth..Back then it was just easier, cheaper and smarter to get your garden v8 and mod that The v12 biggest enemy is cost..it's not really worth it to even try to make a v12 powerful cause a 8 can do it cheaper...But i do think a v12 would be more powerful given the same cost, knowledge and avlibility..plus the fact that all the v12's you can get fairy cheap are crap engines...that doesn't help....

I think there is directions on the tube right?

Got something done today...check it out ...it was a pain in the butt to do...I still got some adjustments to do..but you get the idea...oh yeah got my IC pipes done and painted..on the car, pics for that later...