Drax240z

There is no straight answer. Lifespan may vary depending on usage and driving style regardless of power levels.

Listen to Alex, he has an uncanny ability to think exactly like a stalker.

I paid that for my Quaife!

Deleted a bunch of posts that MAY have had incorrect info. Basically if the thread started of with the words "I think maybe..." it got deleted. Just trying to keep things tidy a bit, hope no one takes offense.

Remember that if you are racing, especially in autocross situations, peak horsepower doesn't mean squat. A broad torque curve and good throttle response will make much more difference, which I have found myself with my compression increase. A dyno number is just a number... it is of little importance on the autocross track. I'd choose a higher than stock compression ratio and the potential for less boost anyday over a stock CR and more boost on the track. HB280ZT make sure you use a lightened flywheel as well, another huge difference and well worth the money. I had my stock one lightened to 17.75lbs, not too extreme, but it was a huge improvement over stock as well, and still lets me launch the car easily.

To the millions of men and women who made the supreme sacrifice in the name of peace and freedom, we shall not forget.

There are welders out there that can rival and surpass any machine. Take a look at bicycle frames sometime for one example.

Damn I hope that is tire smoke!

Super common on the KA's... I've seen that a few times myself. Actually had one that wore about 1/2 way through the aluminum boss that holds on the front cover and the slack side guide was totally gone...

The Vin Diesel ones are better.

Darn, he won't ship to Canada. I guess I won't bid.

Hey Brian, I might be able to help you out with those projects. Contact me via email and we can discuss some options. (rich -at- zensport -dot- ca)

I just sold a set of 4 of these, 14x7 for $500... NOS never been mounted, with origional caps and lugs still in the package. They do have some value to the right people. In BC these are the only non-stock wheels that you can qualify for collectors plates with, for instance.

Love it.

No and No.

Basically that is all there is to it. I did put the turbo cam in the N42 head however.

I put an N42 head on my turbo bottom end for a 8.3:1CR. I'd never build another 7.38:1 CR engine again unless it was an all out, peaky power, drag car.

I own it, it's a nice overview of efi systems and well worth picking up I'd say. Just don't expect huge amounts of depth. It's got great info on sensors and their functions, inputs and outputs though. I'd buy it again.

Personally I'd sell it and start anew. A chance to learn from past mistakes, you know it won't take you 1/4 of the time to build the next one to a higher level. Besides for me, the fun is in the building regardless of the fact I do like driving them... Sell it! Start from scratch. Make something cool. Let someone else have the car of their dreams while you continue to progress toward yours.

My experience with Vibrant has been really good actually. I haven't used any of their mufflers, but their headers, couplers, etc. are all really good quality and quite affordable. I wouldn't hesitate to give it a try.

Honestly, for what you are describing I'd say no more than $20/hr. If you had all the skills necessary to do it, and were a PE then you can look at big dollars. But $150/hr for something like this is out of the question unless you are putting yourself on the line as far as liability goes. (as in stamping drawings) On top of that you'd better know what you are doing and have done it before to charge that kind of money. Better yet work out something with him that gets you a cut of every item produced. That can work well for both sides. Best way to start estimating time is to take your best estimate for your time, double it, then tell him that is the minimum amount of time it will take you. I'm not kidding.

"The Devil Z" so it has been named by everyone but me... I guess it's stuck now.

If it's a street car, don't worry about the weight. You'll like the car far more for the street with a few extra pounds in seats, sound deadening, and stereo equipment. I've been down that road myself, and it's much more fun to drive when you are comfortable and can enjoy it! With that said I am stipping my car this winter for track duty.

Many of your forces are horizontal side loading, in which case a top bar only creates a parallelogram - a shape that flexes readily.

Not quite what I had in mind, but it's an easy fix. The loading that is going to potentially bend the sheet metal on the car is when it is on it's side. (90 degrees to the way cars normally sit) All your mounts are in bending in the current position, and worse when the car is on it's side. I was thinking a very lightweight member from... oh forget it, here's a pic. I'm sure you are fine the way you are, but if you plan on assembling the car on there at all you might add this member to the front end. Even 1/4" round bar would be fine for this member... Doesn't need to be huge.