Drax240z

Just too loud for my tastes...

I'm playing with mine a bit today too... trying to dial it in for my 440cc/min injectors. This is not necessarily that good of a map at present, as I've only just started building it, but you can get an idea of what the ignition values look like. The RPM fuel values are all over the place at the moment and aren't at all ideal.

BTW, I was just pokein fun at the L6 alum block/head statement.... (No insult ment) No worries poking fun, but lets be a little more certain about our facts before we go giving someone advice with facts that are way off... This is the type of statement I'd expect on many other bulitin boards, but not here! 8)

I'm happy with Burns Stainless (http://www.burnsstainless.com) but they are pricy. The pieces are REALLY nice though.

I was told October 20th for the official GT4 release... At least they aren't rushing it and leaving it incomplete this time.

Do a search around here, there are some good posts on SDS tuning from last june/july when I was dialing mine in... I just put in bigger injectors so I need to retune a bit as well...

I just installed a set of Ztherapy carbs on a 70 Z yesterday, and they are the cat's meow. Definitely a good option for those wanting to run SU's.

MMmmmmmm... SDS.... Big IC.... adequate fuel... "Low" boost..... = less time wrenching and more time driving.

I can't believe it's Scott's first time there as zcar of the month! That car has been through so many very cool phases I figured it could have been up there 2 or 3 times and mistaken for a different car each time. Kudo's ZR8ED.

Scottie I am interested in the steering wheel... sending you a PM.

Find someone with a hydraulic press, and ask them to press it out. Get a firm quote BEFORE you give it to them. Even with the puller I needed lots of heat, penetrating oil, and a big hammer. After a few days of that I payed someone to use their press and get it out for me. Cost me $35. I think I'd pay everytime and save myself the frustration... though you california guys might have it a lot easier than us up in the rust belt when it comes to removing these.

Well I never said there wasn't enough interest, and I was compiling one. I still am in a sense, but to be honest the video that I got wasn't quite good enough, so I am still searching for a digital camera so I can shoot some of my own footage. This project may take a while because things have really been busy here lately, but it will come.

I'm going to have to buy one just so I can see some pics of Dan's car... since he never posts any.

I believe we have a rocket scientist on our hands! Hehe. Just playing SleeperZ. I know you were secretly trying to help out the colourblind (or colorblind if you prefer) members of the board.

It's been quite a while since I posted anything about my car and how it's going. Now that I am at work a couple hours early I have a chance to recap a bit. (for those that might be interested) The car: 72 240z L28ET swap I drove it from July-November last year for the first time and loved it. In November I took it off the road for the winter and to do some mods. It's May now and I should have been driving this car for the last month, but owning your own business can really sap away your time. Over this winter I have added 440cc/min injectors, Walbro fuel pump, medium NPR intercooler (upgrading from the small one), Recaro seats (got a good deal on a wrecked rally car), powdercoated & ported N42 intake, aluminum fuel rail, braided SS hose/hardline for the entire fuel system, turbo hood vent, new oil pump, large oil cooler, etc. I've also spent a large amount of time re-wiring some things, including the removal of a lot of wire made redundant from the SDS installation. The next parts to go on the car are coilovers (225f/250r) with sectioned strut tubes, and illumina inserts. Following that is the roll bar I have half fabricated. I'm debating whether to do this stuff now or just get it on the road and drive a bit before to work out other bugs. Also in my infinite wisdom I started doing the bodywork where it was needed... Not sure where this fits into my schedule or how far I'll go with it right now. Anyway, that is a bit of an update on my project. I hope to be knocking on the door of 260rwhp with this setup. (SDS, 440cc injectors, medium NPR IC, 60mm TB, stock turbo) I think ~300rwhp is just a 3" mandrel bent exhaust & downpipe away at this point, but I've promised myself to address the braking situation more completely before adding more power. (I'm still running stock brakes, though in good condition) With the brake upgrade comes my 5 bolt conversion, and some new shoes too. (16x8" RX7 wheels & some sticky meats yet unpurchased) Anyway, this is time I could be working on my car so I am going to stop now. Z ya!

Triangulated is much better than just a straight bar. Rod ends will only constrain movement by the strut towers in 1 axis. The movements of the strut tower under hard driving aren't just in that 1 axis though. They move fore and aft as well, so triangulating to the firewall is a really good idea. (given that the firewall is reinforced to be able to take such loads) You'll likely notice a huge difference in how your car turns in at anything more than 6/10 driving.

Man that is gonna be just scary.... I think an RB might be in my future.

Er, don't you have a CNC machine shop? Pieces don't get much easier to make than these....

Hmm, can't help you much here. The damping coefficient I've always had to measure on the specific strut in the past, but I can't seem to find any of my info on that just now. CoG height is probably in the area of your belly button while you are sitting in the car. As for kinetic friction, use skidpad 'g' values and you will be very close. ie: a 0.90g skidpad result corresponds quite closely to a coefficient of friction of 0.9. Be aware that this is more coincidence than anything else, those numbers don't mean the same thing at all.

It can take a long time to prime the oil pump by cranking. (a loooong time) Pull all 6 spark plugs while you are doing it. Hopefully after spending a whole pile of $$$ on getting your engine rebuilt you've spent something on a decent oil pressure gauge too.

And doubly so when using 4130.

I think you could probably by an used hoist for about the same price. (or at least I have found a couple here in the $1700 range) I'd certainly prefer that to getting on an off a creeper everytime I needed another tool.

Honestly at this point I haven't put enough miles on my CFDF to really give you a verdict either way, but so far I like it. (5000miles) It grabs well, isn't a bear in street driving, and I've no complaints so far. (realistically I am probably putting down ~230hp at the wheels) We'll see how it handles the winter mods and more power this spring. (bigger intercooler, bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump, more boost )

I guess I am trying to find a balance between 'bling' and performance for my ride. I like the looks of larger than 14" wheels on the Z, but for reasons Jon has mentioned, I won't run 18's. I've bought a set of 16"x8" wheels that I think are a good comprimise, weighing less than 16lbs each, and still not looking like wagon wheels on the Z! Plus I can run reasonably big brakes and get lots of rubber on the road. My hope is once my coilovers are installed with sectioned struts, I'll be able to run the car low enough that it looks & performs well, and still have a reasonable amount of suspension travel. In summary I am trying to say that there is some balance available for those that want the big rim advantages and decent performance along with it. However, I still wish my 13"x7" wheels would clear my brakes...

I've done it a couple of times with no ill effects. However, my situation was identical to Terry's. 600cc motorcycle powered formula car, weighing about 520lbs. We were running slicks however. The prodecure I used was as follows: - Cut shaft to desired length - Face both ends in a lathe - Bore reasonably large dowel hole in each side with interference fit - Chamfer both ends for weld - Press in hardened dowel to align shaft - Using V-blocks for alignment, TIG weld shaft In this case we didn't use any type of sleeve over the shaft. One thing to consider when using shafts for anything, is that diameter is MUCH more important to the strength of the shaft than thickness of material. For example, 3/4" solid shaft has ~3 times less strength than a 1" shaft with a .095" wall thickness, despite the 1" shaft weighing 3 times less! Of course this is in pure torsion, but it's worth considering when dealing with shafts.