lifegrddude

It looks to me like you have the T25 turbo from the later 300ZX's. Those turbos were switched to a 5 bolt exhaust housing if memory serves me correctly. I never actually tried to put one on so I can't help you out on the fitment issue. John 82ZXT

Here is dyno graph I found of a 73 L28ET Z. It's not mine, mine is the link below it. When I dynoed, I asked the operator to only take it up to 5600 ish since I thought it was no use going to redline, I kinda wish I he had taken it 6500 though as my peak hp was at the cut off. I am curious see how my power band will look to 6500, I'm planning to redyno my Z sometime in the spring. http://dynoperformance.com/search_details.php?ID=751 http://dynoperformance.com/search_details.php?ID=407 John 82ZXT

Thanks for the replies, I double checked the pop off valve's spring tension (forgot to mention I was running an HKS adjustable one) and it's set at 14psi, higher than I will boost in my current state of tune. (max I do is ~12) I had noticed this oscillating/surge was only occuring during mid throttle corners and it was severely affecting the car's attitude, making kinda unstable and scary since weight transfer kept shifting. I checked the dip switch positions and it checked out, so I adjusted the wastegate response via the balance knob on the boost controller. After a few late night blasts on an empty freeway, the part throttle surge has been eliminated. I had to slow down the boost controller's response to the wastegate. Thanks again for the ideas and suggestions! John 82ZXT

I'm running one on my a/t ZX. A blow off will help even under light boosting loads as the compressor surge will make it feel as though you've let off the gas when you haven't. (i.e. during the middle of the corner when you have to reduce throttle pressure it will make the car unstable when it surges) If you're drag racing, you would want one anyways since at the end of the strip you have to let off and that pressure would have to be relieved some way. Just my opinion though. =) John 82ZXT

Hey everyone, I've got a slight problem with my 82ZXT. I've noticed it only when my boost controller is powered on (Greddy Profec B old style). During part throttle boosting, (~.3-.5 BAR out of a max of .7) I can hear this cyclic fluttering and the power will sag/surge along with the boost gauge fluttering. When I turn the controller off and do part throttle boosting, it's fine. WOT runs show no problems either, it's only during light boosting such as merging onto the freeway. For those of you running with a Profec B, have you had this problem? Or is there something else I'm missing here? I'm going to mess with the balance knob once I'm done with my classes today, but have any of you actually had to have changed the dipswitches on the side of the box to the other internal wastegate setting? This surging/oscillating problem isn't major since I don't boost often, but it is annoying, and I don't think it's healthy for the turbo when it occurs. I am running a blow off valve too btw. Thanks. John 82ZXT

If you have a friend who can read/translate Japanese, I believe it was a speed shop called Arita Speed who campaigned an n/a sr20 powered S13. Option magazine did a feature on their car and it dynoed out 294hp. The most significant thing I can remember it having were individual throttle bodies. They were originally making ~270hp before the throttle bodies being added and then gained 20 more after fine tuning them. John 82ZXT

I'm running a Greddy S valve on my setup, and I only get a slight hint of flutter during high boost runs (12psi) and let off. Otherwise all I hear during light cruise and low boost (factory boost) let offs is the blowoff valve. I did have to tighten it a bit from the factory settings (roughly 1 1/4 turns I think) due to the valve opening under boost. I only have one nipple hooked up since mine is not recirculated back into the system. John 82ZXT

http://www.brightheadlights-hid.com/Headlights-sealed-beams.htm Just another site for HID's. Their first gen kits are cheaper at 299 bucks. I believe the kits are manufactered by Sylvania. John 82ZXT

You can get also try telling them you need plugs for a 92 Turbo Eclipse, (newer car, easier to find parts?) they use the same plugs as the Z, just have to be sure and tell them you need 6! John 82ZXT

Haha I'm sure I have 370's, lol pulled the last 4 off of the SVO myself. My fuel system still needs to be upgraded though. I'm still using the stock pump and fpr so I know the pump is probably being pushed pretty hard when I use the higher boost settings. I'll redyno my setup whenever I get a breather from class. At 9 psi with the intercooler, from what I can tell is that now I'm running super rich up to 5000 revs before it leans up a bit. At 4000 I see an ocassional black cloud. Whenever the heck I get around to dynoing, I will use the 9 psi setting and see if anything has changed. Here's the dyno sheet from my run last year with no intercooler. http://dynoperformance.com/search_details.php?ID=407 John 82ZXT

I'm using the 370's with the stock efi and stock fpr. When I dynoed the motor last year with the stock turbo and 9 psi, I was running an a/f ratio between 10-11, and on the second pull it hit a high of 12.7 at the top. (6000 revs) I have since upgraded the turbo and just recently got an intercooler installed, but I haven't had time to dyno the setup yet. With the 370's, it's a bit rich at idle, but there aren't any ill effects. Nothing out of the ordinary during cruising either. The highest I have run my setup on 91 octane gas is about 12 psi with no pinging or odd readings from the narrowband a/f gauge. Before the intercooler, I could only run about 10 psi without pinging or bad readings. John 82ZXT

Very nice 510! I think the flares look awesome. The brake upgrade is sweet as well. Excellent job on the dime! John 82ZXT

I had mine adjusted at 18 teeth before, but it would sputter past 4800 revs. I adjusted the tension to 12 teeth and it's been fine ever since. This is with 370cc injectors btw. John 82ZXT

Cool, thanks for the info! I'll start saving up for a box next then. John 82ZXT

You'll pretty much have to have one custom made as no company makes a downpipe for the 280ZXT. I think JeffP might be doing another downpipe build, but you'd have to contact him about it. John 82ZXT

Hey everyone, I have recently completed my intercooler installation on my ZXT and noticed that I was having a slight misfire problem under higher boost. The current gap is set at .036" and I was thinking about closing the gap down to about .031". Is there any downside to running a smaller gap? Or is there another possibility to the misfire? I am using an MSD Blaster coil and 8mm plug wires. Thanks. John 82ZXT

Good luck at the track! Hehe, I'm hoping to time my Z next month at the Fontana street legals. I just got my intercooler in this weekend after 3 days of work. Keep us posted on your times. John 82ZXT

There are some bolts underneath too, you have to feel for them. They are really hard to find the first time you do this, but once you figure out where they are, it's cake. I recommend using a mirror and a flashlight to help you locate the bolts unless you have can work in really tight areas and use your fingers to find the bolt locations. John 82ZXT

A pic of my bro, me, and a friend at Carlsbad raceway the weekend they closed for good... Sucks that we have no 1/4 mile track near San Diego now. Closest one now is Fontana.

It was runnning like this for about 3 weeks. I finally got rid of the problem last night after spending about 7 hours trying different things and after I got done talking to a friend at a local street legals event. (I think my neighbors hate the sound of my Z after hear it rev over and over!) To keep things short, the things I did right before I got it to run well were: adjusting the TPS, tightening the fuel injector screws (they loosened up somehow, now I get a full 20" in P with the motor warmed up), rewired the O2 wire with about 10 inches of fresh wiring to the ECU pin, adjusted my AFM to run richer (was at 18 clicks leaner for the 370cc injectors, now it's sitting at 13). On cold startup, the motor is a tad rough, but after about a minute it clears up and runs. I took it out on some empty back roads and tested it from 1st-D revving to 6200 in each gear and it didn't sputter or hesitate. Ran and pulled hard all the way through each gear. Boost was able to be increased to 10 psi with no problem and I am able to powerbrake again without having the car sputter or fall on its face. The A/F gauge reads rich now at freeway speeds like its supposed to. I hope this can help give you some ideas. Before I got it to run right, I could not go to WOT at all, and going uphills was a challenge as occassionally I would get a misfire, especially when the car was cold. John 82ZXT

I've seen some race exhausts back in Japan that measured anywhere from 80-100mm (sorry dunno what that is in inches) but I know it's gotta be bigger than 3".

Hey everyone, I'm having a problem with my 82ZXT. At WOT it will pull fine to about 3500rpm then hit a "wall" and by 4300rpm it will start to knock. This is on stock boost btw. I can hit full boost so long as the revs are below 3500, but after that, it just dies. I have cleaned all my contacts and messed with the ECU connections as well. Vacuum is reading at 19" in Park and 16 in Drive. Light throttle cruising is fine, but i did notice that at 3700 revs my A/F gauge (the non wideband ones) will read lean unless I back out of the throttle and then resume. I'm guessing it's either the pump, regulator or TPS? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! John 82ZXT

The two companies that make custom harnesses for the 280zx are Trust/Greddy and HKS. However, you don't need the harnesses. You just have to splice into a few wires to get it to work. That's how my HKS is hooked up. John 82ZXT

When my friend and I compared throttle bodies off his 240sx and my sister's Nissan pickup, they were identical so I'm going to assume that the throttle bodies are all pretty much the same except for the coolant routing. John 82ZXT

Cygnusx1, you are right on target about the intake hose collapsing. When I did my turbo swap, I thought about removing the spring wire, but noticed the rubber became extremely flimsy without and put it back in. I believe your hose is squishing down when the turbo starts to pull a lot of air. John 82ZXT