lifegrddude

Sounds like a Bosch blow off valve to me. Is it round and plastic with two ~1" openings on it at 90 degree angles from each other? Anyway, they're okay so long as you don't crank the boost too high because their diaphragms rupture easily. Lots of the VW guys ditch it for an aftermarket unit. John 82ZXT

You can cap off the coolant lines, it's not necessary to run them. It will save on plumbing headaches. John 82ZXT

Afshin has a tt i/c on his ZXT, I saw it during the MSA show since he was parked next to me. I'm sure he can give you pointers. John 82ZXT

Hey everyone, just wondering if you all know of a rim repair shop. I have two rims that need to be fixed. They are slightly bent, nothing major at all. If anyone can point me to a shop I'd really appreciate it. Thanks. John 82ZXT

Who needs a search function when we've got Bastaad? Should have a link that says "ask Bastaad" lol John 82ZXT

You probably have a faulty wastegate or either that, the little dash pot to the wastegate is stuck open. Look on the turbo to where the rod for your wastegate attaches. See if it in the closed position and not open. John 82ZXT

No, Japanese tracks are 402 meters long, which is the same as the 1/4 mile track. They call 1/4 mile runs "zero yon" aka 0-4 for 400 meters. John 82ZXT

Don't mean to thread jack, but I'm going to be installing my i/c this summer since I have my summer intern job lined up. Even with 91 piss gas and ~15 psi the stock HG is good as long as I don't ping? I'm only asking because as far as I know, I still have the old 22 year old HG sealing my motor. I've never messed with an HG before so I'm kinda hoping I don't have to take the head apart. lol John 82ZXT

Oh my bad. So it is an internal wastegate still? Use the regular internal wastegate (actuator) setup then. What I meant about the overshoot settings was that Trust has a dipswitch setting on the side of the Profec to compensate for boost that continues to rise (overshoot). However, I think it's because your settings are for the external wastegate. Switch them to the internal actuator one and I'm certain your problem will be solved. What spring tension is the actuator set to open at btw with the controller off? Also are you using a ProfecB? I'm using one and that's what I'm basing my suggestion off of. John 82ZXT

I don't know exactly what a dual port wastegate is, but try setting it up using the overshoot setting of the dipswitches for the external wastegate. If that doesn't work, try the regular internal wastegate settings. John 82ZXT

Is the Accord a 5spd? I had an old Accord a long time ago, and it would do as you're describing. Actually happened on two different occassions. First is to check all your vacuum lines to make sure you don't have a leak anywhere. Hondas are speed density so the slightest vacuum leak makes them run poorly. The other fix was the clutch pedal sensor. It's a little harness at the back of the clutch pedal area that you simply unplug and it made my Accord stop bucking like it was starving for fuel. Hope that helps. John 82ZXT

You're right about the crushed caps being a little slower to respond to venting, but that's the tradeoff you get for having a blowoff valve that can handle higher pressure. The response time will be slower, but your valve won't leak and you won't lose boost pressure when you crank up the psi. If you're not pushing too much air, I wouldn't worry about it. John 82ZXT

A pintle cap is the plastic "cap" that covers the part where the injector needle is at. You have to remove that in order to get them to fit on a ZXT manifold. Basically just follow what's been mentioned above. Oh and make sure the SVO injectors you're getting are the brown ones and not the green ones. Green ones don't flow as much. John 82ZXT

Blow offs do wear out over time, Greddy even sells replacement parts for theirs. However, what Yo was getting at is that if you crush the top of your blow off in some, it will support higher boost b/c the spring tension is increased. John 82ZXT

Bastaad, I dynoed my Z at 9 psi and it ran leaner towards the top, but nowhere near 13:1. It was more like 11:1 at the top. My car was running in the 10's for most of the run, I could see black puffs of smoke swirling out the exhaust during the run until about 5K or so. My timing is completely stock and the only mods I had on that run were a catback exhaust, K&N filter, MSD coil and a ProfecB boost controller. You could try a piggy back fuel controller to adjust the fuel map, but I don't know which companies have a product that's compatible with our old technology. John 82ZXT

Okay, thanks! Makes perfect sense. John 82ZXT

I was just thinking about this and I'm not clear on exactly what a crossflow head is and what a non crossflow is. I know the L28's are non-crossflow, but I am just curious what is a crossflow head? Can someone explain this to me? Sorry if this is stupid. John 82ZXT

Awesome vid, well worth the wait! I'm loving the Z's, I wish I'd see more the strip here in San Diego. BTW, do you know what was under the hood of that blue Z? He was ripping that R33 off the line and kept increasing the lead the whole way. John 82ZXT

You can check the bov by pulling it off and pressing on the diaphram and see if it binds or not. If you had a couple vacuum caps with a nipple for a vacuum line, you can check to see if the bov holds pressure. Anyway, look around your i/c piping joints, they're the most common cause for air leaks. The only other thing I can think of would be a defective air regulator. John 82ZXT

If you have it set for an internal wastegate and you're still overshooting your boost, flip the switches in the diagram as shown for the other internal wastegate setting for overshoot problems. I have a Profec B on my Z and it works perfectly fine. Have you tried messing with the Mild/Sharp knob along with your boost setting? If you have an open stretch of road where you can hit between 50-90mph without causing harm to anyone but yourself, then you'll be able to set the Profec B. Make sure you have an accurate boost gauge though. It could help to have a passenger due the setting while you drive. John 82ZXT

Hey nice #'s you got there. That's weird how your Z is running way leaner than mine did at 9 psi though. At topend, my a/f was only about 12.0 ish or so. Maybe 1 psi changes the fuel map a lot? If you'd like to take a look, it's at: http://dynoperformance.com/search_details.php?ID=407 I hope I can 200 to the wheels like your Z. That'd be nice. John 82ZXT Oh btw, Jersey, I did your method about the fuel injectors (hehe) and two of them were squirting kinda funny so I'm assuming they're the bad injectors.

How about jumping manufacterers and stuff a 3sgte motor from a jspec MR2, or a 2JZ ( I have an Option magazine article w/ pics of that 2jz)? That'd be unique, although a CA is pretty rare to see nowadays too. Is your motor going south? Last summer I only saw one CA powered Silvia back home in Japan, the rest were all SR's. John 82ZXT

Thanks for the info too Jersey, your way of checking is a good way to see if I do have a dead injector, even if I have to carry a fire extinguisher. lol It'd make for an easy preliminary look at the injectors. I'm going to see if I can check over Thanksgiving since I'll have a break from class. Right now as it is, I have the AFM cranked 15 teeth. It idles a bit rough, but after 1300rpm it is fine. I'm pretty sure one of the injectors is probably bad since from what everyone else is saying, their car idles fine after adjusting the AFM a bit. John 82ZXT

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll pull them out and have them checked. I'll also look for that idle adjustment screw in the AFM. As far as I know, I've only messed with the injectors and AFM. I haven't touched anything else that would affect the car in any other way besides the AFM and upping the idle a little bit. Thanks though, I'll definitely check the injectors again. John 82ZXT

Bernardd, where is the idle air screw located? is it inside of the AFM or some where else? thanks for all the help!