Georgia Flash

As far as I know they are 15x7 I would have to take a measurement to be sure.

Tim I got those as part of the package when I bought the 76 Z. They are TSW wheels but that is about all I know about them. The guy that sold me the Z never had them mounted on the car. They came to me in boxes, used. He had them drilled to fit the Z car. They are nice looking wheels the only thing is I already had the Panasports on the way so I am not using them. I was thinking of selling but you never know, I may get another Z someday If I could keep my wife from beating my brains out that is. Oh yeah almost forgot, they did come with adapters.

Pete Notice, no signature

Dial up connection.....what's that? Just kidding, I had my older project on jackstands for about 5 years also and went insane I think I will start a new club called "back yard racing," because now that is where it is, sitting in my back yard under the Oak tree. I had to buy a running Z before I lost my mind any further. I then transformed all the goodies that were beginning to clog up my basement and spare room over those 5 years onto the new Z. Uh oh yeah you can see the new Z in my signature

I had planned on being at the last SEZ event held eventhough I didn't even have a running Z at the time. However, as luck would always have it, I was called in to work because of our short handedness. I have worked nearly 400 hours of overtime this year. The money is great but you sacrafice a whole lot of your free time in the process. When is the next evet Scottie? I even have a running Z that I can drive now.

Thanks Aaron

Silver Creek, GA Located just about an hour North West of Atlanta Go Rome Braves!!

Yes it would be nice to see the finished product live and in person Then maybe I could get another look at the wiring in the engine compartment.

Just get the fiberglass hood and be done with it

Daryl, I am having problems with my newest Z's heater also. I suspect mine may be the heater valve. I have had one of these go bad in a ZX I once had and it spewed hot water and anti freeze all over the passenger side floorboard. Victoria British sells these things so take you a long week end and get that bugger out before someone riding with ya gets fried feet.

If you are talking about the MSA kit it comes with the hardware you need to bolt it up to the crossmember. No welding involved.

I've got the movie in my VCR right now and I have the answer to your question. Forest Whittaker's character is called "Charles Jefferson." By the way he has a bad ass Camaro in the flick. Great movie! I'm looking for the S30 in the parking lot now. The ZX in motion is great to see .

I used to praise MSA but not anymore!! Hang around long enough and order enough BIG stuff from them and you will be the same way. However, except for the fender fit problem, I have been extremely happy with Vic Brit. They do seem to ship faster than MSA.

Man when I went to tech school I saw some of the stuff people built for themselves. Most of them wouldn't even start when they got them back into their cars. When they did start they ran like crap most of the time. I have said it once I'll say it again. Some folks do not have the know how to build an engine the way it should be built. So therefore people like that like ME will always have to pay someone to do it for us. Yes it may not be as cheap as a do it yourselfer but then again it will come with some type of warranty. On another thought, I wouldn't hire an engine builder to build me a deck on the back of my house nor would I try it myself and waste more money than I would have if I just paid someone to do it. Having said that, I am pretty damn sure that there are some folks on this site that can handle building an engine for themselves and my hat's off to them. But then there are some of us that get tired of seeing "Save money and build it yourself" in almost every post like this one. By the way I mean no offense to anyone, just keep doing what your doing and have fun at it.

Ebay baby! I have bought a book for my old project 1975 280 and I sold the one I had for my long gone 1980 280ZX. By the way I had the disk from COurtesy on the 80 ZX and I prefered the actual book better. Go to ebay and try looking for one. Maybe you will get lucky.

Beware of the Victoria British fender I have a 250.00 piece of garbage that will not fit on my Z that I got from them. I ignored others who said not to get it because it would be too short. It will not bolt up to the bottom of the car if you get my drift.

Yeah I tried to stop the clip at the point where the tag is visable but it seems to be blocked out or something. Could not see it.

Chrome never goes out of style man it's like old levi jeans!!! I too prefer the flash under the hood and lets face it, if we were keeping it all "stock looking" under there then I guess a beefed up 350 is out of the question then huh. That is what this site is all about I thought. Junk the inline six and give me two shiny valve covers and a bright chrome breather to go with them!

I'll bet money that he told the policeman investigating the accident that he simply lost control or a dog ran out in front of him that caused him to swerve into the pole and fire hyrant. Lets just hope that there were some witnesses to this stupidity instead of just his dumbass friends with the video camera.

Never mind, I went to Z Car.com and found this helpful thread. Author: escanlon (---.worldaccessnet.com) Date: Oct 18, 2001 4:48pm Your post states that you are having problems, not that the door(s) will not shut. Being an ex-body man, I'll give you a few things to check first. Unless the car has been in an accident and the door opening or door itself have been tweaked out of shape, most problems with the doors are due to misaligned latches, hinges, or worn components. Presuming that it is adjustment or bad parts and not bent items check the following. First perform a visual check of the door. Check to make sure that the door is aligned properly within the door opening. Check the spacing along the top part of the window frame, the spacing between the window frame and the quarter window, also the spacing between the door skin and the rear quarter panel. I also check the spacing on the front of the door, above the hinges and the front fender. All of these should be even, and consistent in width. The gap should not appear to be excessive one edge with it's opposite component, i.e. front of door to back of door; top edge by windshield cowl and lower edge, etc. If all these appear in order then you have an adjustment problem with the latch mechanism. If however, there is a problem with the alignment, before you go and loosen the hinge bolts behind the kick panels, first do the following: 1. Check if there is any vertical play to the door, that is, with the door open lift the door gently. If there is a noticeable movement up and down, then you may have a worn pin or pins that are causing the alignment problem. Check to make sure that the hinges are solidly affixed and if so, then you definitely have a worn hinge. Although it is difficult to find new hinges, you might need to replace one or both. On Chevy's it is a known problem and parts stores sell new hinge pin inserts to fix this. This is an often overlooked problem, so check this first before you dismount the door or start adjusting the latch etc. 2. If the hinges are in good condition and there is no vertical play, check your weatherstripping. I know of a case where a guy filled the cavity in his weatherstripping with silicone in order to get a "tight" seal. Unfortunately, it also increased the thickness of the gasket and made it almost impossible to close the door without a hydraulic ram. He finally replace the weatherstrip. Check to make sure that the weatherstripping is mounted properly on the lip of the door opening, also the rubber splash guard on the front part of the door just above the hinges. Check the lower weatherstrip on the under lip of the door. Any one of these could cause the door to shut hard. 3. If both the above are ok, check to see where the latch is striking the striker plate. The striker plate is on the door frame and the latch is on the door. Both must line up in order to catch. The latch on the door has countersunk screws and hence is fixed in position. The striker plate on the door is the major adjustment item. It can be positioned along the 4 axis on each of the screws. Close the door, if the door exterior is not flush with the rear quarter panel skin, then you need to move the striker plate in (towards the seat for a protruding door edge) and out (for a sunken door skin). If the door is difficult to close AND the handle is hard to operate, check the bottom of the striker plate to make sure that it isn't inclined too far inward in relation to the top of the plate. That is, the door latches, and the skin lines up, but it feels as you are forcing the door to close and forcing the handle to open, then the bottom part of the latch is stressing the latch, Loosen the screws, and WITHOUT moving the top part of the plate, adjust the lower portion of the plate outwards. Align and retry. If the door latches but springs back when slammed the bottom of the striker plate is probably out too far. This appears to be a half-way latch, and only the safety position has been achieved. If when closing the door, there is a noticeable thunk, and when opening the door the door seems to "DROP", then the striker plate is set too high. The reverse occurs when the plate is too low, although in this instance the door usually will not latch. If you find that you have to move the door within it's opening, then it gets a little more complicated. In a nutshell; you need to remove the electrical components attached to the kick panels, remove the kick panels, and preferably with a jack supporting the door, or a friend, loosen the hinge bolts located behind the kick panels and adjust the door to fit. It makes it easier to remove the striker plate mechanism in order to ensure a good fit. DO NOT remove the hinges from the door, or loosen these bolts unless there is a problem with the hinge. The hinge pins must be PARALLEL and IN LINE to work properly, and it is too easy to get these out of line and introduce serious stress to the door. Sorry for the length, but hope it covered your question and options. Enrique Scanlon Now that is the kind of advice I was looking for I'm just ashamed that I had to go to Z Car to get it.

Ok I'm about to give up on my driver's side door ever closing the way it is supposed too! The door has to be slammed very hard to get it closed then you have to practically break the door handle to open the damn thing! It does have a new rubber seal from Vic Brit on it but the door was very hard to close even before I put on the new seal. Tonight I took the door off and adjusted the hinges, no luck! I even put on another door from my parts car, no luck! As I said the door was hard to close and open when I bought the car so the new rubber may not be the problem. Any suggestions before I loose my mind on this one?

I'm 39 but I feel like I'm 69!!

My goodness those are spectacular!

I was wondering the same thing. A or C. I was about to order the 25' roll but I want to make sure before I do. My car came with a complete Vic Brit weather stripping kit new in a box. I put the rear hatch on without much of a problem but the driver's door is hideous! I will probably take that crap back off and get some of this stuff.

Daryl is this the seal that you bought? Also send me some pics of your painted Z!