Clifton

I'm with yo2001. It's for sure 60-1. I would find out the turbine trim. You could get your housing machined to use it's wheel. No way I would run a .48

http://allprooffroad.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=33

Clipping a wheel reduces it's effiency and creates lag. Doesn't take an ingenier to figure it out. You still have a 1.9" exducer. If you compared the lag to a stage 3 wheel with about a 2.25" exducer the lag will be similar but now it will flow a little more as the bore is larger. If clipping was all of that there would be 600 rwhp 2JZ Supras running small clipped wheels instead of P and Q trim wheels. Anyone with an N/A motor knows increasing the pipe diameter helps HP and adding a cam with more duration gives more top end with a little sacrifice in bottom end. It's similar to that.

You can make the same rwhp with n/a dished pistons as with turbo pistons. It's just that the chances of breaking a ring land from detonation are greater. As long as you don't let it knock you're ok. I wouldn't try 18 psi on 91 octane.

I have driven close to 500 miles with a bad vacumm booster so the lack of vacumm to stop a car in a driveway won't be a problem. I would never let a novice learn how to drive in my Z. If my engine had such low compression or was loose enough that it would roll in 1st gear I wouldn't be putting race brakes on it, but rebuilding the motor. If I had kids they wouldn't be playing jungle gym in my parked car on a incline. If a state requires a P brake then race brakes in the rear wouldn't be a good idea. Race brakes aren't for everyone I guess. The line lock does work as P brake though. I just usually find it easier to leave it in gear as I have been doing it with every car I have had for the last 18yrs.

N/A top ring land is thinner. That's the only weak link. Just don't let it knock. I'd have to disagree with more fuel. Too much and it just lowers power. May as well run it at 12-12.5:1 and lower the boost. I never run richer than 11.7:1 regardless of octane or boost, I aim for 11.8-12.2:1.

I'm not an employee, just a friend but AZC won't have a display as it isn't open to all vendors. AZC is just bringing a 350Z with a Wilwood brake kit on it. My friend "should" have his 7M 240 car together by then, hopefully. Should have the sleeves for the coil-overs ready in a week.

I have a 73' AZ car I'd let go cheap. It's pretty clean and has a good title. I can send pics if you are interested.

The factory parking brake isn't an emergency brake. If you had a brake failure in traffic and relied on the stock P brake to save you I think you would fair better jumping out of the car. I always park mine in gear, it's just easier. I did leave the line lock set for 8 hours to see if it would loose pressure. It held. I only use my lock in the summer when using the a/c to cool it down before getting in.

Wow. I would try and find an AZ car. The amount of time and work to get just the shell close to good would be enough to restore a rust free car.

From Garrett's web site. Clipped Turbine Wheels When an angle is machined on the turbine wheel exducer (outlet side), the wheel is said to be ‘clipped’. Clipping causes a minor increase in the wheel’s flow capability, however, it dramatically lowers the turbo efficiency. This reduction causes the turbo to come up on boost at a later engine speed (increased turbo lag). High performance applications should never use a clipped turbine wheel. All Garrett GT turbos use modern unclipped turbine wheels.

You won't notice the difference from the extra volume. I went from 2" pipe to 2.5 in / 2.75 out and a much larger intercooler. I wouldn't go larger than 2.5 into the cooler. I ran 2.5 in becuase that's what the turbo outlet is. I ran 2.75 out because that's what my TB was. My intercooler also has 3" in/out's, 4" thick core. Is your 450 hp goal crank or wheel? How much boost and what turbo?

I lost all of my pics but those few. It comes out just in front of the turbo flange. To do again I would just mount the WG under it like I did on the orange Z instead of routing it back up to the top. It used to come of of #6. after moving it back I went with the way it is now as there wasn't enough room.

I wouldn't clip. It just hurts spool. The exducer is still small so you don't gain anything. Garrett did tests and has an article on clipping. A standard wheel is too much of a mismatch as far as flow. If you are trying to keep the stock Z turbine housing it can be machined to fit any wheel, as far as I know up to a P trim. I like O trims. The inducer has a large diameter for good torque to turn the shaft and the exducer is about the same as a stg 3. I run that wheel my L28 and ran one on the 7M with a T58 before going with a T66/ P trim. Has great spool and makes good power. Most people try going bigger on the compressor and not the turbine side. That's why there are so few L28's that make over 400 rwhp.

I would skip the E and get a 60-1 or something with a newer GT 61mm wheel and atleast a stage 3 turbine min. 14-16 psi should get you 350 rwhp on a stock manifold. I made 358 or 368 rwhp at 15psi. Don't know how much that would be at your altitude.

They won't overheat. I've used the "street" pads for race. They just don't bite as good at higher temps but are still fine, especially with street tires.

I have pics of both cars wastegates on my webpage. http://www.geocities.com/clifton_ragland/Z.html .

I have done it both ways on the stock manifold. The first one came off the #6 runner. I moved the engine back 2" so I had to relocated it to the center of the manifold. I didn't notice a difference between the two. You won't gain anything by venting to atmosphere except obnoxious noise when it opens.

Sounds like your MC might be going. JohnC might be able to explain this better......Brake pads are design to have optimum bite in a certian temperature. Street pads work better at lower temps, race pads have more bit at higher temps. If you exced the working temp of the pad by getting the pads/rotors too hot the pads won't have the bite they should. You can push on the pedal as hard as you want but it won't slow the car. It is one of the worst fellings.

Your brake fade has nothing to do with a heat shield. There are a couple of bolt holes on the botom of the intake manifold it bolts to. The air moving through the manifold is moving fast so it doesn't absorb alot of heat but I'm sure it does pick up some. Any extra heat is not good. I run a heat shield on mine.

Neapco makes a Brtue force U joint for the half shaft U joint. It has a solid center but I have read that they aren't any stronger. I wouldn't start worring about going larger until you break one though. Is it a drag car?

I mounted my prop valve and line line on the passenger side tunel just behind the passenger seat. Looks clean and is still easy to reach the line lock the few times I do need it.

Don't know the fascination with keeping an L28, seems like alot of work when there are many fairly cheap and better alternatives (1JZ, RB25). Once you get the head done what are you going to do for manifolds and a front cover, and sealing of the valve cover to front cover.