Clifton

If it's not broke don't fix it. I made over 400 rwhp on an unknown junk yard L28 and 400 on a 7M with 180K miles, I know others have made alot on high mileage motors too. Ceramic coating IMO is a waste of money. It looks nice though. Did decide on your turbo specs yet?

Wow that's pricey.

I would get another mechanic. If he suspecs the AFM he should check it. The specs are listed. Maybe someone else with stock EFI knowledge can help though. I just read your other post. Your ECU is not OBD I or II. My .02... I Would put a timing light on it and rev it to see if it stays were it should or moves all over. A dial advance light would be better so you can check as it adds timing. Either way you will see if it's steady, increases with rpms or is all over. If it's knocking at 2K it's just over advanced, not detonation, especially if there really isn't any load, and no boost, I would guess more than 40*.

They're 8.5. I also don't think you'll get 10 psi out of it. Compression doesn't have that much to do with lag either. Atleast not enough to merit a high CR. If you can accept a low boost set up (5 psi) and it's free to borrow I would run it. Using a NA ecu that doen't retard timing or add fuel under boost would also be a problem.

A ported head would have no effect at idle. There isn't enough air moving through the head to make a difference with a throttle plate that is just barely cracked open. A vacuum leak and timing, valve or ignition would effect it though. I think you may have missed something during reassembly.

The stock HG and bolts are fine. That's what I run in mine.

Looks like external pumps cost a little more, I guess that $137 isn't that bad. 73TPIZ... Your link to your gallery requires a password to view.

I got mine on Ebay for $85. It is an intank pump though. I'm sure they could get external.

I got mine through http://paradiseracing.com/. It's a Toyota shop but they are small so he will order stuff in, he did one mine. He was also the cheapest.

50 gph would be enough but depending on turbo it will take 10-18 psi so that plus 40psi. If it is rated at atleast 45 GPH at 50-60 psi it would be enough. I would get the 255l one though, if you have the HP addtiction 300 rwhp will only tide your craving for a short while then you'll need to upgrade again The 255 one is good for an easy 500rwhp.

A stcok regulator is a rising rate. 1 psi per 1 psi of boost. If you need addtional fuel under boost and aren't going to run alot of boost they will help IF you are lean under boost. Baastad(sp?) uses on here one.

I had a NAPS Z18et head, factory turbo, and manifolds that was sent over from Japan (I used it on my Z24 D21) that also had a twin butterfly like yours. Never seen one on an L28 though.

If you decide to use a MLS head gasket I would look into a Cometic. They are alot cheaper than HKS and the same quailty.

For bulbs I tried Hella bulbs side by side with a no name bulb, both were 55/65 and there wasn't a visible difference in brightness. If you have to buy the bulbs seperatly I would get the higher wattage bulbs. I would either run the 55/100's or the 80/100's. If the 80/100's are adjusted properly they are fine.

Best bang for the buck would be a MBC as you can make one for under $10. I'ver heard the HKS EVC's are good and cheap. The newerProfic's aren't as accurate. This is second hand from MKIV guys. I run a MBC though.

27* is alot of timing. I think you have it backwords though. Your 24* is with 13-14 and 27* is with 14-15. I would and do run less timing and more boost.

You don't need an X pipe. Use a straight through muffler, unlike the Flowmaster junk.

A T4B H trim would be one step smaller than a 60-1 as far as flow. 60-1 is not an E wheel, it also flows alot more than any E, as does an H. How many blades does it have? I run a O trim/.69 on my L28 and did run an O trim/ tang .70 hot side on my 7M. I think it is pretty good for overall power without sacraficing to much spool.

SDS makes one as does Haltech.

There isn't an E trim wheel that will put out 55lbs. It sounds like a 60-1 if it's the hi-fi, standard wheel is 57lbs. It would have more potential than any E wheel if you run enough boost to use it. I would also skip the $$$ options, wheel maybe the polished housing.

If the turbine wheel is oily it's the turbine seal. It is easily replaced. I had a bad smoke issue at idle that was from that.