Clifton

Man I wish the 4" thick ones were 17.5" long too. It looks like 2 90* elbows is all you'll need. The 24" core barely fit. I had to cut the elbows, trim the hood hinges and open up the core support vent holes alot and it still rubs.

My 71' has a little over 400 rw torque, the 73' close to 500 ft/lbs. I don't run strut bars and haven't had any problems. A unibody is stiffer than most framed cars. People may recomend this or that but IMO most of it is not nessacery.

The more boost the more turbine pressure it takes to make the boost. The extra back pressure will eventually overcome a soft spring and cause the wastegate to open. I run pressure to the top of the wastegate. It will still reach a point that it will loose boost with a too soft spring. The only way to avoid it is on an external wastegate. Use another spring to pull on the WG flapper. That will hold whatever you want. Guys that run 30+ with an external WG run a 20+ springs. No way around it. Larry at SP has completely removed the signal line from a few wastegates and let the turbo make as much as the spring would let it make on the dyno. datsunan......The pic is of the 7M 240. I run the same setup on the L28 Z but didn't have a handy pic.

A 6 psi spring won't hold 20 psi even with a boost controller. I had an 8 psi spring and it held up to 18 psi but anything more and I lost boost as the rpms went up. I went with a 18 psi spring and it holds steady to 24-25 psi, the most I have tried so far. I would run the stiffest spring you can. I will never run less than 18 so that's why I am using the 18 psi spring. I also ran a flex on the wastegate outlet. It makes exhaust installs and removal alot easier. I got it from an RV shop, it's really cheap. It's just flexable exhaust 1.5"

It's only the pump, no screen or wire plug. I would spend the extra $20 and get the install kit to make it easier to install. I know 87-88 300ZX turbos have intank pumps, I would think they are all the same but not 100% sure. You don't need an adjustable or aftermarket regulator.

The battery is to just start the car, not to supply power when the alt is charging. Your alt may be good but obviously can't supply the amps. I would see if someone can varry the load and run it up to 90 amps.

Check Eaby. I got a new 255hp (in-tank) for about $85

It sits a bit lower now. I lowered the rear coil over collar as low as I could with out touching the tire. I need to update some of the pics on there. I took those right after I finnished it. Even on the hardest bumps it does not rub.

It's only 3/8". 1/16" larger than stock.

-6 Plenty for 550's. I am still using the stock 5/16" fuel line. I have checked the pressure at WOT at it does not drop. I am maxing out 8 450cc injectors so I'm using quite a bit of fuel.

Big turbo or small, I slowly raise the boost till I here light knock and then back it off 2-3 psi.

275/40-17. The right offset is key. You do need coil overs with 8" tall springs though.

You need low impeadance. If measure the resistance on your injectors it will either be 2-3 ohms or 12-13.

A 17x9 with a 275mm tire will fit in the rear without a flare.

When I put the big intercooler in I used aluminum to try to save some weight, intercooler was 15 lbs heavier. The cost isn't much different and most of the peices came polished. I got my tubing from Ebay. I got the 2.75" from here http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQsassZvertexnowQQsojsZ0 I just called them and ordered it. It' s thin wall, .080" The 2.5" stuff from this guy, This was a little thinner wall. http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQsassZdelubozpartsQQsojsZ0If you buy the bends you won't need very much straight as there is quite a bit on the legs. I have always used steel in the past and rust has never been an issue. It is not very humid here though.

I've only used internally oiled cams with no spray bar and have never had any problems. Modern cars do not use spray bars either, atleast none that I have seen. Scrap the spray bar.

Fast spool and 400rwhp on an L28 don't go together. There will be some added lag with a larger turbo, no way around it. If you are in the power band it isn't even noticable. Ball bearing turbos are over rated in reducing spool.

I would use the Supra one over that. Look at the Spearco and other bar and plate designs. I don't know how much room you have but if you go with a cross flow it will need to be taller than that. The Supra one and this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33742&item=7954536928&rd=1 have alot more tubes than the one you posted. I would use this one that Z-gad found over that one or this one, especially if you don't have alot of room or this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33742&item=7953816813&rd=1. They are massive though. Barely fit in my Z. Look at the core.

If you get one get a good sized one. Alot of people sell cores that are only 6" tall like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33742&item=7953662718&rd=1 . Ok for a turbo sprint

Parts are actually as easy to get as Garret parts, at least in AZ. They are easier to work on too. No clips holding the bearings in like Garrets. They are just to small. Upgrading them is pointless though.

CT26 is about as big as a TO4B S trim wheel, the turbine wheel is a tad larger than the T3 wheel. You would be better off with a stock 280-300zx turbo or a GN turbo. CT26's can't be easily clocked like Garret stuff, they also use a different flange and tend to become very unreliable around 18 psi+.

A To4R (67mm wheel) is huge compared to your first choice. The GT35R compressor wheel is now used by alot of turbo shops as it is a little better than the 60-1. I think the T3/TO4R is a little big on the cold side and small on the hot side. I would go full T4, that way you have the option of changing turbos if you ever wanted, there are alot more options when going bigger. Here's a few links T4 http://www.precisionturbo.net/turbochargers-display.php?company_id=101795&category_id=3027 T3/4 http://www.precisionturbo.net/turbochargers-display.php?company_id=101795&category_id=3026

No way is there a 3 psi drop at 9 psi with a 7M. I used 2 autometer gauges when I tested mine. Regardless if you can make it fit there are 24x4x12" intercoolers on Ebay. The cores are just like spearco and any other tube/fin design, just made in Chiwain so they are inexpensive. I managed to get one to fit in my 240.

Hmm, I used one on both my Z's and made over 400 rwhp. I ran 24 psi through one with no problems. The pressure drop is not as bad as people say. I had a 1 psi drop at 14 or 17psi, can't remeber the boost I was running when I tested it. Not being crossflow is not bad. Most Bell intercoolers are not either. The MKIV coolers do flow more though.