Clifton

Arizona Z Car has an FJ20 with trans. http://www.arizonazcar.com/cars

I don't know what trans you are running but you can run a Spicer 1310 on the rear. I just did it on mine. Any drive shaft shop can convert it. It's alot larger than the stock one. I am running a Toyota trans so I don't know if there is a slip yoke to convert the Nissan front.

Check the voltage of the O2 sensor when plugged in and up to temp and disconnected. Stoich is around .45v. I know Toyota uses a sheilded cable on there O2 wire. If the insulation becomes brittle, cracks and it grounds to the shielded wire the ECU will not read the voltage. I had this happen on mine and the a/f were in the 10-11:1 range until I found the short. If I unpluged it it would show voltage, the second it was plugged in it would show zero. Just a thought. The cold start valve on 7M's are just used to start. It isn't on when the motor is running. I don't know about L28's but I'm sure it would be the same.

This is correct. If in doubt just T into the feed line and run a cheap gauge to your windsheild ofr a quick test. I have done many times when I know it's lean but not sure if it's the injectors or pump that are maxed out.

I couldn't live without mine. If you have a way to adjust your fuel they are pretty much a must.

Although it's not a ZX, I made one for my 240Z out of 2" X .250" aluminum plate. I doubt you are going to find anything of the shelf that will fit the way it needs to. Alos it needs to ne IIRC within 6" of the front U joint. If you break a rear bad things won't happen. I just found this out.

If you can find some one that can Tig weld, it wouldn't be that much. I would call around before starting plan B.

If you want to remove material I would only do it where it would be benificial. Like unshrounding the valves. You should be able to get it welded and then smooth it back down. That's what I would do if it was mine.

Did you get the Supra injector plugs? they are different than most other plugs. The Mitsu 450cc injectors use the same plug though.

I've searched and some have used a 2-2-1819 for the LSD companion flange with the 2" pilot/10mm bolts. I didn't see that # on the Dana or Neapco site. I did see a 2-2-1309 (Dana PN) though that I think will work. Has any one used this part to run a 1310 U joint? I know I can run the 2-2-899-1 but don't want to change the flange and run smaller 8mm bolts.

I would just convert yours to a proper baffled/intank pump. Pumps are cheaper and I NEVER have fuel issues. Get a donner tank. A MKIII Supra or Z31 Z has the perfect hight and good baffles/sumps. I used a MKIII tank. There are pics of my tank on my site. I would post a pic but it's temporarily down again.

.15 volt drop is nothing. Is your alternator working/reg working. I would be more concerned with the 12.2 volts. Unless that is with the engine off.

I just broke a POS Neapco driveshaft U joint and trashed the driveshaft:evil:. Luckily the front joint was still a Toyota part and pretty big. Seems people have had better luck with 30 year stock parts. I need to find one with stock joints, I have found GMB (made in Japan) but I also saw a NTN joint. What brand or markings are on the factory stuff?

With a little fender stretching a 10" will fit in the front. I did this on my white/red 240. A 17x9" will fit in the rear with out a flare if you use an 8" spring, did this on the orange one.

L28 complete with stock manifolds, SU's, and A/C compressor + 5 spd 523lbs 7MGTE complete with turbo and A/C compressor + R154(125lbs alone) 640lbs Above weighed on intercomp scales. 1JZGTE 645 lbs for the engine and trans. Above from archive Celica list

I only have 91 octane here too. I did other things too when I added it, thicker HG, cams, and 24 psi. So I did have to adjust the fuel, but I am always doing that anyways trying to keep it at 11.7-12.2. I left the timing at the stock setting.

I'm running this 5 lug setup http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html

The benifit of meth/water is just to help cool the charge. Unless you are solely running meth/h2O it doesn't really need to be mapable but I guess if you can. I run a 5gpm and 10gpm nozzle through 2 solinoids. Pump always has voltage if the key is on. The only way I can tell they come on is the through the "on" lights. It is smooth enough you can't tell. I also don't run lube as.

The air coming out of the turbo is hotter than the air under the hood, especially if you are running decent boost. Even the IC to TB pipe will not absorb enough heta to change the temp of the air inside the pipe. The air is moving so fast it doesn't have enough time to change temp. I larger intercooler would be better.

If it's going to have a turbo I would only use a straight through muffler like the Ultraflo. Any back pressure after the turbo just slows it's spooling. I would also use 3", there is no drawback to going larger with a turbo and you won't have any regrets later.

Good choice. You'll be happy you went with it, especially if you run 15 or more psi.

Still doesn't matter. The restriction at idle is still a nearly closed throttle plate.

I only sugest a timing issue as you said it was knocking. It may be something else. Another possible cause could be severly worn distributor bushings. That would also cause the problems you describe. You could check that yourself. Just pull the cap and wiggle the shaft. It will have a slight amount of play, about 1/32" - 1/16" roughly. If it moves alot that's a problem.