Clifton

Full T4 on stock manifold with welded on T4 flange. V trim compressor, O trim turbine, .69 a/r

You want the 7MGTE. The heads are excatly the same, different cams. N/A has more duration. The n/a has higher compression, not good for turbo. You can use the n/a distributor inthe GTE head or use EDIS as 81na ZX said. I'm looking into this or AEM or something, tired of a 6600 rpm rev limit and AFM.

I run an HKS 225mm 10lb flywheel with a 4 puck disk. A 225 mm clutch will hold whatever you want if you increase the clamp load and or disk material. I wouldn't get to hung up on the Exedy, Asco, Nissan name. It's just OE replacement parts and none will hold alot of torque. Don't know what kind of power you have. Unless the disk material has been changed or spring pressure replacement parts are basically all the same. IMO $450 for just a flywheel is alot.

The turbo manifold will bolt up. I don't know if you can blow through SU's though. The old SU kits were suck through. You could run a 4 barrel or twin DGV Webers and blow through them. Used down draft Webers are cheap. You can get plenums for either that bolt on. Don't expect to run alot of boost on an L24/26 though. In the long run you would be better off and happier finding a ZXT in a JY and getting the EFI, long block, and turbo though.

They will for the complete kit. I rode in his S13 with the suspension and his Z32. The Z was set on 7, don't know about the SX. There was plenty of dampening, The Z32 felt a little softer that a Z32 turbo with the factory stuff set on sport which is pretty firm but not to much for a DD, can't say what the higher settings are like though. A friend is in the process of putting it on his 240Z. He still has to finnish the 7M swap though before it is drivable, maybe 3 weeks, he has until the West Coast Nationals. I'll most pics once he gets it on.

It uses the same threaded strut body as the 240SX kit http://www.arizonazcar.com/240sxbrakes.html. They have 15 way adjustability. You cut the Z strut tube and use a threaded sleeve that is welded on the Z strut tube.

AZC is working on a different/new set up too.

I ran a 2.5" without a muffler withg the stock hotside, still have it in my backyard. When I went full T4 I did the exhaust (3") without a muffler but ended up running one. The larger the turbo the louder it will be.

I use ecentric nylon bushings in the rear of my 73' to adjust camber, I thibk they are G-machine. AZC and I think MSA sells them. They have them for the front too. On my 71' I slotted the upper mount in the rear.

I second the bearings. Worn bearings will cause whine. Gears don't wear out, just break.

Do you know the a/r on the hotside, should be stamped on it. Curious to know what other people run. I'm running a P trim too, with a .70 divided hotside.

We need a full boost roll on vid. please:mrgreen: That's got to makes some noise when the WG opens. What's the spec on the turbo, how much boost are you running?

Thanks for posting this. Your research has saved me form the which brand is better problem. I just used the Mar-Hyde Tal-Strip II spray. I can't believe how good it worked. I didn't even have to scraped, just hosed it off.

I know alot of people replace bearings but if the races are not grooved why replace them? If you are replacing the bearings I wouldn't go oem. 100% mark up isn't worth it. Autozone, Checker, ect. for bearings and seals or I would get the MM hubs.

I didn't read all of the post but have you checked compression? I know the N/A's have higher compression, but also a different head. Could have an N/A block? I've seen alot of talk about people (MKIV guys) knowing there exact timing, and timing being pulled. I assume they are using an OBD scanner.

Wow, that's pretty good for an N/A motor.

Wrong. Z32 turbo are 370cc, but they are side feed.

What cam did you use, stock turbo? Also why stop at 5600, it is still making power after the little dip.

370's will work, so will 450's but if you want to do it only once and or going stand alone don't get just enough fuel. Get 550's or bigger. I am running 550's on my L28 with SDS and on the 7M, 6 550's and 2 additonal 450's. Your 300 rwhp goal could change if you get the itchy boost bug. A bigger turbo on race gas and 25-30 psi you will need more fuel than 450's will provide. It doesn't hurt to go bigger than you need. JSK has O ring fuel rails pretty cheap and O ring injectors are alot easier to find in the larger sizes.

Everyone I've seen have been 1/8 npt. If it's a standard shaft T4 it is the same bearing housing as a T3.

Wow, 25*C / 75*F is Arizona temps in the winter. I ran a 280ZX N/A radiator in 110-115* AZ heat with AC, don't know what that is in C* but it's melt your skin hot. It did get a little warm so I am running an AZC radiator now but 110* is alot hotter than 75*F. If it's in the car now and it's working good I wouldn't worry.

Isn't Norway on the cold side. I know you might have problem here (Arizona) in the summer with the heat.

Why complicate things and add a another pump? Pulling a pan isn't that hard.

300zxt injectors are the same as 280zxt. get some Ford 370's if you are on the stock turbo and don't plan to go bigger.