David K

They can coat your entire exhaust too, per their webpage. $12 for every foot of 3" and under pipe. Sweet!

Sweet! Ill get at replacing that lower hose tommorow. I remember looking at a z parts supplier a while back and they actually had a stainless steel pipe for z32's to prevent suckage during high rpms.

I have a set of turbo head bolts from MSA i will possibly use to put together my build. Im not sure, as i was also thinking of using head studs. Ive been a big fan of studs ever since i used them to attach my header on the black z a while back. I just kept tightening and tightening, and i got the header on there real nice. I got curious today and took out an old set of head bolts that came from a very old warped engine. I took turns dropping each one of them from my chest line. A few of them made the same sound, the others all had a sound of their own. Some vibrated long, and the few others made a dinging sound on drop and went quiet. About 5 of the old head bolts sounded like the new turbo headbolts i have. Does this mean some of the head bolts i was experimenting with are bad? I understand they may expand over time, and during overheating situations. Should they all sound the same upon dropping them? Thankfully my turbo head bolts havent been in an overheating situation, and i know they are ok for use in a rebuild.

The fact is that the crossflow head is near impossible to find, so whoever wants to use one, has to either fabricate it, or spend lots of $ to modify an existing head to work...and we are talking about thousands. Then you get to the performance gain you get with a crossflow head over the nissan L head. Its tom foolery to even start fishing those waters, IMO. For at least 5% the $ you spend completing a crossflow prototype, you could completely solve the cooling issues with the manifolds being so close together on the L head. For those who stand by the crossflow head, show me some #'s to prove that its worth all the time, money, and effort to re-invent the wheel. There was a reason for discontinuation, and still is a reason for non production of a cross flow head for the L series engine. Its plain as day that its basically not even worth it. I hope this post doesnt steer anybody away from following their dreams of producing a crossflow head.

Long thread in the making. Lets start here. Ive had 2 actual road worthy 280zx's. The black one was the first, and the silver one is my current second. The black one never seemed to have a problem with overheating. Head gaskets, yes, but thats not the problem here. The black Z actually read 1/4 on the temp gauge on the freeway in the daytime, and it almost dropped down to the left side of the temp gauge on a cold night. It also ran rich. Faulty sender unit? Faulty gauge? The black zx always had decent power. I get a silver Z and ditch the black one due to rust. I swap over the 3 core radiator from the black z, install new water pump, new hoses, new thermostat, and flush on top of that. I did all of that as a precaution to rid of possible problems the car may have from the previous owner. Still overheating, and on a hot day, it runs 3/4 on the temp gauge. While on the hwy, the temp raises as i open throttle.... When i exit the hwy and drive streets, the temp goes down to about halfway, back to normal. Faulty sender unit? Faulty gauge? Its driving me nuts, and usually i wont post and make a big deal about general maintanance, but this has me stumped and irritated. I have a few possible explainations for the hot gauge id like to go over. The L series exhaust manifold is long and can heat up the engine bay signifigantly. The thermostat housing and temperature sender unit are right above #1 cylinder exhaust manifold corner. I feel that this creates enough heat to send faulty temperatures to the temp gauge. Poor design IMO. I also think that if the exhaust manifold is loose, the thermostat housing and temp sender unit get a case of 'heat soak'. It really irritates me. After parking the car, and coming back in a short period of time, the temp gauge is almost at its max! Here are a few ideas to fix this mystery problem. I plan on fabricating a heat sheild for the thermostat housing that will bolt up to the first stud for the exhaust manifold on the head. Thoughts? Should i make it thick, or should i make it thin? Any other ideas to rid my 280zx of its cooling problems? If my heat sheild idea does not work with me to cool down the car, errrrrr, give me a more accurate reading, how in the world do i fix my overheating problems? Ive done everything. Ive gotten the point where i have done so much to prevent the overheating, that i am ready to take investigating and fabricating steps to solve it

This is true. My buddy and i got a free brand new nissan L24. When we were getting ready to drop it in his 240, we noticed the pan wasnt going to clear the crossmember. So we take it back out, drop the pan, and stare. We had to get rid of the pan, and get the Z pan. Then the pickup was in the wrong spot. So we then went to a hardware store and bought some tubing. We then cut the pickup at the block, welded the new tubing inline, and relocated the pickup. Hehehe and it looks pretty sweet too.

Cyrus, Tim240z just put up his Z's for sale in the buy/sell/trade forum. Ive seen his 240z and its most nice! Scoop it up quick!

I always look foward to your reads, Grumpy. Lots and lots of info, thank you.

Wow guys, 13.1@108 in the Z31. Imagine that in a 240z, what ive been saying all along.

Haha Davy, but i honestly do think this is a reoccuring problem, lol. I posted my story on the SoCal SE-R website, and a nice young woman, one who our fellow hybrid member Auxilary knows (middy), replied with this: Hmmm, same problem, different Exploder.

Ive heard about this for the last few days, and this afternoon they had a live feed from the news chopper....Great White sharks in abundance about 150 yards off our beaches, just hanging out. And the other day a fisherman caught a Mako Shark when he was fishing off the coast. Something wierd going on out in the ocean. Im not going boogie boarding anytime soon. Im always lucky enough to get sucked out on a rip tide. Been wayyyyyyyyyyyy out many many times, just laying on my board, thinking about sharks, and holding my legs out of the water, lol.

I got a call 2 nights ago from a guy who found my # on a Z site. He told me his roomate moved out 4 months ago and left her 1972 240z in his garage, he now owns it, and he needs it gone by the next day because his landlord will junk it. So i call Jim (pipelayer on this site) and tell him the scenario. Needless to say, we were there that next morning to pick up the lady. Well it was a nice score! Jim (pipelayer) came from San Bernardino with a 1996 Ford Explorer and a trailer, more on the Ford in a bit. We met up at 10am in Long Beach where the free Z was. When we got there, we were shocked at the condition of this 240z. The interior is in very good condition. The seats are perfect and the door panels are perfect, and the dash has has 2 hairline cracks in it, also very nice. The exterior has some primered panels. The engine was in excellent condition. I took the valve cover off and the cam lobes have 0 marks on them and they were as smooth as a new cam, and the timing chain was very tight. There are new parts galore in this Z! So we hook it up on the trailer, and head towards the 405 fwy. We stop and to get gas and lemonade, and we notice the Ford Explorer was leaking tranny fluid, and it was leaking pretty bad. In the 10 minutes we stopped at the gas station, it left a puddle about the size of a coffee cup spill. So we put some tranny fluid in, and hit the fwy. We decide to take the 91 east because my friend says the 60 is packed. We take the 405-605-91 east. We pull off in Cerritos, because the shitty ford is smoking bad. Fluid spraying out from the front tranny seal, on to the exhaust. We put some more tranny fluid in, and talk on our cell phones as we hit the freeway again, and decide to go all the way to Corona before pulling off again. Stupid fords. I had a hood and windshield full of Type F tranny fluid. We pull off in corona, i get out of the Z, step into 100*f weather.......damn. Take care of biz, then hit the fwy again, pull off in Riverside, take care of biz again, try to hit the fwy again. Bad idea, so we get off the fwy in East Riverside, and take the streets all the way to San Bernardino. We end at his house at 4pm.......Worth it? Yes it was. I gave the Z to Jim for working so hard throughout the day....he earned it, plus i dont have the space and the time to get it on the road. Check out my site for pics. http://socalz.org/bigjim I also added some pics of Jim's 1970 Nova, if anyone cares to view. Its a nice Nova, and i want one. I consumed 2 gallons of water in the course of the trip. It was supposed to be 1 hour to his house, and ive driven it many many times since ive lived out there before. 6 hours.......#%#%# dk

try this place, email them to see if they have it. http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/drewrep/HOMEPAGE.HTM#catlist go to 'racing books', it will be 13-103

I failed to see the part about rubber insulators.

You are right, they should have been cut with rounded corners. The buyer could always do that themselves, but for $295, sheesh they should have been done right in the first place.

If people, some here on the website, are going to spend time and money on fabricating new heads, then why dont they do something like make our existing head taller? Bigger ports could be had due to more room, and the stock manifolds and equipment could still be used.

I found this on an Australian z club website. More info would be nice, if anybody knows anything. I dont get what benefit a cross flow head would have. The air is let in the chamber, the valve closes, the air is squished, it is ignited, the valve opens, the air is pushed out, and it happens all over again. Now since the air flow does not maintain a straight air path due to the air being, lets say....'temporarily stopped', then what benefit would a cross flow head have over an L series head? I dont see how it could be any better, since the air flow still follows the same path once the compression stroke occurs, and what direction the intake flow comes from really doesnt matter as long as it gets in the cylinder smoothly, and the valve closes. Now i understand about the intake manifold temperature issue, but if you are able to solve that, how can a cross flow head possibly have a performance benefit? Ive come to the conclusion the cross flow head is a waste of time and money, IMHO.

Thanks for the video! I added that to my "bad ass z's" folder

I putting the m30 idea on the shelf until funds are availble. The cheapest m30 system i found was over $500. They are next to impossible to find in the junkyards also. Ill be doing a complete write up on installing z31 components into L28 f/i systems.

I do like the European wire wheels.

Ahhhh TPI, memories. Even seeing the parts make me cry. See sig pic

280zx weights what, like 2800-3000? About that....

TC Rod and Sway Bar. Also the mounts for the rear crossmember.

I was thinking of a more durable material because the bushings that i have on my Z now were only changed 1 year ago, and they are already cracking to the point they are going to fall off.

He bolted a rice spoiler to the existing stock spoiler! Hahaha, geeez. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2421308344&category=6398