zcarnut

OK. I’ll go first. (Car is a 1974 260Z) Front Rotors: 1984 Z31 front vented Calipers: 1990 Toyota 4x4 SW12 Misc: Using 240 hubs with custom spacer to mount rotor Rear Rotors: 1984 Z31 rear solid Calipers: 1983 200SX Bracket: 1983 Maxima Master Cylinder Nissan Hardbody Truck 1" diameter Booster: 1983 280ZX

I looked into this a few years ago... In a nutshell, the Z31 flywheel will not bolt on to an L-series crankshaft. The bolt mounting flange of the Z31 flywheel is not the same. The method of centering the flywheel with respect to the crankshaft is different. Too bad, as the Z31 flywheel is lighter than the stock L-series one.

Your 260Z tach needs a “trigger” connection to the negative side terminal of the ignition coil. This is done via the solid blue colored wire that was part of the 260Z’s ignition coil wiring harness. Check for this. BTW, what coil are you using? 260Z or the ZX one?

I assume that you are referring to the “fast idle” adjustment arm. I recall using a pair of Vice-Grips and making the adjustment with the carbs still on the engine. The factory manual recommends bending this arm so that each throttle blade is opened .025". Measure the gap between the edge of the throttle blade and the throat with a [long] feeler gauge after you have lifted the piston up for clearance. Of course this is done with the engine off and with the air filter housing removed for access. You can also make the adjustment more accurately with the engine running by using an air flow meter to equalize the air flow of each carb while maintaining a suitable fast idle rpm. 1500 rpm should be OK.

I got an email from him on 9/28. My reply did not bounce.

You got the CV axle for the the R180 diff (you can tell from the application listed in the eBay link). It sounds like you have the R200 diff. The spline shaft has a different diameter.

I've used Pierce Manifolds for years for all my Weber parts. They are located in Gilroy (between San Jose and Monterey). http://www.piercemanifolds.com/

JSK Innovations http://www.jskinnovations.com/ used to sell a _spacer_ that would allow you to use the 1984 vented 300ZX rotors with the 240Z hubs and the 4x4 Toyota calipers but has discontinued this item although I am not sure why. Modern Motorsport Ltd sells a spacer but he does not identify the rotor but I assume that it is the 1984 300ZX: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=48 Motorsport Auto now sells a spacer kit for the 1984 300ZX rotors but it appears you have to buy the calipers from them as well: http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=24-5705&Category_Code=PBC13 Motorsport _Auto_ also sells the brackets that allow used of the 1985-88 Maxima rear calipers with the 82-83 280ZX rotors: http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=24-5581&Category_Code=PBC12

This site has some interesting info: http://users.exis.net/~audserv/Injection.html I don't think the author used a Nissan ECU, but maybe the resistor references are the same.

You could also try the 2.4 liter 810/Maxima (1977-84) AFM.

Snopes has debunked this rumor: http://www.snopes.com/rumors/pentagon.htm

Has anyone else seen the Valvoline television commercial that has _two_ first generation Z cars in it? I saw it last night at a restaurant. However the volume was muted and I was some twenty feet from the tv set. I could not tell what vintage (240, 260 or 280) z car they were. They had a camera shot of the Z’s engine compartment and the final shot was a white and a red Z car pictured with their owner in his driveway. Very cool! I believe it was a spot for Valvoline’s MaxLife oil.

Here's a picture of the early clutch slave cylinder. However, the spring is not shown.

The early (up until 1973) Z car clutch slave cylinders were manually adjusted via a threaded pushrod. The throw out bearing fork lever had a hole in it for the push rod to fit through and a return spring was connected from the clutch slave cylinder to the throw out bearing fork lever. The later clutch slave cylinders were self adjusting and Nissan did away with the threaded pushrod and the return spring. The cylinders pictured are the self adjusting type.

How about this? http://www.bryanf.com/index.html

Yet another reason to own a Nissan. Lets us “backyard mechanics” do our own diagnosis without having to use a PC or go to a dealer for service. TVS = Throttle Valve Switch. Senses Idle Position (throttle closed) and Full Throttle (throttle open or almost open). Sometimes people interchange the terms TVS and TPS. What was happening on your ‘75 is this: Under deceleration conditions the fuel injection electronic control unit (ECU) shuts off the injections. This is done mainly for economy and it also helps to reduce emissions. The ECU uses the Idle Position switch to accomplish this and also the rpm of the engine. Under normal working conditions the injectors are shut off when the engine rpm is above 2800 and the throttle is closed. Below 2800 rpm the injectors begin working again. So, if the ECU reads the TVS as being always in the Idle Position then the deceleration algorithm prevents operation over 2800 rpm. The presence of water in the TVS completes the circuit even if the TVS is mechanically OK. Even water in the TVS connector (entering through cracks in the boot rubber) will produce this condition. I do not wish to belabor the issue, but what I are trying to point out is that your 1975 Z did not have a “limp-home” mode. Limp-home or fail-safe mode algorithms can be very complicated as the ECU has to “substitute” the missing information from a particular sensor. This is far easier to do with digital ECU’s (using lookup tables) than with the analog ECU’s that were used in the 1970's and early 1980's. The 1975 Nissan ECU was developed under licence from Bosch is almost a direct copy of a Bosch ECU and it is well known that “limp-home” modes did not exist in the early Bosch systems. Limiting the engine rpm in “limp-home” mode is done only to alert the driver that there is a problem with the engine that requires attention. Otherwise the driver would continue to ignore the CHECK ENGINE lamp. The fail-safe modes are good enough that the engine would run satisfactory. Most people will not have a vehicle serviced until it is almost completely inoperative.

I've done two of the Maxima alternator conversions and all I had to do was use a spacer under an early V-pulley to position it correctly. Yes, the Maxima pulley is smaller in diameter. That's how you can get more current out of an alternator at idle speeds. It's just more wear on the alternator bearings and bushes. BTW, alternators can spin at over 18,000 rpm.

I do not own a Pathfinder, but I have a V6 Hardbody truck of the same vintage with the VG30E engine. Yes, the VG30E motor has a “limp-home” or a fail safe mode which allows engine operation in the manner you described. However, several items can result in this mode. A defective mass air flow meter, a defective crankshaft position sensor, a defective throttle position sensor (TPS), a defective ECSS module, etc. The factory service manual has a complete diagnoses section where you can read the blinking LED’s on the ECM and determine what the trouble codes are. This will identify the problem sensor. There are way too many codes to list in this short reply. If you want to fix this yourself then I would strongly suggest to get the factory manual. Yes, the CHECK ENGINE lamp should be on. I bet the previous owner removed the bulb. The CHECK ENGINE lamp should always light up when the engine is off but the key is in the ignition position (bulb check). If you want additional assistance check out the below forum: http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php P.S. Your 1975 Z car did not have a limp-home mode. Not be able to rev past 2750 rpm was almost always the result of water entering the TPS.

Another site: http://www.datsport.com/Adjustable_rear_cross_member.html http://www.datsport.com/Datsun_510_1600_rear_suspension.html But he's also very expensive and they are located in Australia.

I found this 510 rear camber article at: http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_crossmember_slotting.html Would you expect to slot a ZX in the same locations using similar slot lengths? Another question: How do you guarantee that the lower control arm will not move around in the slot? I'm surprised that just tightening the bushing bolts will prevent movement.

I'm in need of a rear camber kit for a 280ZX. The kit the Motorsport Auto used to sell is NLA. Any leads would be appreciated! I looked at the K-MAC kit but they want $340 for it. I'm hoping to do better than that price. Thanks in advance!

Use the Raybestos site for brake specs. Better info: http://www.raybestos.com/catalog/prod.html From the above site: NISSAN Z31 300ZX Rear Rotors 1984-1985 Turbo and 1986-1986 All: NO. OF HOLES & bOLT CIRCLE DIA: 5-4 1/2 inch ROTOR OVERALL HEIGHT: 1 55/64 inch BRAKE DIAMETER: 11 27/64 inch SOLID DISC 1984-1985 Except Turbo: NO. OF HOLES & BOLT CIRCLE DIA 4-4 1/2 inch ROTOR OVERALL HEIGHT 1 55/64 inch BRAKE DIAMETER 11 27/64 inch SOLID DISC 1987-1989 All: NO. OF HOLES & BOLT CIRCLE DIA 5-4 1/2 ROTOR OVERALL HEIGHT 2 19/64 inch BRAKE DIAMETER 11 7/64 inch VENTED DISC

Did you install the correct bushings? The 240Z, 260/280Z, and the 280ZX rack bushings are all slightly different.

You can use the 1984 300ZX rear rotor with the Maxima caliper. You have to use the caliper support part of the 300ZX rear caliper with the ‘82-‘83 280ZX caliper. The 300ZX caliper support piece positions the caliper further away from the hub centerline due to the larger diameter of the 300ZX rotor. However, to make this work the diameter of the 300ZX rotor must be decreased slightly from 290mm to 284mm. But this is still larger than the ‘82-‘83 280ZX rotor. The larger diameter of the 300ZX rotor increases brake torque and reduces any interference between the caliper and the CV axle flanges.

The fittings on the bottom go to a small chamber that is in between the float bowls and the accelerator pump supply chamber. So, you would be removing some heat from the fuel in the float bowls. If you have a return line you do not need a pressure regulator. Simply adjust the pressure by placing a restriction in the return line. I used a plug with a .050" hole on my Webers. Start out with a small hole and gradually increase the diameter to obtain the desired pressure. This is the same method that Nissan used to set the fuel pressure on the stock SU's.